Kraton Dry rear diff, what would you do?

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chaosmage

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Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock 4x4
Hello, im a noob.

What would you do if you see this in your rear diff?
- clean and lube, leave it as is
- replace the diff box, clean and lube
- replace everything

And how did it all dry out? i see its my fault, but was it leaking or too much water?

IMG_0022.jpeg
 
Well I'd clean the housing as best I could.
Open up the diff and check the internals, see if that has oil. Brush off the rust on the metal parts. Diff has two o-rings inside, check and/or replace.
Shim if required, reinstall diff and shim ring side. if everything feels and turns fine, add grease on the ring and pinion. Put her back together and let her rip!
 
I would clean everything and you definitely need new bearings! If there is play in the drive cups/diff housing I would replace it. Otherwise after a few runs I would check everything again and if it’s dry again replace the housing. Is there any oil in side the diffs or are those also dry?
 
I would clean everything and you definitely need new bearings! If there is play in the drive cups/diff housing I would replace it. Otherwise after a few runs I would check everything again and if it’s dry again replace the housing. Is there any oil in side the diffs or are those also dry?
Oh forgot about the bearings ??
 
You only drive salt water bashing at beach?

You have dirty sandy rig in pictures.

Always make Rig Clean before you start take off diffs please.

You can never do a good job because all of that dirt and sand you have there.

Wash and make your rig clean next time , before you start take off parts that needs be clean and special clean take care off please.

GODDAMN

iF you drive at salt water beaches alot, you must do alot things.

Green grease. Ever heard of this ? WD40 also alot.

You need clean up your rig before you start make it better.

All sand you have in Pictures and open diff makes me MAD !
 
You only drive salt water bashing at beach?

You have dirty sandy rig in pictures.

Always make Rig Clean before you start take off diffs please.

You can never do a good job because all of that dirt and sand you have there.

Wash and make your rig clean next time , before you start take off parts that needs be clean and special clean take care off please.

GODDAMN
Haha yeah it's always good practice to clean your rig after a good bash, not saying that you don't.

I'm curious, how many runs have you gone thru your car before you checked the diffs? I think the manual says after 20 runs or 5hrs worth of run time to inspect all the diffs
 
Haha yeah it's always good practice to clean your rig after a good bash, not saying that you don't.

I'm curious, how many runs have you gone thru your car before you checked the diffs? I think the manual says after 20 runs or 5hrs worth of run time to inspect all the diffs

I always listen to my rigs.

I can hear it.
Just listen.

I do like manual says in 6s mode.

Sometimes i can hear something.
Then i Look right after this.

Bearing change is needed sometimes also.

Use green grease at diffhouse endpoints is one good and cool trick also.
100% nothing comes in bearing ways.
Extra Shim or green grease ?
Do both maybe

Listen to your rig first.
I always do it first minute before i go nuts and start sending
 
I have to agree with @kratonia, I rarely open my diffs if the whole rig is trashed with sand. (y)
That's like doing open heart surgery in the middle of a dessert sandstorm.:ROFLMAO:.
Use Green/Blue Marine grease as stated above on the ring gears, A decent amount around the gear if you plan on driving in salt water especially. Line the bottom of the bulkhead with grease to keep most water out. Or get Bulkhead gaskets (Tekjo's)
As a rule I will never run in the wet. Have I before? Yes. And that's why I don't any longer.
But that's your fun... and just requires more $$ and parts very frequently, to keep it running.?‍♂️
All your diffs need attention now. In fact the whole rig needs a lot of time in rebuilding it.
I will surmise, every single Ball Bearing is on its last leg. Buy a whole set of Rubber sealed Stainless Steel ones.( for wet running)
A rig that is run like yours in the wet, especially salt water, needs special attention before running that way. Or slowly but surely, most moving parts will avalanche to failure, part by part. All your fasteners are on their way out also. Soon to have stripped hexes.
Maybe after you spend countless hours making your rig right again, you may not want to bash in the wet so much. You have a lot of work ahead of you.:LOL:
But we all have fun bashing in different ways. RC fun is what you make of it. And all your own.
 
New stainless bearings is a must have if you drive at salty areas.
Not only Sunny beach areas. To all others too who use salt fighting Ice also.

WD40 you rig sometimes.
Use some extra grease maybe.

Get stainless screw kit, and also bearing kit . if you drive alot at salty areas

Good luck all
 
I bet there even was no grease in the bulkhead to begin with.

As others have said, you have a lot of work ahead of you to get it back on top shape. I am in the middle of such a cleaning operation and it's actually a lot of fun. Just take your time to do it right and it will be very rewarding to drive a car in perfect working order when you're done.
 
I bet there even was no grease in the bulkhead to begin with.

As others have said, you have a lot of work ahead of you to get it back on top shape. I am in the middle of such a cleaning operation and it's actually a lot of fun. Just take your time to do it right and it will be very rewarding to drive a car in perfect working order when you're done.

Indeed x 1000 about clean rigs before go deep in them.

When you self need doctors help. Will you he have old bloody things left after patient before ?
Maybe you want him have new clean ones anyway?

Same thing here.
Clean it up before you start open diffhouses please
 
New stainless bearings is a must have if you drive at salty areas.
Not only Sunny beach areas. To all others too who use salt fighting Ice also.

WD40 you rig sometimes.
Use some extra grease maybe.

