Typhon EC5? IC5? Omg XT90?

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SpinRush_C1

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Arrma RC's
  1. Typhon 6s
Sorry for the wrong prefix. I didn’t see the Typhon Prefix.
My 2nd thread as I search for answers. I just bought my first R/C Typhon 6S. Very cool toy. I suck at most technical things. I’m super scared of electrical shock. With the help of other members here, I’ve finally come to understand what kind of battery to get for my Typhon 6S. I want to have fun on all terrains so I’m not trying to go to heavy. However, there are so many “connection types” that I’m confused.

The ONE THING I don’t want to do is soldering if it’s possible to avoid that.
Typhon 6S comes preset with an IC5 connector, correct?
That means I need to get an EC5 Lipo, correct?
When I search for Turnigy Lipos ( Highly Recommended ) they come with something called an XT90 connection.
** I don’t want to do soldering if I can avoid it **

I looked at some alternative solutions. Please see the pics below. Are any of these a good workaround to avoid soldering? I want more of a plug and play experience. If you solder something, it can’t be undone, right?
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This is the battery I run:
Yowoo 6S Lipo Battery, 22.2V Graphene Lipo Battery 5000mAh 100C EC5 Plug for RC DJI EDF Airplane Quadcopter Helicopter Car Truck Boat Hobby https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M9R3Z9H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ICY7Db2CVZCR9

It was a noticable difference in power coming from a 2 3S Gen's Ace 45C lipos. These (I have the 6S & 4S) were very well made, have taken a beating, and have stayed within 0.01v of each cell even 60+ cycles later.??
Don’t be afraid of soldering, good skill to pick up in this hobby. Tons of YT vids to pick up basics. Buy a good iron and practice. You’ll get it. Save you money in the long term.
Very true, if not for soldering I would not have been able to save servo leads, recycle fans, install connectors, make adapters, and on & on. But don't feel pressured to do it right away. If you want xt90 connectors just take your car to a hobby shop if you have one, for $5-$10 a professional will ensure a clean job. If not a hobby shop, then make a post on craigslist, I'm sure you'll find local RC hobbyists willing to help.
 
Don’t be afraid of soldering, good skill to pick up in this hobby. Tons of YT vids to pick up basics. Buy a good iron and practice. You’ll get it. Save you money in the long term.
I would say soldering is almost mandatory in this hobby. But yes always a good to have.
 
Don’t be afraid of soldering, good skill to pick up in this hobby. Tons of YT vids to pick up basics. Buy a good iron and practice. You’ll get it. Save you money in the long term.
Okay Brandon. I’m going to try to find the easiest battery I can use, but......but just in case, I ordered a soldering kit and couple other items I can use for other things. I decided I no longer care about all the IKEA furniture in the house. I’m going to give soldering a try first chance I get.

You are right. When we get to the zombie apocalypse I may need these skills to be selected by Rick and his group.
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Just buy from SMC, you can choose the specific connector and they will solder it for you.

But yeah, i can relate to what you said, it took me a full year in the hobby before i bought my soldering iron.
 
I uploaded this noob video of me trying to understand what’s what.
 
Try to avoid the adapter connector. They just add another connection to come unplugged.
Unfortunately, there are clunkers out there like the SRR & SBR that uses a devil system so if your battery cables aren't long enough you have to use adapters. Also all my batteries are XT90s & I hate EC5s with a passion. I made a few adapters & soldering the EC5 side may as well be a lvl in hell. I tempted replacing the EC5s in both trucks but dealing with that was even more of a PITA so I left them alone. The adapters worked fine so far even with heavy bashing the SRR. I just twist tie the connectors.
 
For a while I ran a battery with an ec5 in an esc with xt90, it worked just fine. With adapters sometimes I’ll ran a twisty tie thru the wire pairs to keep them secure. The twisting tie also will let loose in severe events so the wires won’t pull out of the esc. I don’t know if it’s my connectors or all ec5’s but they do come unplugged more than my xt90.
 
