Kraton Driveshaft keeps popping out

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Baron500

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Jeannette pa
Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock 4x4
  2. Limitless
  3. Kraton 6s
  4. Kraton 4s
  5. Notorious
  6. Outcast 6s
  7. Outcast 4s
  8. Senton 6s
  9. Typhon 6s
My left front drive shaft/dog bone keeps coming out at the left front inside I’ve checked and checked again nothing is lose I run trenchers what’s making it pop out .. I already tightened everything down around it properly.

01735952-380D-4206-9B93-B73C123A71A6.jpeg
 
My left front drive shaft/dog bone keeps coming out at the left front inside I’ve checked and checked again nothing is lose I run trenchers what’s making it pop out .. I already tightened everything down around it properly.

View attachment 71283
Are you running with spacers on the pivot ball studs where they screw into the A-arms? Are you running aftermarket a-arms? Do you have your droop screws adjusted?
 
Mine used to pop out on my V4 Kraton. Only truck I've had problems with in this area. After advice from this forum, I removed the washers / spacers but also upgraded steering blocks (Hot Racing AON21MA01) because pivot balls would also pop through. This was so menacing that it caused me to not "like" my Kraton as much as my other Arrma trucks. Now that it's fixed I'm liking it more now than ever.
edit: also caused my drive cups to become mangled like yours and I still haven't replaced those. If it continues to hold up I'll replace the drive cups.

1585076990473.png
 
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Remove the washers/shims and if it still happens shave a few mm of the arm. Don't do to much or you will start having other issues. You just want to keep the ball in the cup while the tire is at its highest point (arm up). Ok to stress a little to see if the dogbone ball could still pop.
 
Remove the washers/shims and if it still happens shave a few mm of the arm. Don't do to much or you will start having other issues. You just want to keep the ball in the cup while the tire is at its highest point (arm up). Ok to stress a little to see if the dogbone ball could still pop.
I had that problem after i installed rpm arms thay seem to flex more than normal especially if i use wd40 or similar to clean and protect .think it makes plastic flexible which is sometimes handy .i removed the washers as mentioned above it was fine after that .and i did not notice any difference in the way the track handles removing the washers does alter the angle of the wheels but not enough for me to notice during general bashing
 
Mine used to pop out on my V4 Kraton. Only truck I've had problems with in this area. After advice from this forum, I removed the washers / spacers but also upgraded steering blocks (Hot Racing AON21MA01) because pivot balls would also pop through. This was so menacing that it caused me to not "like" my Kraton as much as my other Arrma trucks. Now that it's fixed I'm liking it more now than ever.
edit: also caused my drive cups to become mangled like yours and I still haven't replaced those. If it continues to hold up I'll replace the drive cups.

View attachment 71294
This is exactly what I did after changing to RPM arms , much better since . Set the droop screws too
 
As long as you do it equaly to upper/lower and l;eft/right the impact is only on 'toe'. Now you have a little more 'toe in', compared to prior, which makes steering a little harder under throttle. For bashing it's typically a don't care, for speed runs there is other stuff that needs to be done.

RPM vs stock, there is a thread somewhere on this forum but dimensions are identical and that was confirmed by RPM as well, in that thread.
Arm softness is an issue but it's desired, this is all a balancing act.

When is it enough i.e. washers, shaving etc?
What I do, look at the cup, rotate the wheel for that 'slit' to be verticaland bend your arm up all the way with some pressure. If that pin of the dogbone is outside that cup it will pop under throttle. Just 'barely inside' (1-2mm) will keep it in. Now it will only pop under extreme bending and that is probably desired. Mine have yet to pop again under my normal abuse.

Drop screws - yes set them right but they have nothing to do with driveshaft popping out. Droop screws save your shocks though.
 
Just popped one out again...?Didn't set the droop so I hope it's the cause. I'll have to look up again the right way to get this done correctly. Yesterday all was good but I hadn't sent it off of the ramps. Today I pulled the ramps out and it happened.
 
As long as you do it equaly to upper/lower and l;eft/right the impact is only on 'toe'. Now you have a little more 'toe in', compared to prior, which makes steering a little harder under throttle. For bashing it's typically a don't care, for speed runs there is other stuff that needs to be done.

RPM vs stock, there is a thread somewhere on this forum but dimensions are identical and that was confirmed by RPM as well, in that thread.
Arm softness is an issue but it's desired, this is all a balancing act.

When is it enough i.e. washers, shaving etc?
What I do, look at the cup, rotate the wheel for that 'slit' to be verticaland bend your arm up all the way with some pressure. If that pin of the dogbone is outside that cup it will pop under throttle. Just 'barely inside' (1-2mm) will keep it in. Now it will only pop under extreme bending and that is probably desired. Mine have yet to pop again under my normal abuse.

Drop screws - yes set them right but they have nothing to do with driveshaft popping out. Droop screws save your shocks though.

Just read this. Maybe it's not the droop as I'd hoped. Will have to look at my footage to see what I did or how I landed just before this happened.
 
I'm willing to bet it has something to do with your drive cup looking like a mangled mess...
Well it just started to look like that 4 days ago it was a brand new one but that why I ask the question not for u to come and say what it looked like ??‍♂️
Are you running with spacers on the pivot ball studs where they screw into the A-arms? Are you running aftermarket a-arms? Do you have your droop screws adjusted?
Spacers are stock on here and yes I have rom arms also droop screws are stock also
I’d like to see the other side of that drive cup. Looks like something jammed between the cup and the arm and really messed things up.
Yes
 
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I think this dudes problem first of all, the trenchers.... I ran them and had the same problem. Firstly, Trenchers look dope but they are too Darn heavy, makes the truck handle like ?. They release at uptravel...

