Big Rock Edough's RC Bigrock build

[Velodromed]

Any problems with snapping wheel axles? (Not the driveshafts, the axles on the end.) With Hot Racing extenders (and aluminum front steering blocks/rear hubs) I was snapping wheel axles all the time. The less flexible CVD axles snapped even more often. It's why I stopped using the CVD's.

Looks like you're using the M2C extenders. They're very similar in design to the Hot Racing extenders, they have that nut that covers the wheel axle and may help prevent it from snapping. If they do, maybe I can try CVD's again.

Is this a 4s issue? Did you snap axles on 3s at all? I’ve hot racing extensions on two cars and m2c with cvds on a third with no issues so far. But I stick with 3s, running 3670, 3050kv motors, 130amp esc with 18t pinions.

 

[GRC]

I was snapping axles on my 3s Granite all the time. Both the stock ones and the CVD ones. Never from driving on the ground, always from jump landing impact.

I think I broke more wheel axles than most because of the combination of the Hot Racing extensions and aluminum steering blocks/rear hub carriers. With this combination there is a lot less flex around the wheel axle. The axle takes all the impact and it snaps. When I added the metal CVD driveshafts, there was even less flex and the wheel axles snapped even faster.

Edough jumps his 3s vehicles at similar height and distances as I do, so I am very curious if his axles are holding up. If they are, I would guess it's those M2C nuts.

 

[parcou]

I was snapping axles on my 3s Granite all the time. Both the stock ones and the CVD ones. Never from driving on the ground, always from jump landing impact.

I think I broke more wheel axles than most because of the combination of the Hot Racing extensions and aluminum steering blocks/rear hub carriers. With this combination there is a lot less flex around the wheel axle. The axle takes all the impact and it snaps. When I added the metal CVD driveshafts, there was even less flex and the wheel axles snapped even faster.

Edough jumps his 3s vehicles at similar height and distances as I do, so I am very curious if his axles are holding up. If they are, I would guess it's those M2C nuts.

You open a good point I am have not broken anything in my BR suspension, arms, drivetrain since owning the day they released it. I was thinking about adding aluminum knuckles or hubs see many do it really not sure why. But sounds like keeping it all stock is helping with the hits if I am reading what you are saying correctly?

 

[GRC]

If you're not breaking C-hubs, steering knuckles, or rear hub carriers, there is no reason to upgrade. I've always used the stock C-hubs and they've survived all my jumps and crashes. I still have the originals.

I used to have the GPM front steering knuckles and rear hub carriers. They are a perfect fit, and they lasted about a year. Eventually I did bend a front knuckle slightly. It still worked and I didn't even notice it until I tried to change my bearings. I had to pry the bearing out and couldn't get a new one back in. So, I ditched both the front and rear. I wanted to lighten up my Granite and see if they were really necessary.

Since going back to plastic, I have broken a front steering knuckle. It was while trying to learn tailwhips and I had multiple hard, single wheel crushing crashes. I replaced it with another plastic front knuckle. So far so good, but if they continue to break, I may go back to the GPM's.

Another thing to consider is the cost. The GPM's cost six times as much. Even if the plastics break, the GPM's also eventually bent after a year. Even if I break a plastic knuckle every two months, the cost to replace may be the same. (If I really break that often, I'll put the GPM's back on.) I should also mention that I never snapped a wheel axle after switching to Typhons, even when using the aluminum knuckles/rear hub carriers.

 

[Edough13]

Any problems with snapping wheel axles? (Not the driveshafts, the axles on the end.) With Hot Racing extenders (and aluminum front steering blocks/rear hubs) I was snapping wheel axles all the time. The less flexible CVD axles snapped even more often. It's why I stopped using the CVD's.

Looks like you're using the M2C extenders. They're very similar in design to the Hot Racing extenders, they have that nut that covers the wheel axle and may help prevent it from snapping. If they do, maybe I can try CVD's again.

Nope I've only snapped axles on my Granite before I went 4s even. I haven't had any issues at all with the M2C extenders and axles as of yet. I did however today strip a rear CVD at the joint on the Bigrock pictured below

 

[gazktm660]

Love my big rock! Great all rounder enjoy it

 

[ksearyback]

Nope I've only snapped axles on my Granite before I went 4s even. I haven't had any issues at all with the M2C extenders and axles as of yet. I did however today strip a rear CVD at the joint on the Bigrock pictured below View attachment 207681

Do you ever run into binding issues when mixing different after market pieces? I'm just learning all of this stuff, so having a really tough time identifying part names to figure out solutions. The part that you have that's orange, where the two pieces connect around the drive shaft/axle -- is that the steering knuckle and C hub? Either way, when I tighten the screws on the very top and bottom (of the orange pieces you have inside the wheels) they bind on one of my drive shafts/axles to the point where it's so tight it barely moves even by hand. Is this a function of me using RPM arms? Hopefully someone else has run into this before.

But, at least looking at all you did to your truck, my problem doesn't appear to be that I mixed different after market brands together, since you've clearly done this successfully.

 

[GRC]

When I tighten the screws on the very top and bottom (of the orange pieces you have inside the wheels) they bind on one of my drive shafts/axles to the point where it's so tight it barely moves even by hand.

There are two flanged tubes that go inside the top and bottom screw holes on the C-hub. They can easily fall out without you realizing if you're not looking out for them. I did this once. Or maybe you changed to aftermarket C-hubs and didn't transfer the flanged tubes. The C-hub will immediately bind up if you try to secure the top and bottom screws without the flanged tubes.

Another

 

[mxfan69]

Do you ever run into binding issues when mixing different after market pieces? I'm just learning all of this stuff, so having a really tough time identifying part names to figure out solutions. The part that you have that's orange, where the two pieces connect around the drive shaft/axle -- is that the steering knuckle and C hub? Either way, when I tighten the screws on the very top and bottom (of the orange pieces you have inside the wheels) they bind on one of my drive shafts/axles to the point where it's so tight it barely moves even by hand. Is this a function of me using RPM arms? Hopefully someone else has run into this before.

But, at least looking at all you did to your truck, my problem doesn't appear to be that I mixed different after market brands together, since you've clearly done this successfully.

Can only speak to my experience and the answer is HECK YEAH aftermarket parts bind on each other and on oem parts. The biggest issue Ive had consistently is GPM axles to either stock Arrma hubs or various aftermarket hubs when using Hot Racing or Arrma hub extenders, and the assembly binding as the axle to wheel hub pin is just a little off. The second most consistent issue has been multiple Hot Racing aluminum housings to stock or EXB Arrma Diffs being loose regardless of shimming.

Its a real thing and its not just you

 

[Edough13]

Do you ever run into binding issues when mixing different after market pieces? I'm just learning all of this stuff, so having a really tough time identifying part names to figure out solutions. The part that you have that's orange, where the two pieces connect around the drive shaft/axle -- is that the steering knuckle and C hub? Either way, when I tighten the screws on the very top and bottom (of the orange pieces you have inside the wheels) they bind on one of my drive shafts/axles to the point where it's so tight it barely moves even by hand. Is this a function of me using RPM arms? Hopefully someone else has run into this before.

But, at least looking at all you did to your truck, my problem doesn't appear to be that I mixed different after market brands together, since you've clearly done this successfully.

So yes I had issues with the Integy hubs also. The front inner hubs would bind like your having happen so I just used the stock plastic set with the Integy C hubs. The rear Integy hubs bound up on my stock driveshafts so I had to trim them at the ends by the stub axle. Here is some pictures etc. Post in thread 'What did you work on today?' https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/what-did-you-work-on-today.9619/post-567436