I uploaded this noob video of me trying to understand what’s what.
First thing, the C rating has nothing to do with temps. It has to do with Charge rate or Discharge rate. Just know that the C rating tells you how fast you can draw or charge your lipo (pronounced Lie-poe).

Second issue is your lipo has an XT90 antispark (yellow with green) connector, which is a good connector. Just happens that the Arrmas come with an IC5 connector (Orange). Yes you will need to change one or the other. Would be better to change the battery IMO since they gave you the EC5 connector, which assumes swapping that doesn’t affect your warranty. Changing the ESC may affect your warranty.

The balance lead, if long enough, gets tucked towards the center of the truck under a little rubber strap. Yours looks a little short to reach that spot, so just make sure it gets wrapped under the Velcro strap well to prevent it from flapping around. If it flaps around it could break a wire inside.

To take apart the XT90, slide off the rear of the connector (see below). Be careful to never allow the two ends to touch. If the two battery leads touch, the battery will dead short and cause a fire. This will be a very bad thing. I’m going to say be very careful here and don’t do this indoors where a fire will take out your home. Take it outside or in the garage away from other flammable items. Best thing is to only work on one wire at a time and secure the second side with electrical tape and a rubber band to hold it in place against the battery.

19A20A17-D66F-4A27-82CD-BB6F73ED369F.jpeg


When charging in the lipo bag, just let the leads out and zip it as closed as you can without harming the wires. It won’t be sealed. Charge outdoors or in a fire safe place.
 
First thing, the C rating has nothing to do with temps. It has to do with Charge rate or Discharge rate. Just know that the C rating tells you how fast you can draw or charge your lipo (pronounced Lie-poe).

Second issue is your lipo has an XT90 antispark (yellow with green) connector, which is a good connector. Just happens that the Arrmas come with an IC5 connector (Orange). Yes you will need to change one or the other. Would be better to change the battery IMO since they gave you the EC5 connector, which assumes swapping that doesn’t affect your warranty. Changing the ESC may affect your warranty.

The balance lead, if long enough, gets tucked towards the center of the truck under a little rubber strap. Yours looks a little short to reach that spot, so just make sure it gets wrapped under the Velcro strap well to prevent it from flapping around. If it flaps around it could break a wire inside.

To take apart the XT90, slide off the rear of the connector (see below). Be careful to never allow the two ends to touch. If the two battery leads touch, the battery will dead short and cause a fire. This will be a very bad thing. I’m going to say be very careful here and don’t do this indoors where a fire will take out your home. Take it outside or in the garage away from other flammable items. Best thing is to only work on one wire at a time and secure the second side with electrical tape and a rubber band to hold it in place against the battery.

View attachment 56850

When charging in the lipo bag, just let the leads out and zip it as closed as you can without harming the wires. It won’t be sealed. Charge outdoors or in a fire safe place.
I actually use the lead holder on the strap to hold the balance plug, and run my leads around the back of the center tower like this.
20191210_065331.jpg


That's because those balance leads with the protective "case" don't fit in the tray holder?
 
I actually use the lead holder on the strap to hold the balance plug, and run my leads around the back of the center tower like this.
View attachment 56851

That's because those balance leads with the protective "case" don't fit in the tray holder?
Take the case off.
 
I’m going to give soldering a try first chance I get.


Wish you had asked before you bough that stick. The biggest issue people have with soldering is using a cheap iron- low wattage- so nowhere near enough heat, and also very slow. Just leads to frustration and bad connections that fail.

A good solder iron/gun makes a *HUGE* difference- quick easy solid and done.
 
Wish you had asked before you bough that stick. The biggest issue people have with soldering is using a cheap iron- low wattage- so nowhere near enough heat, and also very slow. Just leads to frustration and bad connections that fail.

A good solder iron/gun makes a *HUGE* difference- quick easy solid and done.
I can probably cancel the order still. What do you recommend?

P.S: 480°C is not hot enough?
 
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