Secondly, by the looks of it that truck is in need of some MAINTENANCE.

What worked for me...

I tore my front apart, added 60k to the front diff, (probably not important to add here but I did) Mr. Dukes method of straightening my Driveshafts, (bent a.f.) replaced the cups, ( like the pic) and also the arms. (Rpm, bowed).

Obviously ditched the spacers (washers) also.

Debated on trimming the arms, but after the rebuild deemed it unnecessary.

Basically gave it some L.O.V.E.

Most importantly ditched the trenchers and threw on some backflip LPs. Now I'm flying high no problems. She is a beast again. ?

No problems since. My .02$
 

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I think this dudes problem first of all, the trenchers.... I ran them and had the same problem. Firstly, Trenchers look dope but they are too Darn heavy, makes the truck handle like ?. They release at uptravel...

Secondly, by the looks of it that truck is in need of some MAINTENANCE.

What worked for me...

I tore my front apart, added 60k to the front diff, (probably not important to add here but I did) Mr. Dukes method of straightening my Driveshafts, (bent a.f.) replaced the cups, ( like the pic) and also the arms. (Rpm, bowed).

Obviously ditched the spacers (washers) also.

Debated on trimming the arms, but after the rebuild deemed it unnecessary.

Basically gave it some L.O.V.E.

Most importantly ditched the trenchers and threw on some backflip LPs. Now I'm flying high no problems. She is a beast again. ?

No problems since. My .02$
I'm on the heavy ass original Backflips so I'll be removing those too. I have plenty LPs though...I keep em coming. Thanks for the insight.
 
bumping old thread... this just happened to me yesterday, was a light bash but on bumpy road...lol anyhow, can someone tell me what spacers/washers i should remove? from the Arms? or? thanks in advance... still learning how to wrench on these things
 
I'm willing to bet it has something to do with your drive cup looking like a mangled mess...
Yea, that's the kind of comment that makes me worry for the future. CLEARLY that is the "result" of this issue. I work at my LHS, and I've been dealing with this on my EXB since the moment I put it in the air. Every comment I've read thus far is non sense and I hope and pray that our discernment skills improve somehow as a collective soon, or we will all follow some dummy off a cliff sooner than later
This is exactly what I did after changing to RPM arms , much better since . Set the droop screws too
How does a droop screw adj help when this is from compression of the dampened? Think.....think....think
This is exactly what I did after changing to RPM arms , much better since . Set the droop screws too
How does a droop screw adj help when this is from compression of the dampened? Think.....think....think
 
My front dog bones liked to pop out after landing hard off the ramp. Stiffened up the front suspension helped sort it out.
How does a droop screw adj help when this is from compression of the dampened? Think.....think....think
Doesn’t adjusting of the droop screws make the car go faster?
 
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Yea, that's the kind of comment that makes me worry for the future. CLEARLY that is the "result" of this issue. I work at my LHS, and I've been dealing with this on my EXB since the moment I put it in the air. Every comment I've read thus far is non sense and I hope and pray that our discernment skills improve somehow as a collective soon, or we will all follow some dummy off a cliff sooner than later

How does a droop screw adj help when this is from compression of the dampened? Think.....think....think

How does a droop screw adj help when this is from compression of the dampened? Think.....think....think
When I first started having this problem I noticed that my droop screws had backed almost all the way out (or they just weren't right from the factory). When my suspension was fully extended, the drive shaft was right on the edge of the cup. With a small amount of pressure (pushing the wheel down) I was able to twist the drive shaft right out of the cup. Adjusting the droop screw made it so that the A-arms could not travel so far and prevented this issue from happening at full extension.
 
When I first started having this problem I noticed that my droop screws had backed almost all the way out (or they just weren't right from the factory). When my suspension was fully extended, the drive shaft was right on the edge of the cup. With a small amount of pressure (pushing the wheel down) I was able to twist the drive shaft right out of the cup. Adjusting the droop screw made it so that the A-arms could not travel so far and prevented this issue from happening at full extension.
yes! in the beginning i had the same thing present itself. but as far as when fully compressed, it can "only" be "in a perfect world AND no newbie weirdness is occurring" the length of the arms...and that means both of coarse. and im sorry if a came off salty btw, but the comment the got me going was DEF salty and "misguided"...so the inner grandad in me kinda took over. even though i stand by every word..lmao. WHICH BRINGS US TO THE ELEPHANT IN THE ROOM GUYS..expect this to only get worse until we take back control of our country and start manufacturing at home again. even if we "didnt" have china attacking us in every way, they still have had massive rain/flooding and that alone is enough to put enormous constraint and stress on the very very very little quality control they employed before. "truthfully i beleive it is 110% intentional as it has been with our military equipment". which OBVIOUSLY should NEVER be made in ANY foreign country in the first place. anyways, remember is said this when it becomes undeniable. and im just gonna say it "when that happens if it has not already, feel free to hmu if you want to get up to speed and learn how to help"
 
@jkflow @crimsonfancy This is an old post but it still applies to the K6S EXB I just got. My front has not popped out but when I compress the front shock I can see the drive ball is at the edge of the outdrive and can come out if it were a serious bash.

I really do not want to remove the top shim thinking I want to keep the alignment good like stock. Is it better...well is it OK to just add a small piece of fuel tubing on the shock piston shaft? Or remove the shim idea is better?
 
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