Typhon EC5? IC5? Omg XT90?

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Just got back here. Ugh. Threads like this make my head hurt.

XT60 is WRONG for these cars. XT90 was there for a reason.

Also- sounds like a hackjob soldering. You want the most metal to metal contact as possible, as solid as possible as well. I put the wires in as far as possible- and wick as much solder in as it will take, which is why a high temp iron is needed. The wire and connectors will suck a lot of heat to do it right.

Look at my post here- https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...ypes-choosing-and-soldering.10224/post-114344

My gun is 140 watt. What you bought is 70 watt. Not nearly enough IMO.

Yah that is an XT60 in my pic- I was making XT60 to XT90 adaptors for my charger. No way I would run XT60 in my cars.


Worth every penny- https://www.ebay.com/p/1101656574

Read up- https://stevenjohnson.com/soldering/weller.htm
Perhaps, I wrote that up wrong. When I mentioned that XT60 is the most popular connection in Japan, that was meant for their smaller cars. In my case, Typhon 6S, I’m going to use the EC5. The pictures I posted earlier of the batteries I found on Amazon.co.jp are the ones that I ordered. I’ll practice soldering as soon as I go on winter vacation starting from December 20th.

I listened very carefully to the post about soldering tools. I ordered the stronger soldering unit that JonDilly suggested. I’ll still keep the smaller kit that I ordered for other projects.

I am a bit hesitant to use the battery that I had soldered at the TamTam Hobby Center I went to. The staff were extremely kind though. I thought I would have to pay for that but he did it for free after listening to my case.

Considering the fact that I am very inexperienced at this, I will be patient and wait for the batteries that I ordered to arrive. It would be a total waste for me to burn out my ESC or at the very worst destroy the Typhon completely.

The pictures below are all of the products I have ordered for this project.
Not picture: Electrical tape, Silver Solder wire, wire cutters and cutters, dual zip up Velcro Lipo bags, HTRC C250 dual charger.

Once I get past this “Choose the best Lipo Stage”, I will move towards a new remote controller, wireless antennas, and adding custom body accessories. Of course, those will be different threads.
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Imo typhon will handle much better with those lighter 50c packs. Suspension is already lacking in that heavy buggy...
I agree... and it's more than enough IMO. Very rarely do you smoke an esc from a battery of too low c rating. Yes it happens but not too often. But 50C??! That'll never torch an esc... unless either the esc is made like garbage and has real awful caps or the battery is absolutely completely and superbly overrated.
 
Stop worrying about wires and just drive it :)
6S for a beginner is extreme imho but not impossible. Just go light on the throttle which is easier said than done. You will most likely break something else before wires become an issue but that is part of the fun!

For soldering battery wires, you should use an 80W (or higher) soldering iron with a broad tip, ventilation is a plus.
When cutting battery wires, cut one at a time or you short the wires and you get smoke. Practice on anything but batteries.
I have a Hakko for everything smaller than battery wires and a cheap soldering iron (80W) for the big stuff. This station can barely do the big wires, extremely frustrating and not recommended. I did work on 2 batteries and gave up, it's possible but not recommended.

I have 2 solder tips in my inventory, never had a need for assortments (pointy tip-Hakko, braod tip on 80W). Solder suction kit is useless in my opinion. I have a silimilar to the one you show and stopped using it many moons ago. This will spray solder all over the area and cause issues, easier to just 'shake it off the wire'. On smaller electronics its a killer due to the spring mechanism and subsequent solder splattering.

3rd hand is almost mandatory, stuff does get warm and you never have enough hands. Use heat-shrink, don't use electrical tape. Tape is ok but will come loose eventually. That is an easy catch though i.e. don't let it stop you from having fun.
If you use XT90, with the safety cap, all you need is solder, hence my preference for those.

