Limitless Dual Motor Limitless tp motors scorched full length chassis

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Mike Stallone just laid down a 191 with the trident after shearing one front drive shaft after the other on every 180mph+ pass. IHN has the Trident in stock should you change your mind :)
I talk with Mike almost daily and yes he’s done a couple passes so far with the new setup. It’s not something that I need my mind changed about tho. I will try it eventually.
Once scorched releases the hobao motor mount I need he should have that back in stock. The main reason I stick with my Ram Jam parts are because they are consistent and i know what to expect from them at these speeds. Testing parts at 190+ is scary 😁
 
I talk with Mike almost daily and yes he’s done a couple passes so far with the new setup. It’s not something that I need my mind changed about tho. I will try it eventually.
Once scorched releases the hobao motor mount I need he should have that back in stock. The main reason I stick with my Ram Jam parts are because they are consistent and i know what to expect from them at these speeds. Testing parts at 190+ is scary 😁
I know. I'm not really trying to change your mind on anything because you obviously know what you're doing. Your numbers speak for themselves.

And yeah...I bet it is :LOL:
 
I know. I'm not really trying to change your mind on anything because you obviously know what you're doing. Your numbers speak for themselves.

And yeah...I bet it is :LOL:
I think the trident thing is hopefully a solid fix for the ridiculous angle of the front bulkhead cup.

the future of this dual motor car will likely be more 4-6s based as well. Maybe 1-2 8s passes left with it this season.

I haven’t posted about it but I’m building another dual motor setup but on the new hobao scorched full chassis. Waiting on scorched to finish his dual mount to post more on it.
I may make a build thread even tho It’s a hobao just so everyone can see the difference of those chassis.
 
I think the trident thing is hopefully a solid fix for the ridiculous angle of the front bulkhead cup.

the future of this dual motor car will likely be more 4-6s based as well. Maybe 1-2 8s passes left with it this season.

I haven’t posted about it but I’m building another dual motor setup but on the new hobao scorched full chassis. Waiting on scorched to finish his dual mount to post more on it.
I may make a build thread even tho It’s a hobao just so everyone can see the difference of those chassis.
Yeah, it's looking good. After 12 months of development I would hope that it does what it says on the tin.

I'm trying an experiment with shimming up the rear of the front bulkhead on my Infraction to try and ameliorate some of that steep angle of the front drive cup. It seems to be solid, I moved the front upper arm spacers to the front to increase caster since I'm leveling the front bulkhead a little and I've removed almost all play in the drive shafts to keep them from oscillating front to back. I know I'm not at speeds yet where it's really necessary, but I'm trying to work out a low budget solution to the problem for when I am.

Looking forward to the new build, Arrma or not :)
 
Yeah, it's looking good. After 12 months of development I would hope that it does what it says on the tin.

I'm trying an experiment with shimming up the rear of the front bulkhead on my Infraction to try and ameliorate some of that steep angle of the front drive cup. It seems to be solid, I moved the front upper arm spacers to the front to increase caster since I'm leveling the front bulkhead a little and I've removed almost all play in the drive shafts to keep them from oscillating front to back. I know I'm not at speeds yet where it's really necessary, but I'm trying to work out a low budget solution to the problem for when I am.

Looking forward to the new build, Arrma or not :)
That’s a great idea and your also addressing the changes it makes to the suspension as well. 👍👍
 
I haven’t posted about it but I’m building another dual motor setup but on the new hobao scorched full chassis. Waiting on scorched to finish his dual mount to post more on it.
I may make a build thread even tho It’s a hobao just so everyone can see the difference of those chassis.
I would love to see that build thread. What do you consider to be the advantages of the Hobao over the Arrma speed platforms?
 
So in 1:1 cars positive caster creates high speed stability. I’ve left the stock shims where they are. If I was to move them to the front of the upper arm I should be more stable. Am I correct in thinking this translates to RC? Pic below just to be clear. View attachment 242140

You're talking about moving these shims to here?
View attachment 242141

Well, yours are where they are in the stock configuration. I had never considered moving them or what effect that might have. So the idea is that moving the shims would increase caster? If so I may need to take a look at that. I just shimmed up my front bulkhead to at the back (hope that makes sense) to level out the front center drive shaft to help alleviate stress on the shaft from the downward pointed front diff input which will obviously reduce caster a little bit. If I could recoup a little bit of that by moving the shims...not a bad thought.

