Educate me again on droop screws, please

[parcou]

I know this is a somewhat old thread but how exactly do you make sure L-R droop is identical on each axel? Using a micrometer or is there another way?

For me...

I used a level counter like the kitchen bar and 4 new perfect tires. I use a metal ruler and find a common spot on each side and measure from there as I adjust L/R droop. Then I step back, look at it at counter level, and use my eyes to make tweaks. In doing so, I am looking at how the tire sits, body level, stance, etc.

A metal ruler is what I use I am not going to buy one of those triangle things used to help measure droop.


Update some videos
@rcs29 I think this is over the top for bashing but good viewing for balance tips

 

[joshludden]

I know this is a somewhat old thread but how exactly do you make sure L-R droop is identical on each axel? Using a micrometer or is there another way?

You can set the car on a flat, level surface. Then put your finger directly in the middle of the front bumper (or under the front diff) & lift up from the middle. Both of your tires should leave & contact the surface at the same time. You can raise/ lower each corner until you get both sides touching the surface @ the same time. Repeat this process for the rear.

 

[rcs29]

You can set the car on a flat, level surface. Then put your finger directly in the middle of the front bumper (or under the front diff) & lift up from the middle. Both of your tires should leave & contact the surface at the same time. You can raise/ lower each corner until you get both sides touching the surface @ the same time. Repeat this process for the rear.

Seems like such an obvious thing but clearly wasn't to me haha. Thank you very much.

 

[MrWednesday]

Sooooooo when you want to lower a street car do you just unload the springs? No you tighten the droop screws. You can do it with off road vehicles as well such as the kraton if you want a lower ride like a talion along with a tight (or loose) preload.

I know I’m a little late to the party but it’s my understanding that if add bunch of droop and tighten the pretensioners, I will have a nice stiff LCG high grip on road setup. If I just undo the pretensioners I’ll end up with the same LCG but the suspension will be wayyy too soft. Doesn’t this ring true?

 

[SrC]

I use my digital caliper, yes. Proper way is always measure each Shock fully extended on a stand or off its ladened weight. Wheels off helps much. How I do it. Using a quality set of Upgrade Proper Droop screws is all part of this. makes it much easier and wont ruin the chassis droop ears as well. Avids or Arrma Upgrade ones.
Just Set the caliper from top and bottom eyelet identically when measuring both shocks of each axel. Right down to the MM. Shock Droop is always set by measuring the "Shocks Max extension". Doing it by eye is not realistic. There are many videos in regards. It is technically called Shock droop. Not Arm droop or just droop, chassis droop or whatever, etc. Starting out with the arms level is a good starting point. Trial and error dictates what is best for you. How the track guys dial theirs in. Most basher guys could care less or feel all this doesn't matter. But done properly will prevent shock damage and make your rig handle way better and feel more balanced L to R. Can also prevent the bones from popping out when the arms become over extended with impacts/ jumps etc. The Shock Preload (spring) setting is only done after the droop is where you set it. Shock Preload is set while it's on its wheels with its full running weight. Body and lipo in place. Arms should droop somewhere slightly below level. How you like it.
>>We are all at different levels of RC in our own right. So who am I to say here. Just that I started RC at the track exclusively , so my perspective may be different and more technical than most here.
Go build yourself just one 1/8 Tekno Kit from scratch and you will learn all the proper methods for chassis setup per the kit manual. 99% of it will carry over to the Arrma 6s line platform.

 

[MrWednesday]

I use my digital caliper, yes. Proper way is always measure each Shock fully extended on a stand or off its ladened weight. Wheels off helps much. How I do it. Using a quality set of Upgrade Proper Droop screws is all part of this. makes it much easier and wont ruin the chassis droop ears as well. Avids or Arrma Upgrade ones.
Just Set the caliper from top and bottom eyelet identically when measuring both shocks of each axel. Right down to the MM. Shock Droop is always set by measuring the "Shocks Max extension". Doing it by eye is not realistic. There are many videos in regards. It is technically called Shock droop. Not Arm droop or just droop, chassis droop or whatever, etc. Starting out with the arms level is a good starting point. Trial and error dictates what is best for you. How the track guys dial theirs in. Most basher guys could care less or feel all this doesn't matter. But done properly will prevent shock damage and make your rig handle way better and feel more balanced L to R. Can also prevent the bones from popping out when the arms become over extended with impacts/ jumps etc. The Shock Preload (spring) setting is only done after the droop is where you set it. Shock Preload is set while it's on its wheels with its full running weight. Body and lipo in place. Arms should droop somewhere slightly below level. How you like it.
>>We are all at different levels of RC in our own right. So who am I to say here. Just that I started RC at the track exclusively , so my perspective may be different and more technical than most here.
Go build yourself just one 1/8 Tekno Kit from scratch and you will learn all the proper methods for chassis setup per the kit manual. 99% of it will carry over to the Arrma 6s line platform.

Teknos are pretty dope but I think Mugen is probably the most like Arrma w the pillow balls, and the chassis design with the side runners and battery trays etc… plus they have an IFMAR word championship win (I’m just ball busting, I love my Tekno as much as I love my Mugen for different reasons)