Again, you have an awesome car. Use it and learn as you go along. Key is to actually use it :)
 
Stop worrying about wires and just drive it :)
6S for a beginner is extreme imho but not impossible. Just go light on the throttle which is easier said than done. You will most likely break something else before wires become an issue but that is part of the fun!

For soldering battery wires, you should use an 80W (or higher) soldering iron with a broad tip, ventilation is a plus.
When cutting battery wires, cut one at a time or you short the wires and you get smoke. Practice on anything but batteries.
I have a Hakko for everything smaller than battery wires and a cheap soldering iron (80W) for the big stuff. This station can barely do the big wires, extremely frustrating and not recommended. I did work on 2 batteries and gave up, it's possible but not recommended.

I have 2 solder tips in my inventory, never had a need for assortments (pointy tip-Hakko, braod tip on 80W). Solder suction kit is useless in my opinion. I have a silimilar to the one you show and stopped using it many moons ago. This will spray solder all over the area and cause issues, easier to just 'shake it off the wire'. On smaller electronics its a killer due to the spring mechanism and subsequent solder splattering.

3rd hand is almost mandatory, stuff does get warm and you never have enough hands. Use heat-shrink, don't use electrical tape. Tape is ok but will come loose eventually. That is an easy catch though i.e. don't let it stop you from having fun.
If you use XT90, with the safety cap, all you need is solder, hence my preference for those.

Again, you have an awesome car. Use it and learn as you go along. Key is to actually use it :)
Imo typhon will handle much better with those lighter 50c packs. Suspension is already lacking in that heavy buggy...
I never figured a higher C rating would be any significant weight difference. All lipo's vary in weight with hardcase being a tad heavier. The higher the Mah, going from a 5000mah to a 7200mah may be significant however. Anyone agree? (y)or (n).
 
I never figured a higher C rating would be any significant weight difference. All lipo's vary in weight with hardcase being a tad heavier. The higher the Mah, going from a 5000mah to a 7200mah may be significant however. Anyone agree? (y)or (n).
I don't know it to be true, but it would be logical to me if that was true.
 
That Hakko is my favorite soldering iron for a $100. Makes 8 AWG wires soldering possible... also by a exhaust fan. I got this one and it works well and have some heft to it as well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07VWDN29F?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

I use flux to solder cause I’m still pretty new to it, but damn it makes it a ton easier!
Hako is great.
I use Flux. But I don't use much and not always. Flux can cause corrosion within the fine strands in the wiring jacket. Flux helps solder flow easily and fast and does make things easier. But corrosion will form where the Flux flowed to within the wiring and fail, causing arcing and resistance. And it is not usually visible until it happens. I experienced that several times. Flux is good if used very sparingly and you wipe clean the solder joint to remove the excess. I use an electrical contact spray for a quick wipe. Alcohol or similar is fine. Rosin core solder is usually all you need along with a hot "clean" tip. I don't use a "water wet sponge" for wiping the tip. I like the "dry" Hako brass metal stuff. Re-Tin the soldering tip every so often. And always clean and re-tin the tip before you shut it off. Next time you solder, the tip is fresh and ready and will heat up fast.
 
Hako is great.
I use Flux. But I don't use much and not always. Flux can cause corrosion within the fine strands in the wiring jacket. Flux helps solder flow easily and fast and does make things easier. But corrosion will form where the Flux flowed to within the wiring and fail, causing arcing and resistance. And it is not usually visible until it happens. I experienced that several times. Flux is good if used very sparingly and you wipe clean the solder joint to remove the excess. I use an electrical contact spray for a quick wipe. Alcohol or similar is fine. Rosin core solder is usually all you need along with a hot "clean" tip. I don't use a "water wet sponge" for wiping the tip. I like the "dry" Hako brass metal stuff. Re-Tin the soldering tip every so often. And always clean and re-tin the tip before you shut it off. Next time you solder, the tip is fresh and ready and will heat up fast.
I'm with you on all of those points except the wet sponge. I still like having the wet sponge in addition to the brass scrubby thing in the base. It just cleans off the boogers quicker IMO. Especially if you hit a jacket and get some plastic on the tip. The water cools it quickly and it releases it. I have an analog version of the FX-888 from about 2010 and it has been a workhorse.
 
