Typhon EC5? IC5? Omg XT90?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Went to TamTam which is one of the biggest Hobby shops here in Japan. Went there seeking out experienced professional assistance. Here’s what I discovered:

The Goldbit 5000 6S batteries I purchased have XT90 connectors them as a default. I learned that in Japan the XT60 is the most popular. The guy who helped me was very friendly and decided to solder on of them on the spot. Free of charge, I might add. He did them one by one. He didn’t do it like the video I watched though. In fact, he let the solder harden up in the next connector before trying to bring the battery wire over. Also, he didn’t add any solder to the battery lead wire.

Then, he used electrical tape as close as he could to the plastic connector ( blue cover ). He took at look at some of my Amazon purchases. He said the soldering kit I ordered was too weak. “You guessed it. You was right”. Kidding. I need to order a stronger soldering kit. Japan voltage is only 100v so I’ll see what I can find.

I think I’m going to shop around for batteries that have the EC5 connectors as default. Might be tricky cause not everybody ships to Japan. The guy seemed a bit concerned that the connection may come apart while using the vehicle. I’ve got figure this out.

Another thing I learned today, after visiting a Hobby shop for the first time, is that 1/8 scale models are not popular in Japan. The biggest R/C models that they had on the shelves were 1/10 buggies. TamTam has a circuit up on the roof. No jumps at all. I’m a bit worried that my 1/8 scale buggy might piss some people off. I think I better stick to parks and empty construction sites.

Good news, I have one battery now. I also picked up some much needed supplies to do the soldering myself. When I do attempt to solder a battery connector, I’m going to record the whole process. Of course, if I do something wrong, I may not be around to upload it.
 
I just cut all my Deans T connections and soldered all EC5's on them. Once you get the hang of it, you'll be soldering everything.
Only thing to be aware of is how they go into the plastic cup. Take note of what the brass insert looks like because the one with the hole at the end enters the plastic plug from the rear and the insert with the half moon has to enter from the front of the plastic plug, which means you have to put your wire thru the plug first.
Can be a bit confusing, but search EC5 soldering on YouTube and it will help you heaps like it did me.
Check out my pics for the different plugs.
Hope this helps.
 

Attachments

  • Front entry.jpg
    Front entry.jpg
    40.8 KB · Views: 53
  • Rear entry.jpg
    Rear entry.jpg
    40.7 KB · Views: 43
Went to TamTam which is one of the biggest Hobby shops here in Japan. Went there seeking out experienced professional assistance. Here’s what I discovered:

The Goldbit 5000 6S batteries I purchased have XT90 connectors them as a default. I learned that in Japan the XT60 is the most popular. The guy who helped me was very friendly and decided to solder on of them on the spot. Free of charge, I might add. He did them one by one. He didn’t do it like the video I watched though. In fact, he let the solder harden up in the next connector before trying to bring the battery wire over. Also, he didn’t add any solder to the battery lead wire.

Then, he used electrical tape as close as he could to the plastic connector ( blue cover ). He took at look at some of my Amazon purchases. He said the soldering kit I ordered was too weak. “You guessed it. You was right”. Kidding. I need to order a stronger soldering kit. Japan voltage is only 100v so I’ll see what I can find.

I think I’m going to shop around for batteries that have the EC5 connectors as default. Might be tricky cause not everybody ships to Japan. The guy seemed a bit concerned that the connection may come apart while using the vehicle. I’ve got figure this out.

Another thing I learned today, after visiting a Hobby shop for the first time, is that 1/8 scale models are not popular in Japan. The biggest R/C models that they had on the shelves were 1/10 buggies. TamTam has a circuit up on the roof. No jumps at all. I’m a bit worried that my 1/8 scale buggy might piss some people off. I think I better stick to parks and empty construction sites.

Good news, I have one battery now. I also picked up some much needed supplies to do the soldering myself. When I do attempt to solder a battery connector, I’m going to record the whole process. Of course, if I do something wrong, I may not be around to upload it.
Glad you are at least heading in the right direction. It just takes a little time getting into the hobby. If you avoid common mistakes you will be just fine. Now get out there and piss some people off and have some fun! ??
 
I just cut all my Deans T connections and soldered all EC5's on them. Once you get the hang of it, you'll be soldering everything.
Only thing to be aware of is how they go into the plastic cup. Take note of what the brass insert looks like because the one with the hole at the end enters the plastic plug from the rear and the insert with the half moon has to enter from the front of the plastic plug, which means you have to put your wire thru the plug first.
Can be a bit confusing, but search EC5 soldering on YouTube and it will help you heaps like it did me.
Check out my pics for the different plugs.
Hope this helps.
Yeah, that is pretty confusing. One thing I got from it though is that yesterday we did that totally wrong then. The guy soldered the connection first then he fitted the blue plastic piece over it and pushed ( forced ) the wires into the blue plastic cup.

