Granite drive shaft cups

[Revomikey]

Hi guys, my shaft popped off today at the little silver cross piece by the diff, i clipped it back in but it came loose again 30 seconds later. I need to replace the cup/ yolk piece but i resent buying an entire pair of shafts for the sake of that part.

Do you have any fixes chaps? I just loosened the slipper as it was cranked really tight and i put some glue on the on the cup to strengthen it, can you think of anything else? Are the cups available on their own? Cheers chaps

 

[Revomikey]

Anyone? Bueller? Anyone?

 

[rizaptor700]

seems to be the biggest issue with the 3s line. don't waste time or $ on the HR stuff.
hopefully something better comes along soon

 

[jondilly1974]

Is this for the Mega or BLX? Front or rear? A new pair of shafts are pretty cheap. You will also need some replacement diff fluid. 10k is the factory weight. Might as well do bearings while in there. Fast Eddy’s was my choice. Loosening the slipper will help keep this from happening again. Make sure to use blue loctite on the slipper screw.

 

[sadlerbw]

There isn’t really a fix...at least not that anyone has found so far. Just consider the driveshafts wear items, like the clutch pads. Jenny’s RC and lumidave35 on eBay both sell a set of four compete shafts taken off of brand new trucks for not much money. That’s usually what I do: buy four at a time from the kit breakers.

However, if you look at the optional parts list on ARRMAs website, there is an optional CVD axle and pin that looks like it would replace at least the outer U-joint. I’ve never tried it, but it looks a lot like the plastic ears would go inside the metal CVD part and get pinned in. If that is the case, it might actually be stronger than the stock arrangement. For the outer joint anyway. It wouldn’t do anything for the inner joint at the diff. I don’t know if anyone has ever tried these parts (AR310868 and AR310869), but at $18 for two axles and $8 for the pin set, it would cost more than buying a whole set of stock axles from a kit breaker.

 

[bicketybam]

There isn’t really a fix...at least not that anyone has found so far. Just consider the driveshafts wear items, like the clutch pads. Jenny’s RC and lumidave35 on eBay both sell a set of four compete shafts taken off of brand new trucks for not much money. That’s usually what I do: buy four at a time from the kit breakers.

However, if you look at the optional parts list on ARRMAs website, there is an optional CVD axle and pin that looks like it would replace at least the outer U-joint. I’ve never tried it, but it looks a lot like the plastic ears would go inside the metal CVD part and get pinned in. If that is the case, it might actually be stronger than the stock arrangement. For the outer joint anyway. It wouldn’t do anything for the inner joint at the diff. I don’t know if anyone has ever tried these parts (AR310868 and AR310869), but at $18 for two axles and $8 for the pin set, it would cost more than buying a whole set of stock axles from a kit breaker.

It says they are for the Mega so I would assume they are weaker.

 

[Revomikey]

I was thinking last night and all of the sudden it dawned on me, the cups get strained in one direction only and that's forward driving, if you swap left and right sides your are then putting the pressure on the other side of the cup, the unworn side.

I ran her hard today like this and no problems. This might double the life of a worn cup.