I never figured a higher C rating would be any significant weight difference. All lipo's vary in weight with hardcase being a tad heavier. The higher the Mah, going from a 5000mah to a 7200mah may be significant however. Anyone agree? (y)or (n).
You are right, there’s only an ounce difference.
 
I'm with you on all of those points except the wet sponge. I still like having the wet sponge in addition to the brass scrubby thing in the base. It just cleans off the boogers quicker IMO. Especially if you hit a jacket and get some plastic on the tip. The water cools it quickly and it releases it. I have an analog version of the FX-888 from about 2010 and it has been a workhorse.
I like to clean the tip often, And the wet sponge cools the tip too much, then I have to recover the temp(digital temp reading shows the drop) before continuing. It kinda disrupts things. Also, I find the sponge can cause dirt to collect on the tip where it wasn't. But the sponge cleans faster. I usually dip my tip in Flux for second when it just wont clean well enough. (gotta watch the heavy fumes ):cautious: Then re-tin it and solder. I learned that from an old timer when I was young. Now I am an old timer.:LOL:
 
I agree... and it's more than enough IMO. Very rarely do you smoke an esc from a battery of too low c rating. Yes it happens but not too often. But 50C??! That'll never torch an esc... unless either the esc is made like garbage and has real awful caps or the battery is absolutely completely and superbly overrated.
50C is ok until you spread your wings a bit and up your gearing and punch level at the ESC. :ROFLMAO: We all end up looking for that Lipo with that perfect C rating. It seems like some intangible number that drives up the price. Yet most lipo's are not close to their "C"specs.:unsure: Just bash it I tell you. don't think too much about it.:LOL:
 
When we cant find that 500 "C" rated lipo that's just right, I guess we turn to Huge Cap Banks for reassurance. :ROFLMAO: The ones with the large "fresh" Panasonic Gold low ESR Capacitors at $11 a piece times 6. The type you would use in an exotic Tube sound amplifier.:p
 
Not sure if some of you have seen this thread already, but for those who have not the first 12-15 pages are definitely a must read and pick and choose the rest since it is over 500 pages. The independent testing that a few folks have done is really amazing and insightful. The overall story seems to be two fold, in general most lipo batteries are tagged with a C rating that is pure fiction and simply there for sales. Secondly, weight is often a reasonable indicator to battery performance, so much so they needed to divide up the batteries into weight classes because it was not a fair comparison (these are plane guys). Have a look. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1767093-Battery-Load-Test-Comparisons
 
Hako is great.
I use Flux. But I don't use much and not always. Flux can cause corrosion within the fine strands in the wiring jacket. Flux helps solder flow easily and fast and does make things easier. But corrosion will form where the Flux flowed to within the wiring and fail, causing arcing and resistance. And it is not usually visible until it happens. I experienced that several times. Flux is good if used very sparingly and you wipe clean the solder joint to remove the excess. I use an electrical contact spray for a quick wipe. Alcohol or similar is fine. Rosin core solder is usually all you need along with a hot "clean" tip. I don't use a "water wet sponge" for wiping the tip. I like the "dry" Hako brass metal stuff. Re-Tin the soldering tip every so often. And always clean and re-tin the tip before you shut it off. Next time you solder, the tip is fresh and ready and will heat up fast.
2 Questions:
What is “re-tin”? Also, I will Google this Flux stuff.

Again, thx everybody for the input. I’ve been really busy preparing everything I need to solder connectors. Now, I wonder what am I missing? Lots of pics here. Anything else I need?
P.S: I love those Eschenbach Max Detail glasses.
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You don’t need that green box with the brass inside. You already have one in the base of the iron. ??
 
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