When soldering the wires, the guy soldered the battery lead wire in the half spoon like part of the connector. Leaving the hollow tube like area for the connection untouched.

P.S: I took your advice and picked up a couple of the items you suggested.
E60AF24C-FB9B-4E8F-9ECC-9340F35858FD.png
6FFEDE45-FC13-454B-9544-E5F34590C576.png
 
Last edited:
Yeah, that is pretty confusing. One thing I got from it though is that yesterday we did that totally wrong then. The guy soldered the connection first then he fitted the blue plastic piece over it and pushed ( forced ) the wires into the blue plastic cup.

When soldering the wires, the guy soldered the battery lead wire in the half spoon like part of the connector. Leaving the hollow tube like area for the connection untouched.
It depends on the brand of connector. My XT150 Amass connectors need the plastic part on the wire before the metal connector is soldered on. But I’ve also had some EC5 connectors that you push a soldered connector into the back of the plastic plug. It all depends on the way it is designed by the manufacturer.
 
Look at this beauty here. Comes with EC5 default. Is that sexy or not?
B3BE9350-EDA1-49E9-B6AE-7E6529652DC9.png

JACKPOT! I think I just found the mother lode. 2 for 1 with EC5 connectors by default. I can get em faster and cheaper.
C7A46931-471B-4FFF-A054-655B327E1615.png
 
Last edited:
Okay Brandon. I’m going to try to find the easiest battery I can use, but......but just in case, I ordered a soldering kit and couple other items I can use for other things. I decided I no longer care about all the IKEA furniture in the house. I’m going to give soldering a try first chance I get.

You are right. When we get to the zombie apocalypse I may need these skills to be selected by Rick and his group.View attachment 56818View attachment 56819
I truly understand that soldering is not for some people. And if you have someone else to do it for you. That's great. I've been that person for many. But soldering is part of the hobby in my opinion. It needs to get done here and there. It simplifies a lot if you can do it yourself. Soldering can be a hobby unto itself. If you make the investment, and practice, you wont need to buy Lipos that are always plug specific. It opens up more options with lipos and pricing. And adapters create needless inefficient resistance along a circuit.
 
I can probably cancel the order still. What do you recommend?

P.S: 480°C is not hot enough?
Soldering 10 and 12 gauge plugs and wires needs approx.780Deg F. temps and a large iron tip. A cheap iron will frustrate anyone especially someone learning how to solder. I do have a tiny iron. I take it out rarely. Usually when soldering servo leads( 22 gauge wire) or when I want to heat up Threadlocked fasteners.
Went to TamTam which is one of the biggest Hobby shops here in Japan. Went there seeking out experienced professional assistance. Here’s what I discovered:

The Goldbit 5000 6S batteries I purchased have XT90 connectors them as a default. I learned that in Japan the XT60 is the most popular. The guy who helped me was very friendly and decided to solder on of them on the spot. Free of charge, I might add. He did them one by one. He didn’t do it like the video I watched though. In fact, he let the solder harden up in the next connector before trying to bring the battery wire over. Also, he didn’t add any solder to the battery lead wire.

Then, he used electrical tape as close as he could to the plastic connector ( blue cover ). He took at look at some of my Amazon purchases. He said the soldering kit I ordered was too weak. “You guessed it. You was right”. Kidding. I need to order a stronger soldering kit. Japan voltage is only 100v so I’ll see what I can find.

I think I’m going to shop around for batteries that have the EC5 connectors as default. Might be tricky cause not everybody ships to Japan. The guy seemed a bit concerned that the connection may come apart while using the vehicle. I’ve got figure this out.

Another thing I learned today, after visiting a Hobby shop for the first time, is that 1/8 scale models are not popular in Japan. The biggest R/C models that they had on the shelves were 1/10 buggies. TamTam has a circuit up on the roof. No jumps at all. I’m a bit worried that my 1/8 scale buggy might piss some people off. I think I better stick to parks and empty construction sites.

Good news, I have one battery now. I also picked up some much needed supplies to do the soldering myself. When I do attempt to solder a battery connector, I’m going to record the whole process. Of course, if I do something wrong, I may not be around to upload it.
XT60 for a 6S pack??????? That's not good, not correct! No shrink wrap??? why electrical tape??? XT60's may work with a low amp draw 6S ESC in a Quad(copter), not for high amp draw ESC's in our 6S Arrma rigs's.
 
Last edited:
I truly understand that soldering is not for some people. And if you have someone else to do it for you. That's great. I've been that person for many. But soldering is part of the hobby in my opinion. It needs to get done here and there. It simplifies a lot if you can do it yourself. Soldering can be a hobby unto itself. If you make the investment, and practice, you wont need to buy Lipos that are always plug specific. It opens up more options with lipos and pricing. And adapters create needless inefficient resistance along a circuit.
Oh, I ordered the soldering kit. I’m a man of my word. For the time being, I really want to get out there with this Typhon 6S and see what it can do. I’ve never in my life had one of these things. This thing is really cool.

