Driveshaft removal BR3S

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Harriot10

Speed runner with a learner’s permit 🤣
Premium Member
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
2,294
Reaction score
2,885
Location
Maryland
Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock 4x4
  2. Felony
  3. Granite
  4. Infraction
  5. Kraton 8S
  6. Kraton 6s
  7. Kraton EXB
  8. Outcast 6s
  9. Typhon 6s
Trying to remove my driveshafts from the diff on my BR3S. Want to put thicker diff oil in, but having no luck removing the screws that hold the driveshafts on from the factory. Any ideas or tricks to getting these jokers off?
 
Trying to remove my driveshafts from the diff on my BR3S. Want to put thicker diff oil in, but having no luck removing the screws that hold the driveshafts on from the factory. Any ideas or tricks to getting these jokers off?
What is your issue exactly? Screwdriver/bit not log enough and can't reach? Screws stripped out? Too tight and can't break it loose?
 
They are tight as hell. Probably have loctite on them. Only thing I have that will reach is a “L” shaped Allen wrench. My MIP’s aren’t long enough.
There’s a video on YouTube showing a work around. Looks like a pain though. I’ll get er done. ??
 
They are tight as hell from the factory usually. Is your L hex wrench decent quality? You should be able to loosen them with a decent amount of force. I’ve done 3 Typhon 3S and 1 Senton 3S with a long 2.0 driver from Amazon without much trouble, but I did drive all of them for a bit before, so they may have loosened up.

I’ve read some people sneaking a soldering iron tip in between the u-joint to heat up the hex.
 
I've seen one member say that you can turn the joint 90 degrees just far enough to get your driver on it. Said the only thing that happens is the one of the inner ears get a little scraped up but not bad enough to ruin it. I've tried it and it seems doable but might need to trim a small bit material from the end of one of the inner ears.
 
Gotta figure out the best way to get heat to that threadlock. A soldering iron would work well if you can get a thin enough one in there.
 
Gotta figure out the best way to get heat to that threadlock. A soldering iron would work well if you can get a thin enough one in there.
He could remove the diff itself and then split the diff and heat it from the shaft end on the other side.
 
Just ordered a 2mm from Amazon that should work. If not, they’ll be getting it back. Like I said earlier though, there is a work around. Just leaving the shafts on and splitting the yoke. Just not as easy to work on that way. I built my Granite from the chassis up, so I didn’t have this issue. Put the Arrma steel shafts on that one. ??
I've seen one member say that you can turn the joint 90 degrees just far enough to get your driver on it. Said the only thing that happens is the one of the inner ears get a little scraped up but not bad enough to ruin it. I've tried it and it seems doable but might need to trim a small bit material from the end of one of the inner ears.
I tried to get a driver in there like that, doesn’t seem possible.
 
Just ordered a 2mm from Amazon that should work. If not, they’ll be getting it back. Like I said earlier though, there is a work around. Just leaving the shafts on and splitting the yoke. Just not as easy to work on that way. I built my Granite from the chassis up, so I didn’t have this issue. Put the Arrma steel shafts on that one. ??

I tried to get a driver in there like that, doesn’t seem possible.
Arrma steel shafts?
 
Just ordered a 2mm from Amazon that should work. If not, they’ll be getting it back. Like I said earlier though, there is a work around. Just leaving the shafts on and splitting the yoke. Just not as easy to work on that way. I built my Granite from the chassis up, so I didn’t have this issue. Put the Arrma steel shafts on that one. ??

I tried to get a driver in there like that, doesn’t seem possible.


i beleive the above mentioned poster is me.. yes swing the shaft towards 90 degrees.. it will not make it there, it makes about a 60 degree angle.. put your driver in and boom done... here is a picture i just took to help... its the easiest way to get at them... the plus side is the ears only slightly spread causing no issues with the shafts...
 

Attachments

  • 20200305_225704.jpg
    20200305_225704.jpg
    267.1 KB · Views: 48
Tried to get a driver in there like that, doesn’t seem possible.
Had to shave a tiny bit of the sides of one of the ears to get it started but I was able to do it when at like 60 degree angle so I guess myth confirmed ?. I did it with a spare shaft as a test but if it were still attached to the truck it would have been possible to do without shaving anything, just didn't have the leverage with the part in my hands.
20200305_200806.jpg


...aaaannnd I just now see the guy I originally heard it from just posted a pic of this so I guess I'm being redundant now lol
 
Last edited:
Got all 4 off and changed the diff fluid out. The driveshafts do flex enough to get something on that screw. I was a little worried I was going to break them. All good now! Thanks for the help.
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top