E Revo 2.0 diffs compared to arrma diffs.

[olds97_lss]

Ready for the crazy thing that takes so much money to do? I don’t think you are.
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OH THE HUMANITY. TOOK A FULL $8.50 INCLUDING THE LONG SCREWS TO MAKE THE REAR INDESCRUCTIBLE (well I mean durable enough to survive big jumps, hard hits still break a arms like any other rc)

So far I broke a front left lower arm when a nail caught it while going up a ramp, and the upper front right from smashing a tree mid air at top speed LoL. Shockshaft also bent 70 degrees but I was able to straighten it and it’s been fine.

I made my own for the v1 out of some clothesline cable I got at lowes when I made limiters for my 5B.

I didn't really have issues ripping the ends off until I put the 3.8 trenchers on. Then I ripped shock ends and pushrod ends off twice in the first day after installing the wheels/tires. Been fine since I made limiters.

 

[olds97_lss]

.15= the 2.5. Same displacement.

The original had the .15 pro, rotary carb/side exhaust. Then the 2.5, slide carb/rear exhaust. I never had the .15 pro, but to quote another on here, I wouldn't piss on a traxxas 2.5/2.5R if it was on fire. I didn't care for the 3.3 much either... lol!

 

[DoNoHarm]

I made my own for the v1 out of some clothesline cable I got at lowes when I made limiters for my 5B.

I didn't really have issues ripping the ends off until I put the 3.8 trenchers on. Then I ripped shock ends and pushrod ends off twice in the first day after installing the wheels/tires. Been fine since I made limiters.

The original had the .15 pro, rotary carb/side exhaust. Then the 2.5, slide carb/rear exhaust. I never had the .15 pro, but to quote another on here, I wouldn't piss on a traxxas 2.5/2.5R if it was on fire. I didn't care for the 3.3 much either... lol!

Dang that’s ingenuity at its finest.

Anyway about the .15, I talked about it right here. My bad if it looked like I was saying they were the same thing.

Are you sure it was the 2.5 or .15? They were the same size but the old ones were referred to as the .15. I never had one that old.

(Same size, different design, as you said)
Would you say the old .15’s were the best? (Even though you never drove one) I drove a 3.3 once and it was a p.o.w.e.r house!

 

[olds97_lss]

Would you say the old .15’s were the best? (Even though you never drove one) I drove a 3.3 once and it was a p.o.w.e.r house!

The old 15 pro was a solid engine, but didn't perform as well as the 2.5/2.5R. The 3.3 was ok, but wasn't something I'd ever run again. The first 3.3 I had came in a used revo. I thought perhaps it was treated poorly/broken in bad. So, I bought a new 3.3 and broke it in how I do all my engines and it performed pretty much the same. It was better than the 2.5R, but it wasn't like going from a small block to a big block. It worked better in the shorter revo, but in the 3.3 extended revo chassis, it felt really blah. Even with a THS high torque pipe and 25% nitro. I compared it to my old OS18TM I had used many years previous in my first nitro revo and even it, with at least 8 gallons through it, performed better than the 3.3 that only had a gallon or so through it.

I replaced it with an OS21TM, then had to upgrade the trans to RRP steel as I was shearing pins and burning up gears. Now it's a fun truck. Doesn't compare to my LRP28 revo, but fun none the less.

I doubt I'd ever try a nitro revo again unless traxxas comes out with an even more powerful engine. It just costs too much to make it perform how I want. The OS21TM was nearly $300. Combined with $100 worth of RRP gears. Fitting a true big block in isn't much cheaper.

 

[DoNoHarm]

The old 15 pro was a solid engine, but didn't perform as well as the 2.5/2.5R. The 3.3 was ok, but wasn't something I'd ever run again. The first 3.3 I had came in a used revo. I thought perhaps it was treated poorly/broken in bad. So, I bought a new 3.3 and broke it in how I do all my engines and it performed pretty much the same. It was better than the 2.5R, but it wasn't like going from a small block to a big block. It worked better in the shorter revo, but in the 3.3 extended revo chassis, it felt really blah. Even with a THS high torque pipe and 25% nitro. I compared it to my old OS18TM I had used many years previous in my first nitro revo and even it, with at least 8 gallons through it, performed better than the 3.3 that only had a gallon or so through it.