One thing to note. I do realize that I’m in over my head. I purchased a 1/8 scale Typhon with no experience at all. I probably should have started a lot smaller. When I went to the Japanese HobbyShop TamTam, I immediately noticed they did not have 1/8 scale cars. Most of the stuff they had was 1/10 or smaller.

There I was standing there, 6*4, with a monstrous 1/8 scale buggy balanced in my hand like a waiter. Excuse me, I’m kind of new to this. What’s this wire right here? Also, do you have a place where I can drive this thing?
Of these two, I would choose the first 100C lipo over the two pack of 50C.
Because????
 
Oh, I ordered the soldering kit. I’m a man of my word. For the time being, I really want to get out there with this Typhon 6S and see what it can do. I’ve never in my life had one of these things. This thing is really cool.

One thing to note. I do realize that I’m in over my head. I purchased a 1/8 scale Typhon with no experience at all. I probably should have started a lot smaller. When I went to the Japanese HobbyShop TamTam, I immediately noticed they did not have 1/8 scale cars. Most of the stuff they had was 1/10 or smaller.

There I was standing there, 6*4, with a monstrous 1/8 scale buggy balanced in my hand like a waiter. Excuse me, I’m kind of new to this. What’s this wire right here? Also, do you have a place where I can drive this thing?

Because????
Because the output rating is higher (100C) and that makes it better. The 50C units are lower output. When looking at C ratings from a single brand, always buy their highest rated packs. You will have much better success driving with a higher quality lipo. They should last longer too.
 
Oh, I ordered the soldering kit. I’m a man of my word. For the time being, I really want to get out there with this Typhon 6S and see what it can do. I’ve never in my life had one of these things. This thing is really cool.

One thing to note. I do realize that I’m in over my head. I purchased a 1/8 scale Typhon with no experience at all. I probably should have started a lot smaller. When I went to the Japanese HobbyShop TamTam, I immediately noticed they did not have 1/8 scale cars. Most of the stuff they had was 1/10 or smaller.

There I was standing there, 6*4, with a monstrous 1/8 scale buggy balanced in my hand like a waiter. Excuse me, I’m kind of new to this. What’s this wire right here? Also, do you have a place where I can drive this thing?

Because????
50c is borderline minimum in real world use. Even though the manual states 35C min. 60C and up is always the objective. Price and budget being the limitation. Higher is better. 1/8 scale and above is way different than 1/10 scale and below. 1/10 seems to be more mainstream and affordable and where most jump in to this hobby. 1/10 scale requires much less space to run. 1/8 and above require a half acre and more to open them up.
 
Last edited:
Because the output rating is higher (100C) and that makes it better. The 50C units are lower output. When looking at C ratings from a single brand, always buy their highest rated packs. You will have much better success driving with a higher quality lipo. They should last longer too.
Gotcha. Last question, 1 should be enough for at least an hour of driving?
 
Gotcha. Last question, 1 should be enough for at least an hour of driving?
figure on 20 min give or take with a light finger and non stop driving running stock pinion and electrics.
 
Don’t be afraid of soldering, good skill to pick up in this hobby. Tons of YT vids to pick up basics. Buy a good iron and practice. You’ll get it. Save you money in the long term.
Agreed100%. A good iron is $20. Solder and paste. Watch a few vids. It is something you will always use.
 
$20. for a good iron??? :unsure: If the iron can push min. 500degF. That's a start.
 
Gotcha. Last question, 1 should be enough for at least an hour of driving?
yes if you charge it three times ??
Agreed100%. A good iron is $20. Solder and paste. Watch a few vids. It is something you will always use.
You have a link? I’m thinking $100 is entry level for a new decent iron for this hobby.
 
Just got back here. Ugh. Threads like this make my head hurt.

XT60 is WRONG for these cars. XT90 was there for a reason.

Also- sounds like a hackjob soldering. You want the most metal to metal contact as possible, as solid as possible as well. I put the wires in as far as possible- and wick as much solder in as it will take, which is why a high temp iron is needed. The wire and connectors will suck a lot of heat to do it right.

Look at my post here- https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...ypes-choosing-and-soldering.10224/post-114344

My gun is 140 watt. What you bought is 70 watt. Not nearly enough IMO.

Yah that is an XT60 in my pic- I was making XT60 to XT90 adaptors for my charger. No way I would run XT60 in my cars.


Worth every penny- https://www.ebay.com/p/1101656574

Read up- https://stevenjohnson.com/soldering/weller.htm
 
Last edited:
Imo typhon will handle much better with those lighter 50c packs. Suspension is already lacking in that heavy buggy...
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top