Talion Dropped a front dogbone

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Messages
180
Reaction score
195
Location
Westminster, CO
Arrma RC's
  1. Talion
It's a Talion EXB. I had replaced the front diff in the spring and I've been so busy I haven't run it since then. On the first run since, one of the front dogbones bound up. It looks like maybe it's too short??? I'm wondering if it makes sense that I had put in a kraton diff instead of a talion diff, cuz I would need longer dog bones for that right? I hate when I forget what I was doing. LOL

Here are some pix of what's going on. And then a pic of a spare diff I have, though I'm pretty sure THATS the kraton diff, and what's in there is actually a talion diff. The cup looks pretty beat up, so I probably will want to change that anyway right?

I guess what I'm saying is.... NOW WHAT? LOL :) thanks
20221017_222750.jpg


20221017_222856.jpg
 
All the 6s diffs are the same. So the Drive shafts never changed.
I would remove the upper and lower Pivot Ball shims. This will bring the bone's pins in closer into the diff cups. Keeping them captured more so. Make sure the Pivot balls are not loose. Backed out. Sometimes even warped uneven control arms can cause the bone to pop out.
Also, your Fr shock setting can cause this at extreme compression.
Some ideas.
:cool:
 
I had the same issue with my Talion and Kraton. Similar to what Moirae is suggesting, except I use nitro fuel line. Cut a small 2-4mm section and slide it over the shock shaft. Has a minor amount of give to it, and you can do ALOT of rigs with just a foot of it. Local shops will carry it, or just order some:
https://www.amazon.com/Du-Bro-2233-Purple-Nitro-Line/dp/B0006O8SXG
 
Also, have a close look at the shock rod ends too, they bend and eventually break. Which will allow over compression of the shock..
I have been fighting this same issue with my kexb lately..
BTW your diff outdrives look mint compared to mine!! Definitely have plenty of life left in them👍
 
FWIW, I've installed a stack of o rings to each shock shaft and relocated the stand off's to the inner most holes..still popping out.
Tried Tekno spring cups and shock rod ends, made it worses😕
The Tekno ends are a tad shorter, so no surprise they made it worses..
Next up for me is removing the shims from behind the pivot balls.. getting desperate, and tired of popping a hinge pin every battery pack to reinstall the drive axle,LOL.
 
It's a Talion EXB. I had replaced the front diff in the spring and I've been so busy I haven't run it since then. On the first run since, one of the front dogbones bound up. It looks like maybe it's too short??? I'm wondering if it makes sense that I had put in a kraton diff instead of a talion diff, cuz I would need longer dog bones for that right? I hate when I forget what I was doing. LOL

Here are some pix of what's going on. And then a pic of a spare diff I have, though I'm pretty sure THATS the kraton diff, and what's in there is actually a talion diff. The cup looks pretty beat up, so I probably will want to change that anyway right?

I guess what I'm saying is.... NOW WHAT? LOL :) thanks
View attachment 250705

View attachment 250706

Keep in mind the exb diff is different than the old style diff you have in your hand.. you can not use the drive cups in the exb diff, nor can you use the diff case on the exb ring gear..

Remove the shims behind the pillow balls as mentioned..axle depth into cup will increase helping your issue...
FWIW, I've installed a stack of o rings to each shock shaft and relocated the stand off's to the inner most holes..still popping out.
Tried Tekno spring cups and shock rod ends, made it worses😕
The Tekno ends are a tad shorter, so no surprise they made it worses..
Next up for me is removing the shims from behind the pivot balls.. getting desperate, and tired of popping a hinge pin every battery pack to reinstall the drive axle,LOL.

Pull the shims for sure, they are causing more harm than good.. don't be afraid to pull some length off the arm either..😉
 
don't be afraid to pull some length off the arm either..😉
Was a thought..I did check thread/hole depth of the arms where the pivot balls thread in, there's definitely some room left.
Thanks, I'll give it a go.👌🍻
I bought 2 complete sets of Tekno spring cups, shock rod ends and pivot balls for both my Arrmas.
I'd prefer to use them if I can. They do have to be drilled out since Arrma shafts are bigger than Tekno.
 
FWIW, I've installed a stack of o rings to each shock shaft and relocated the stand off's to the inner most holes..still popping out.
Tried Tekno spring cups and shock rod ends, made it worses😕
The Tekno ends are a tad shorter, so no surprise they made it worses..
Next up for me is removing the shims from behind the pivot balls.. getting desperate, and tired of popping a hinge pin every battery pack to reinstall the drive axle,LOL.
I also had to remove the washer behind a arm with 3 to 4 spacers on shock shaft. I think if you don't remove washer behind a arm you need more on shock shafts. Probably double the amount.

I used to have this problem on multiple rigs repeatedly and it sucked donkey poop 🤣
 
I also had to remove the washer behind a arm with 3 to 4 spacers on shock shaft. I think if you don't remove washer behind a arm you need more on shock shafts. Probably double the amount.

I used to have this problem on multiple rigs repeatedly and it sucked donkey poop 🤣
Yes it do🤣🤣
I started off with like 2 shock o rings, then 3, then 4... I'll get it straightened out. Thanks for all the help guys!!🍻
My brother on the other hand..he just gets pissed and pegs the throttle after popping an axle..guess who needs a new diff outdrive now? What an idiot!! 🤣🤣
 
Was a thought..I did check thread/hole depth of the arms where the pivot balls thread in, there's definitely some room left.
Thanks, I'll give it a go.👌🍻
I bought 2 complete sets of Tekno spring cups, shock rod ends and pivot balls for both my Arrmas.
I'd prefer to use them if I can. They do have to be drilled out since Arrma shafts are bigger than Tekno.
Never had to drill out my Tekno rod ends if that is what you are referring to.:unsure:
I use a shock tool to hold the shaft and fresh cut the threads no issue. I use Chap stick to help cutting fresh threads.
 
Never had to drill out my Tekno rod ends if that is what you are referring to.:unsure:
I use a shock tool to hold the shaft and fresh cut the threads no issue. I use Chap stick to help cutting fresh threads.
Yup..I spent a few minutes trying to thread them in by hand.. then went for the drill..😜
Is a shock wrench another name for pliers?🤔
If so, I've got lots of shock wrenches,LOL.
 
I had the same issue with my right front dog bone on my Talion V4. From the factory the top A-Arm had a approx. 1/32 thick spacer. What I found out was the lower A-Arm was 1/32 longer. I cut off 1/32 off the lower A-Arm and now run no spacers. No more problem. Took me awhile to figure this out. Theoretically if removing spacers isn't enough, then you could cut both down a bit.
 
Yeah a shock wrench is a multi tool, basically fancy pliers made of aluminum. Won't damage the shocks shafts and bodies. While getting good leverage for installing the rod ends for instance.:giggle: Need a firm grip and leverage to start threading in new parts.
You are pulling my chain.:ROFLMAO:
 
Yeah a shock wrench is a multi tool, basically fancy pliers made of aluminum. Won't damage the shocks shafts and bodies. While getting good leverage for installing the rod ends for instance.:giggle: Need a firm grip and leverage to start threading in new parts.
Touche!! You got me there bud!!👌🍻
IDK why I had trouble getting the Arrma shafts started in the Tekno rod ends..must have missed me Wheaties for b'fast that day😔
Have I mentioned my lack of patience, lately?🙄😉🤣🤣
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top