Dread's Fury(Mega)

Dreadstar

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  1. Fury
Well,the upgrades are coming quicker than I thought,as I just get my hex adaptors through. One thing though,if you decide to follow suit,you will need to replace the front plastic hexes with alloy ones,otherwise the adaptors bind on the hubs. I'm fortunate in that I already had some bolt-on type alloy hexes which were a bit thicker than the plastic ones. You will also require an 8mm hex wrench to tighten up the axle bolts,as the trusty little 4-way is too small.

DSCN0829_zpsrumvmtxf.jpg

[DOUBLEPOST=1462540191][/DOUBLEPOST]Took her out for a test run,just to see how she would handle with the 1/8th wheels. I now have a problem that I haven't had before,she pops wheelies. If I accelerate just too quickly,the whole front end comes up and the parachute effect flips her on her back. The traction from these tyres is terrific,certainly on tarmac and I already know how they fare on grass too. I made a slight mistake with the battery,in that I put it in the rearmost position instead of the front,which certainly won't have helped any. The reason for that though was that the battery lid was 'grabbing' the front of the battery and not letting me get the securing rod in. I may need to file the inside edges of the battery door a little to try to remedy this.
[DOUBLEPOST=1462541699][/DOUBLEPOST]These are the type of locking hexes that I used,but the 6mm thick ones instead.

RC EP Nitro 1/10 12mm hex 4MM 5MM 6MM Alloy Locking Lock Wheel Rim Adapters SIL
 

Dreadstar

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I changed the battery position and changed over to the white wheels,the result,just the same,she still pops wheelies. The interesting thing here though is that,on tarmac at least,she can corner on two wheels without flipping over. Sorry that I can't film any vids of the truck in action,on tarmac,but the street is a little too narrow to safely film and drive at the same time,especially with all the parked cars that there are here.
I'm just wondering though,if she'll pop wheelies with a 3200kV motor,just what will she do with a 3900kV one? (Both 4-pole & sensorless). Speed wise,I'm not sure,though I can guestimate at around the mid 30's(mph) and she is very stable and tracks beautifully,with no sliding out of the rear end at all.
 

TheJoker

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Nice looking track man! Im looking for a track close at my place but the only one i found doesn't allow 1/8 scale.
 

Dreadstar

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I tried her out today on that track and the best that I could manage were 1'12"00 laps. Now I know that that seems rather slow,but there are things that you need to know about this track first. No.1 this track is 413m long No.2 although the jumps might look quite gentle on the vid,they are actually rather steep on the take-off side,so that you go up rather than forward. Now I don't need to tell you what happens next.....the wind gets under the shell,and no amount of braking is going to bring the nose down,so you land on the rear bumper. Several hits like this,snapped the bumper. For most driving,the stock servo is quite adequate,but here on a high grip surface,it's just not up to the job with the 1/8th wheels fitted.(Not that they're much bigger that the stock ones,but they are heavier).
The only other mishap that I had,was to pop one of the caps on the rear,and lose the bladder.,there is also a split on the rear of the shell near the bumper.(I'll really need to trim the rear of the shell to stop this.).

Other than that,I had fun today,for the first time in a while. I was also running her on the dirt,kicking up rooster tails and generally having a blast. A few of the members thought that she was actually 1/8th scale,because she matches the buggy class in size and were rather surprised to hear that she was actually 1/10th. This track really punishes bad driving and wrecks cars,if you're not careful,so I'm really pleased to have gotten away with as little damage as I did. These are tough trucks,the amount of abuse that it can take,I'm very pleased with it's performance. One thing though,I really have to downsize the pinion,especially running 1/8th wheels,so I'll drop it to either a 16 or 15 for next time as the motor was getting very hot.
[DOUBLEPOST=1462719346][/DOUBLEPOST]I've just stripped out the stock servo and replaced it with a TowerPro 15kg servo instead. Told you I had a lot of cars and spares laying around.
 
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Dreadstar

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I've started cutting vents in the shell,to try to reduce the parachuting effect, Other than the windows,which I cut a section out of,the other vents are just made as a series of flaps,to try and keep as much strength in the shell as possible.

DSCN0832_zps0lsvshku.jpg


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Dreadstar

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Just received today the 3900kV/60A esc combo along with a replacement rear bumper assy. My original intention was to just replace the motor but keep the existing ESC,however,the motor came with larger diameter connectors,so I've had to change the ESC too. Here is the tricky part,it's not compatible with the HW style programming card,so I can't get into it to change the settings from the default ones. This ESC is solid,in that it has a metal case,it's approx twice the weight of the 60A ESC that I've been running. I wish I could get into the menu of this thing because,the brakes are far too weak,especially for the speed that this truck now goes. The default setting for drag-brakes,which are very handy, unfortunately is 0%,I usually set this to around 25%.
I'll let you know how she handles this power.
 
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Dreadstar

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Another interesting piece of info about this ESC is that it can detect POWER(up to 6s,but is rated for 2-3s),not that this interests me though,I'm quite happy just running on 2s.Weight of the ESC is 104g.(It is waterproof too). It's called a Kingbox Enemy 60A and will run sensored motors sensorless e.g. (NOVAK,LRP,ORION).
[DOUBLEPOST=1463224428][/DOUBLEPOST]A look at the new ESC & motor running on a 16t pinion,I've ordered up a 15t one which will help to keep the temps down. I'll try and remember to take my camera with me tomorrow to try and get some pics & footage of her in action.

