Typhon Driveshaft input cup grub screw

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STARman

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Location
Hampshire, UK
Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Typhon 6s
In my quest to replace the bearings and diff oil since I picked up my V3 Typhon I've had to use some serious heat with my newly acquired gas torch to get the grub screws out. First off it was the wheel hubs, but then the grub screw on the front diff input cup wasn't coming out in a hurry either, and I was forced to go in via the small gap behind the lower suspension arm.

Is there generally an easier way to access this as it's buried underneath the red anodised plate (not sure on the name)?

To top it off the motor mount screws on the chassis started to round off as they are also welded on so tight, so I've had to leave it until I can pick up a decent 2.5mm hex...Once I can get the driveshaft out then I'll have the joy of trying to prise the cup from the input gear that I've been reading about!

I cant believe so much loctite has been used on these machines, at least I'm getting to find my way around it for next time, but Mrs STARman now thinks I'm obsessed with my "toy car" !
 
In my quest to replace the bearings and diff oil since I picked up my V3 Typhon I've had to use some serious heat with my newly acquired gas torch to get the grub screws out. First off it was the wheel hubs, but then the grub screw on the front diff input cup wasn't coming out in a hurry either, and I was forced to go in via the small gap behind the lower suspension arm.

Is there generally an easier way to access this as it's buried underneath the red anodised plate (not sure on the name)?

To top it off the motor mount screws on the chassis started to round off as they are also welded on so tight, so I've had to leave it until I can pick up a decent 2.5mm hex...Once I can get the driveshaft out then I'll have the joy of trying to prise the cup from the input gear that I've been reading about!

I cant believe so much loctite has been used on these machines, at least I'm getting to find my way around it for next time, but Mrs STARman now thinks I'm obsessed with my "toy car" !
I usually take the dif case right out of the car when working on things like this. The rear might be accessible, but the front is near impossible. And yes, heat is the best solution for the red loctite of death from the Arrma factory. Almost everyone has rounded the grubs and motor mount screws the first time around, so don't feel you've done anything out of the ordinary. And tell Mrs. STARman that this is only the beginning. Long nights at the workbench are closer than you think?
 
MIP hex drivers are worth every penny and won't round out the screws.

I'm with Noto-J on this one, it's easier just to remove the whole diff when it comes to servicing bearings or input cups
 
Arrma is in a lose lose situation with the loctite. Use too little and people are screaming about screws backing out. Use too much and people are complaining they can't get screws out. If you think about which scenario has the greatest potential for collateral damage, I can see why they err on the side of caution and loctite the piss out of everything.
 
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It's a dilemma for sure, I've managed to get two of the three motor mount screws out but given up on the 3rd for tonight before I do some longer lasting damage with all the heat I've been firing at these screws ?
 
MIP hex drivers are worth every penny and won't round out the screws.

I'm with Noto-J on this one, it's easier just to remove the whole diff when it comes to servicing bearings or input cups
I second investing in some MIP hex drivers... night and day difference.

You will never need another set again.
 

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