Kraton Driveline Temperature

[zerocool135]

Before taking my new Kraton V4 out for the first time I went through the car and did all the recommended upgrades (Sealed bearings, Aluminum chassis braces, new servo and mount, shimming diffs if needed, new diff oil, HR diff cups, Ditched the stock radio in favor of the futaba I already have.) After coming in I checked the temps of the motor and esc and those were great 130 motor and 100-110 esc, however I noticed that the drive line (center diff, driveshafts, and diff inputs) were all quite warm like as warm as the motor. Everything moves freely with no noticeable binding. This is my first 8th scale with a center diff and I put in the HR diff cup because I read on another thread that someone melted their center diff and I didnt want to deal with that. Is this normal or do I need to start looking for a cause?

Thanks.

 

[joostin420]

I always rebuild and upgrade the way I want it before running as well

Things get warm; the hr diff cups were a good call. What are you running for diff fluids?

 

[zerocool135]

50k/200k/20k based on what some of the members on here were running.

 

[joostin420]

Those fluid specs should be okay. I am running 60/200/30k front/center/rear.

Did you add enough fluid to the center diff and the others? Did you use the Mugen e0260 shim set? How did you shim; 2-1, 2-1 for the planetary gears and a larger shim behind each of the crown gears?

 

[Mr.Duke]

40/800/30 in the Outcast
20/500/40 in the v3 Talion

I normally see center diff temps around 130f after a hard Bash on a 6s pack running in the Outcast and mid to upper 130's in the Talion

 

[zerocool135]

Those fluid specs should be okay. I am running 60/200/30k front/center/rear.

Did you add enough fluid to the center diff and the others? Did you use the Mugen e0260 shim set? How did you shim; 2-1, 2-1 for the planetary gears and a larger shim behind each of the crown gears?

Filled them to the top, a little fluid came out when I put the screws in and let them sit for what seemed like hours to bleed the air. I did use the mugen shims but couldn't put the 2 extra small ones cause they were too tight, but with the big one they felt good. Also with my v4 diffs there were already 2 small shims on the output (you put the shim on before you slide the output into the case) and on top of the o-ring inside.