DSCN0833_zps6lck8est.jpg
 
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Dreadstar

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The best laid plans.....and all that. I was the only person there today,I was forgetting that there was a National Buggy/Truggy round today.
Ok,then,I've got the track all to myself,let's get some practice in. I did a few laps from the rostrum then decided to practice getting these jumps correct from down trackside. What a difference that upgraded servo has made,I can hold a far better line through the corners and over the jumps with a quicker response time too. This new combo works very well on this track such that a lack of drag brakes doesn't matter at all and that the 50% brake force is more than adequate,(you can actually lock-up the rear wheels if you mash the brakes on). It was a perfect day,as the air was very still,which allowed me to jump without fear of parachuting. I'd added 1.5oz of lead to the front of the truck and this seems to have made a huge difference to the take-off attitude of the truck,as I found that I could fly these jumps with ease.(We're not talking about doubling or tripling here). These alloy shocks really do the job,especially with different pistons in them. I modified four AE pistons,(2off No.1's and 2 off No.2's),by sanding down the o/d and thining down the overall thickness of the pistons,to get them to fit
I ran my first 5200 pack out,after about half an hour,guess,I didn't actually time it. In went just a 20c 5000mAh pack,wanting to keep my other 5200 for later. I've only been practicing again for about 10 mins,when on entering a left-hander after jumping,my front left wheel collapsed.
I seriously thought that I'd broken parts again,but no,just a backed-out and gone lower hinge-pin.I spent the next hour,scouring the track,trying to find the blasted thing,but to no avail. You would think that a very shiny 1.5" long screw would stand out like a sore thumb on a green track with brilliant sunshine,but alas. I did find 2 bodyclips;a ballrace;3 chassis wheelbase spacer clips;a 3mm nylock-nut; a couple of bodyshell mounting foams;2 badly rusted 1/8th body pins,but I just couldn't find that pin.

Needless to say,I didn't get any pics taken today after all.
 
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Dreadstar

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I've ordered up another couple of hinge pins,to replace the lost one. What I'm going to do to stop this from happening again is a really simple fix and it doesn't involve loctite,which doesn't really work on plastic anyway, is to utilise the neighbouring hole in the a-arm to capture the hinge-pin,using a countersunk headed bolt. Simply screw the M3 bolt down until the countersunk head rests against the head of the hinge-pin,there is now no way for the hinge-pin to back out.
 

Dreadstar

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Not the easiest thing in the world to photograph,but I think that this pic shows you what I mean.
Just in case you're wondering why there's a nut on the other side,it's just a temporary pin,actually a shock shaft,with a nut on the end to protect the threads.

DSCN0834_zpsw0qtslmb.jpg
 

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The replacement hinge-pins & 15T pinion arrived today. The first thing that I did was to replace the missing hinge-pin and capture it with another M3 c/s bolt.I'd actually thought about replacing the screw type hinge-pins with proper captured style pins,but then I thought about the ease of strip-down,and decided against it,instead utilising the capture screw location to try to remedy the problem. The simple solutions are quite often the best.
 

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I've more or less worked out which tyres I have on those 1/8th wheels. Red Kyosho wheels-Panther Komodo Dragon 2; White Kyosho wheels- Proline Crimefighters; Yellow solid wheels:-Team Losi Step pins; White solid wheels:-Hobao angle spikes.

I like the look and feel of those new 1/10th wheels and tyres that came through the post,unfortunately I can't try them out until I've glued them to the rims. They have a slightly tacky feel to them and are a lot softer a compound than the kit tyres,though not quite as soft as my 1/8th tyres. I have quite high hopes for these.
 
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Dreadstar

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Well,I've now got those tyres glued to the rims and mounted on the Fury. The interesting thing is,size wise,they're the same size as my 1/8th buggy tyres.

I took it out to the street today,using the Floureon 5200mAh 30C packs,and the grip is amazing. There was virtually no wind today and with the added lead on the front end,it never popped a wheelie I'm pleased to say. What you will notice,if you pick up a set of these tyres yourself,is the realistic tyre 'screech',if you corner too fast. The rear end may spin out,but she stays on her wheels without traction rolling,which is a godsend.

The side walls of these tyres exhibit a nice squeak when you rub it with your finger,giving you an idea as to the softness of the rubber. I'm very impressed with the performance of these cheap tyres on tarmac and I'll try to see if I can get some grass running done sometime over the next few days. I just wish that there was somewhere nearby to test out the dirt handling capabilities of these tyres. Even if they don't prove to be all that great on loose dirt,I'd certainly say that they're well worth the money,(under £17.00 or about $20.00). I can tell you right now,without even trying it,that these tyres'll be no use on astroturf though.

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Dreadstar

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Ok,so I'm not very good at this hand held filming whilst driving lark,but here's a short clip. I'm testing out these cheap Chinese tyres on a variety of different surfaces,I must say,that I like them as they seem to hook up on virtually any surface.

 
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