Get stainless screw kit, and also bearing kit . if you drive alot at salty areas

Good luck all
Stainless screws suck IMO. They are much softer than 12.9 grade stock. The hex heads strip out if you just sneeze at them. IMHO. Been there. I run my crawlers in the mud and streams. (no salt water). I just found that SS sucked. One by one I had to replace all the SS fasteners back to Steel as they crapped out here and there.
 
Stainless screws suck IMO. They are much softer than 12.9 grade stock. The hex heads strip out if you just sneeze at them. IMHO. Been there. I run my crawlers in the mud and streams. (no salt water). I just found that SS sucked. One by one I had to replace all the SS fasteners back to Steel as they crapped out here and there.
You think some dry silicone spray on the screw heads and other areas like drive cups/dog bones & bearings will help prevent some corrosion?
 
Stainless screws suck IMO. They are much softer than 12.9 grade stock. The hex heads strip out if you just sneeze at them. IMHO. Been there. I run my crawlers in the mud and streams. (no salt water). I just found that SS sucked. One by one I had to replace all the SS fasteners back to Steel as they crapped out here and there.

If you clean and use wd40 , then stock Arrma Screws is better.

Me self Have all metal to metal screws in Titanium in my most rigs today.
Titanium is best !!!

Who cares.

Clean rigs is important, AND WD40 sometimes :)

To topic starter:
You got RPM arms already ?

You need start take care of your rig too.
Cleaning, service , oil changes, and so.

Just buy options and drive without take care of cleaning and service will end like this only.

No other got that nasty rusty looking rig here i believe.

Did you find it at Oceans of hell bottom ?
Are you diver guy ?
Maybe not RC Driver ?
 
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WD40 can cause more of a mess IMO. But the way the OP is running his rig, ANYTHING will help, and the extra mess of WD40 and the crud that sticks to it would be insignificant. WD40 is a solvent and Water Displacer that can be used but ALL excess should be removed. The stuff lingers and turns to a varnish. It is bad for bearings also, because it is a solvent and breaks down grease. It goes against lubrication. It is not even a lubricant. Perhaps no better than water and worse. will only use WD40 to clean my bearings IF I don't have anymore brake solvent lying around. Even so, you need to completely rinse the bearing or the oil or grease you replace in them will break down, and bearings will get worn/ loose and bricked real fast. I learned this 25 years ago.
 
WD40 can cause more of a mess IMO. But the way the OP is running his rig, ANYTHING will help, and the extra mess of WD40 and the crud that sticks to it would be insignificant. WD40 is a solvent and Water Displacer that can be used but ALL excess should be removed. The stuff lingers and turns to a varnish. It is bad for bearings also, because it is a solvent and breaks down grease. It goes against lubrication. It is not even a lubricant. Perhaps no better than water and worse. will only use WD40 to clean my bearings IF I don't have anymore brake solvent lying around. Even so, you need to completely rinse the bearing or the oil or grease you replace in them will break down, and bearings will get worn/ loose and bricked real fast. I learned this 25 years ago.

Silicone spray i use self today, and also Dusty cover.
I alsp clean my Dusty covers by hand and do also one Motocross special fluid mix dip and let it dry
Dirt bike cleaning stuff for pros only.
These are good stuff to RC also
 
WD40 can cause more of a mess IMO. But the way the OP is running his rig, ANYTHING will help, and the extra mess of WD40 and the crud that sticks to it would be insignificant. WD40 is a solvent and Water Displacer that can be used but ALL excess should be removed. The stuff lingers and turns to a varnish. It is bad for bearings also, because it is a solvent and breaks down grease. It goes against lubrication. It is not even a lubricant. Perhaps no better than water and worse. will only use WD40 to clean my bearings IF I don't have anymore brake solvent lying around. Even so, you need to completely rinse the bearing or the oil or grease you replace in them will break down, and bearings will get worn/ loose and bricked real fast. I learned this 25 years ago.

I use WD40 to clean the plastics parts on my RC (not on the bearings). I find it works very well...but do you think I should use something else?
 
Moto is good stuff no doubt. (y)

Have numerous DM covers, not a fan though buy hey they have some function... to depends where you bash I guess. DM has been around for several years now. There are other copy brands also. I don't know what material they use though. DM's may be a nylon of some type.IDK.

I had one DM cover go up in a flash fire on my Kraton quickly from sparks while connecting to my lipo. I emailed DM twice merely asking what material it was and why I was asking, they never replied. FWIW. Try this yourself with a spark or fire. The DM cover will torch pretty quick. I don't use the other 3 I have anymore. I have a good enough reason not to. To each his own.
Actually don't. I wont be held liable if you do this at home. But I am being serious about it .:cool:
I use WD40 to clean the plastics parts on my RC (not on the bearings). I find it works very well...but do you think I should use something else?
WD is a solvent. Sure it cleans well. Just don't spray it on the rig all over the place. IMO. spray on a cloth rag and wipe is just fine. You can clean parts off the rig well also. But to just spray all over the rig to prevent water damage goes completely against you IMHO. But hey we all have our own habits of what we think works best. I been down that road many years ago. doesn't work for me. Thats all. WD40 is all over the house, everyone has a can somewhere. And cheap, everyone grabs it because it appears to be a do it all spray. But it is not best at doing any one thing best. Great around the house for some things. Yes.
I rather use a citrus degreaser and on metal use Brake solvent spray. to clean my RC parts when they are removed.
There are so many other better products besides WD is what I am saying.
 
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