Exactly. Pic for reference. View attachment 242143

Have you ever tried to move a spacer or two to the front for more caster or you just keep them in the stock location?
Here is an earlier discussion on just this question. I’ll be doing this for sure, and if all play and slop is dealt with well I may even consider filing the upper arm so an additional spacer can be used for even more caster. I’m building a SWB car and want everything I can to improve stability.
 
Ah that's right. IslandHobbyNut still has them though.
https://www.islandhobbynut.com/prod...-and-pinocchio-spool-set-limitless-infraction

Ignore the naming of the link. It's the Trident.

It was out of stock when I placed my last order from scorched. I also want to see how the trident is holding up at high speed .haven’t seen anyones test with them yet.

I may try one in the future but for now these will do just fine
FWIW, I got a notification yesterday that they’re back in stock. I finally have one on the way.
https://scorchedparts.co.uk/product...haft-limitless-v2?_pos=3&_sid=0f9c6c326&_ss=r
 
Made three passes today on 4s to get the car dialed in. Overall it feels pretty good

124,135,139

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I keep looking at y’all’s logs, trying to learn this. You’re not monitoring ripple? I thought that was the killer? Just attempting to understand all of this, it’s Greek to me. Nice pass though!
The XLX2's voltage ripple is so good that it isn't necessary. Voltage ripple you really only need to validate whether you need a cap pack or not and not something you need to keep track of on a regular basis. He does have the ESC logging it, he just doesn't have that line activated, probably to keep the graph as neat as possible. The ripple line of an XLX2 is just a little squiggle mark at the bottom of the chart anyways :)
 
The XLX2's voltage ripple is so good that it isn't necessary. Voltage ripple you really only need to validate whether you need a cap pack or not and not something you need to keep track of on a regular basis. He does have the ESC logging it, he just doesn't have that line activated, probably to keep the graph as neat as possible. The ripple line of an XLX2 is just a little squiggle mark at the bottom of the chart anyways :)
Exactly this. Yea I’ve checked ripple here and there just to confirm it’s a non issue
I keep looking at y’all’s logs, trying to learn this. You’re not monitoring ripple? I thought that was the killer? Just attempting to understand all of this, it’s Greek to me. Nice pass though!
The log zoomed in to show just the run itself helps you see how you did with throttle pull and how the batteries reacts,
Gives you an idea of how much power (watts) you pulled with the gearing your running,
I like to zoom in to just the full throttle portion of the run. To me this is the most important info. Seeing your average holding voltage at full throttle.
In this case 14.9 with a start voltage of 16.8 on the battery roughly 88-89% voltage at full throttle. I tried to keep that number above 80%.
There’s a lot of other things to look at and compare as well but that’s a good start
 
Wanted to update this. When I rebuilt the car and got the first three 4s passes the other day the car already needed another rear input bearing. So I decided to installed the other vitavon housing I had as the front one seemed to be holding up well.
4 passes now on this bearing and zero play so far, it still spins smooth when I pulled the driveshaft out to check it. I’ll try to get one more session before pulling the bearing to replace.

Also decided to do the 0 toe rear EMP plate since I’m running the aluminum arms that won’t flex I am confident the toe will stay 0 during the power of the run.


EBAFC75E-2C0F-4DAA-ABA7-0FB79982550C.jpeg

A08BC15A-7532-43F0-B68F-FF1A4601764E.jpeg
 
Wanted to keep this updated mostly to keep track for myself the runs I’ve done,

1st gearing setup
1st session
4s 144mph
7s 97% throttle 176

Tires lost 2
Bearings changed
———————
2nd session
7s 187
7s 183 same charge

Tires lost 2
Bearings + new front shaft
———————
3rd session
7s 188
7s 186 same charge

Tires lost 4
Bearings changed
———————
4th session lowered gearing (-40mph geared to speed)
7s 181

Tires lost 2
Bearings changed + new front shaft
———————
5th session same gearing
8s 1st pass no gps read
8s 191 same charge

Tires lost 6

——————
6th session
192mph crash

—————
7th session (after rebuild)
4s 139
4s 147
———
4s 149
—————
8th session
4s 153
6s 159 70% throttle
6s 163 70% throttle

——————
9th session
8s 80% throttle 180mph
8s 90% throttle 191mph
8s 95% throttle 191mph spun out
 
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