Dread's Fury(Mega)

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The postman was kind enough to deliver the programming card for my esc today. You may have noticed that the esc had two receiver style connections coming from it. Here's the good bit,plug the second set of leads into the programming card and turn the system on. You can now access the esc menu without having to strip open the receiver box and disconnect the esc cable. Why can't other brands be like this?

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A word of warning about this ESC,unless you buy a programming card to suit this ESC,you will need to fit a low-level alarm to your lipo,as the cut-off voltage is a dangerous 2.0V/cell. Needless to say,I've only ever run this esc for a maximum of 5 mins at a time........Boy,am I glad that I did. I've now re-set the LVC to 3.4V/cell.
The programming card can be bought from a Chinese company called GOOLRC.
 
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There is no hyphen I'm afraid,that is the actual name,but that's the Chinese for you.( GOOLRC.COM) I thought that you might have gone with the GHOUL RC monicur though.

I'm going to have to change the rear hub carrier ball studs to captured links,as I had one of them pull out. Long bolt & nut time then.
I'm also going to be ordering up some Bondic UV setting plastic to repair the weak points on my bodyshell. Having seen what this stuff can do,it's a must for the old toolbox. If you can use Bondic to repair broken propeller blades, then it'll certainly do the job on our shells. Just to be clear here,Bondic is NOT a glue it is a UV setting liquid plastic. Have a look at the number of you tube r/c vids there are on this stuff.
 
Is Bondic flexible? On my Lexan bodies I use fiberglass weave sheet rockers tape and Shoe Goo to repair / reinforce before cracks.
 
It may well be,I know that DJ Medic & Nightflyyer, both swear by the stuff. Remember though that you are adding new plastic to the damaged areas,not doing a glue repair. When this stuff is hit by the UV light,it cures at a temperature of 153F,leaving new plastic that can be both cut and sanded.
 
Question for today:- Do you think that we'll be able to retro-fit the 2016 rear bumper directly onto our existing trucks?
 
the rear bumper on the 2016 looked like it shared parts with the senton... now just need a way to add on that senton roll cage
 
Got the Bondic & the RC4WD M3 straight plastic captured rod ends through today. That's the shell repaired and the new rod ends fitted to the rear hub carriers with good old fashioned nut & bolt technology. I now have 18 spare rod ends,well,they will probably come in handy on another vehicle.


I'm not going to be able to drive the Fury for a while,as I've sheared a drive pin on the rear axle,and the pins that I have are far too big. These Arrma ones are woefully thin.
 
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Managed to make up a temporary one,but I'm having real problems in trying to source some new ones,(the little 1.7mm type).
 
Ok problem solved, I drilled out the pin hole on the axle to 2mm and fitted a 2mm pin. I also needed to change the drive hex and add a washer to the axle, below the drive pin to take up some of the slop as the new hex was not 'stepped'.

I'm just waiting on a camera headband, something that I've been missing for years, so that I can hopefully get some driving vids done, without having to drive 1-handed. Now I'm not one of those fortunate people that own a Go-Pro, or can afford one, so all my filming is done using a Nikon Coolpix 12.0MP camera. I've picked up an adaptor which will allow me to mount it on the headband mount. This should make life so much easier, I wonder why I never thought of this before. The only other camera that I have is an Olympus C-7070 7.1MP, which although capable of taking much longer video's is far too heavy.
 
Well,I just received two nice sets of shock springs for the Fury. 55mm(medium) for the front & 75mm(medium) for the rear,both from Fastrax. What a difference these springs make to the rear of the truck,they really do stiffen the rear end up,such that it doesn't feel that a sneeze will compress the rear shocks. This should help prevent,or at least minimize the squatting that occurs when accelerating and cut down on body roll too. You can now drop the truck from 3' onto the ground,without any bouncing of the rear end. I haven't tried the front ones out yet,as the existing springs are quite good as they stand.
These springs fit the alloy shocks so much better that the Team Associated ones do and really bring the shocks to life. If you buy the type of shocks that I have,I highly recommend getting a set of these Fastrax springs to replace the very soft supplied springs,(especially the rears). The other great thing about them is that they cost less than £3.00/each for a set of four from Modelsport.co.uk
 
Took her out for a bash today on loose leafy dirt, although these Chinese tyres are good,they're not very good on the really loose stuff. When you get onto the firmer dirt however,they hook up quite well, so I would say, that for the more sandy surfaced tracks they wouldn't be very good and you'd probably be better off getting Badlands instead.

Next week, I'm going to try it with the Crimefighter tyres and the Losi Step pins, to see which ones work best for that sort of terrain.
 
I had the truck out for a run, to see how the Komodo Dragon tyres would work. They hook up rather well,though now the truck has a tendency to roll, so I'm not going to be using them on tarmac.
This time I had someone come up to me to ask questions,when he came away with.....'It IS an Arrma,I thought so. I bought my son the Raider'. Needless to say,this little chat turned into an hour long discussion about durability; upgrades; brushless systems and mods. He went home with 4 captured rod-ends and 4 RPM 4-40 rod ends in his pocket. I also gave him addresses of companies that carry spares as well as this website. I don't know if he'll appear or not,but it was nice to be able to help another Arrma owner out.
That was my good deed for the day.
 
I used the number plate link that Orange Dragon was talking about to add a number plate to my truck. I think that it looks not too bad,considering. I chose the Maryland plate because I think it looks better graphic wise.

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I used the number plate link that Orange Dragon was talking about to add a number plate to my truck. I think that it looks not too bad,considering. I chose the Maryland plate because I think it looks better graphic wise.

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You mean me? :( waaaaaah just kidding haha

I kinda like the maryland one too, I am excited to make one for my own, you gave me an idea of a new spot! thanks man
 
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Just a short little bashing video,to test out my 'headcam'. This time the truck is running on 1/8th wheels with the Crimefighter tyres.


In need of a little clean methinks.

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