Typhon Drivetrain noise

[BulletRCs_NZ]

I'm really enjoying the Typhon 6s. After a constant diet of 3s vehicles the 6s has been a bit of a revelation.

But man is the drivetrain loud. Well specifically I think it's the spur and pinion that is making the bulk of the noise. I haven't opened any diffs up yet so I cannot confirm how much oil is in them.

How loud should the drivetrain be? I know the metal spur is always going to make a bit of a racket and hopefully thats all it is. I'm interested to hear what other users of the 6s line up think.

Thanks

 

[BashTillBroken]

It’s perfectly normal it’s metal on metal
After a while you’ll like that sound and when you drive another vehicle you’ll miss it

 

[Monster Dork]

6s Arrmas are noisy. Just make sure your mesh is set and there isn't any binding, then go blast.

 

[grihn]

It’s perfectly normal it’s metal on metal
After a while you’ll like that sound and when you drive another vehicle you’ll miss it

So true. I drive my 6s a lot more than my 3s, and I always think something is wrong when I take the 3s out because it's too quiet.

 

[pug]

It’s normal, just make sure there is no binding in the drivetrain.

 

[BulletRCs_NZ]

Awesome thanks guys. Definitely no binding and I've reset the mesh from the factory.

Just had it out for a rip after 2 days of rain (read - cage lion) and I'm in love with this thing. TBH I prefer it on 4s or 75% on 6s at this stage. Gets quite warm on 6s and I'm still adjusting to the power delivery vs the 3s line.

 

[morrjr71]

TBH I prefer it on 4s or 75% on 6s at this stage. Gets quite warm on 6s and I'm still adjusting to the power delivery vs the 3s line.

I run my Kraton 6s on 4s. I tried running it on two 3s batteries in series, but the Kraton was a bit too fast to run in the space I have available to run it. I'm using my Radiolink RC6GS radio, which doesn't have switchable 50/75/100 throttle settings, so I can't easily turn the throttle down. Running a single 4s battery turns out to be my optimum solution.

 

[BulletRCs_NZ]

Yes agreed. I'm enjoying the 4s a lot.

 

[VDVC-RC]

Ever thought of swapping to a belt drive (between pinion & spur) & helical cut front & rear diffs to quiet it down?
I like the idea, just don't think the it's worth the price & hassles just to run a little quieter.

Find a way to get a reliable CVT in there & you'll hit a goldmine!

 

[Exc3l]

Ever thought of swapping to a belt drive (between pinion & spur) & helical cut front & rear diffs to quiet it down?
I like the idea, just don't think the it's worth the price & hassles just to run a little quieter.

Find a way to get a reliable CVT in there & you'll hit a goldmine!

Helical cut gears are louder from what I know. Straight cuts are quieter.

 

[Monster Dork]

Helical cut gears are louder from what I know. Straight cuts are quieter.

The opposite is true. Also, helicals distribute load across a longer tooth, so they're stronger (at least in the real world).

 

[VDVC-RC]

Helical cut gears are louder from what I know. Straight cuts are quieter.

I'd like to know where you've experienced this. My experience is with 1:1 racecar gearboxes.

 

[VDVC-RC]

Another option is helical cut pinion & spur on the motor & center diff. But I think the side load forces with cause other issues with the motor & center diff bearings. And then there's the cost of having it fabbed up in the 1st place.
So ARRMA applied the KISS RULE...
KEEP
IT
SIMPLE
STUPID

 

[Monster Dork]

Another option is helical cut pinion & spur on the motor & center diff. But I think the side load forces with cause other issues with the motor & center diff bearings. And then there's the cost of having it fabbed up in the 1st place.
So ARRMA applied the KISS RULE...
KEEP
IT
SIMPLE
STUPID

Agreed! Definite no on the helical spur and pinion, the setup is not designed to restrain axial thrust.