I replaced it with an OS21TM, then had to upgrade the trans to RRP steel as I was shearing pins and burning up gears. Now it's a fun truck. Doesn't compare to my LRP28 revo, but fun none the less.

I doubt I'd ever try a nitro revo again unless traxxas comes out with an even more powerful engine. It just costs too much to make it perform how I want. The OS21TM was nearly $300. Combined with $100 worth of RRP gears. Fitting a true big block in isn't much cheaper.

I wouldn’t be surprised if your tests were actually fully conclusive. I probably just didn’t take care of my 2.5 so when I used a 3.3 it seemed like a whole other world. I definitely agree with the powerful engine thing. For their heavy 8th scale MT’s, there’s not enough grunt in those engines.

 

[Full Throttle R/C]

I

Not saying Traxxas is great. They’re not. Just a common thing that gets brought up a lot of people not believing me when I say the e revo 2.0 diffs are insanely huge compared to the arrma 6s ones. Here’s some pics.
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Just want to say why I did this.
Obviously the arrma 6s line diffs are fine, but the difference between the arrma and revo diffs is the difference between fine and overkill. Fine means it does the job. Normal diff. It’ll wear out eventually. Make sure to shim it good because the teeth don’t have much profile.. etc. Drive it normally and don’t try to do standing backflips for a whole battery.

Overkill means, well what it is. Overkill. 8s worthy, by far. No wear at all unshimmed. Standing backflips for DAYS. No shims needed, the teeth are extremely meaty. No spiral needed, they’re so oversized. That’s the original diff for this truck, 180 runs of 6s through it. Talk about mileage! Did I mention it has 1 million weight center diff fluid? It’s LOCKED. Out of the factory. That rear diff is under some stress!


Just some food for thought. I’m not trying to make you buy an e revo and I really don’t want you to. Buy a nero, it’ll be better. (It won’t be better I just said this to avoid hate)

Pretty cool??


Edit: that arrma diff looks stripped next to the revo diff. Just want you to know it’s not, it’s in full working order. Haven’t had problems but I’m worried on sticking high weight center diff fluid in because I’m thinking it’ll bust.

Edit 2: I retract my statement when I said arrma diffs are fine. I only said it so people wouldn’t hate but clearly it didn’t help. That said, let me be honest. They’re not fine, they don’t hold up in the larger 6s trucks. Many shred them every 20-30 runs on 6 cell lipo which is completely unacceptable and deserves to be redesigned. People always say these things are “arrma tough” but from what I hear, these diffs aren’t much better at all compared to the e revo generation 1, aka the worst diff breaker ever. Just like e revo v1 users, many resorted to using 4s in their trucks because the diffs are so bad.

I say different. I own an erevo 2.0 as well. After about 6 runs.... No major crashes here's what happened

 

[olds97_lss]

I

I say different. I own an erevo 2.0 as well. After about 6 runs.... No major crashes here's what happened

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I find mine have a tendency to rip out of I have the toe set to be toed out in the front. Almost have to have it with zero toe or even a little toe in. On a hard nose landing, the force is too great and rips the pillow balls out of the arms as the tires are trying to steer away from each other. Sucks though, because it drives better with a bit of toe out. Well, drives better for me.

I just put lunsford tierods on the front of mine (modified true track on the rear, no tie rods) and I reset my toe to be about 1/8th inch wider (almost zero) on the front edge of the tire vs the back. I run RPM arms in the front as well, but they have issues with clearance, so if I destroy those, I'm going back to stock 2.0 arms.

My diffs are still original after 2 hard seasons of 6S running. I did pull them apart when I got it and replaced the bearings, (got it used in 2019), but otherwise, the diffs are holding up perfectly.

I'm on my 3rd set of diff output cups though. They seem to not last that long. Half to 3/4 of a season. At $20 a pair shipped, it's not horrible... just odd that they don't hold up better considering how big they are.