ELC 6s MM2 severely cogs when warm

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

DoNoHarm

Very Active Member
Messages
3,099
Reaction score
2,903
Arrma RC's
  1. Senton 6s
I did 3 runs back to back today with the cheap cheap vorza, finally found a problem. The MM2 in it, or ELC 6s, was always a little coggy for my liking when driving. Now, today I got to get it hotter than usual because I ran so many packs through it. The cogs slowly got worse until, towards the beginning of pack 3, the car would NOT move from a dig under its own power. It would cog so bad, it’d even cog under full throttle. Sometimes the jitters even made it back up a good 4 inches even though I’m giving it forward throttle. It WILL NOT find it’s direction no matter how long you hit the gas, I even kept it floored for 3 seconds but began to feel bad for the ESC. If you kick it off by foot it’s mint, and as long as it never completely stops moving, it runs great! But as soon as you come to a stop it’s all over. It doesn’t really bother me because I don’t really stop the car during runs anyway, I keep it moving and jumping. Once it cooled below 150 degrees it was able to move from a start under its own power. I’m worried about the long term effects on the ESC from this behavior. I need some experts for this one...
 
The only time I've seen a motor do that was when I cooked my blx2050kv due to a fan dying. It got to 254F and would chatter and barely move. I thought I had one of the motor wires come unplugged, then took off the body and felt the heat pouring out of it. Once cooled, the magnets had almost no field in them and the motor is junk.

How hot is your motor getting?
 
The only time I've seen a motor do that was when I cooked my blx2050kv due to a fan dying. It got to 254F and would chatter and barely move. I thought I had one of the motor wires come unplugged, then took off the body and felt the heat pouring out of it. Once cooled, the magnets had almost no field in them and the motor is junk.

How hot is your motor getting?
The absolute hottest I’ve ever been able to get that motor is 149 degrees. The esc has seen 170. (In the original post all temperatures were related to the esc because the motor was fine the whole time)
 
You don't happen to have a different motor to try in it, do you? What motor is in it?
Just the Neu Castle “HPI Tork” 4274 2200kv with that weird ass heatsink.

I got 2 other motors (a blx 4074 2050 and a leopard HD 4275 2000) but I don’t really wanna make adapters for them to run on the vorza. I might end up letting it ride.
 
Last edited:
Just the Neu Castle “HPI Tork” 4274 2200kv with that weird ass heatsink.

I got 2 other motors (a blx 4074 2050 and a leopard HD 4275 2000) but I don’t really wanna make adapters for them to run on the vorza. I might end up letting it ride.
The BLX fits right in the stock Vorza motor mount fyi.
20200429_211457.jpg
 
The BLX fits right in the stock Vorza motor mount fyi.
View attachment 101164
Yeah I got you, but I don’t feel like buying 4mm bullets and 6.5’s, and then soldering up an adapter. I ended up swapping the ESC into my e revo after work tonight. It got hotter in that big hunk a little quicker, and the issue started again ?‍♂️. She’s mint I’m telling you.

To be honest I’m not sure where to go from here. Not in the mood to kill a perfectly good mamba monster 2 but I’m not trying to bug castle about it. Best case scenario I get an esc out of the deal but then I lose the rarity of having an ELC 6s. I’m gonna try and run version 1.24 on it and see what happens.
 
Yeah I got you, but I don’t feel like buying 4mm bullets and 6.5’s, and then soldering up an adapter. I ended up swapping the ESC into my e revo after work tonight. It got hotter in that big hunk a little quicker, and the issue started again ?‍♂️. She’s mint I’m telling you.

To be honest I’m not sure where to go from here. Not in the mood to kill a perfectly good mamba monster 2 but I’m not trying to bug castle about it. Best case scenario I get an esc out of the deal but then I lose the rarity of having an ELC 6s. I’m gonna try and run version 1.24 on it and see what happens.
You don't need to buy or make adapters, unsolder the bullets and just swap them around.
 
I wouldn’t be to concerned with your set up if you’re not experiencing cogging until Pack 3. I’m happy if I get to pack 2 without breaking something or getting cutoff on thermal.
Iv been playing with the gearing on the infraction and cogging happens straight off the bat. ESC’s trying to figure out where that shaft is as it’s not a sensored motor.
You may be geared a smidge too high and as the ESC warms up it struggles to sync up with the motor. You give it a little boot, turn that shaft to help it along and she’s all happy. Maybe gear down or throw a sensored motor on the your setup.
 
I did 3 runs back to back today with the cheap cheap vorza, finally found a problem. The MM2 in it, or ELC 6s, was always a little coggy for my liking when driving. Now, today I got to get it hotter than usual because I ran so many packs through it. The cogs slowly got worse until, towards the beginning of pack 3, the car would NOT move from a dig under its own power. It would cog so bad, it’d even cog under full throttle. Sometimes the jitters even made it back up a good 4 inches even though I’m giving it forward throttle. It WILL NOT find it’s direction no matter how long you hit the gas, I even kept it floored for 3 seconds but began to feel bad for the ESC. If you kick it off by foot it’s mint, and as long as it never completely stops moving, it runs great! But as soon as you come to a stop it’s all over. It doesn’t really bother me because I don’t really stop the car during runs anyway, I keep it moving and jumping. Once it cooled below 150 degrees it was able to move from a start under its own power. I’m worried about the long term effects on the ESC from this behavior. I need some experts for this one...
Are you able to connect the ESC to Castle Link?. I'm not sure if you can hook it up without any issues as it's not a "native" castle ESC. If it works though, I'm pretty sure you could upgrade to a newer firmware and the issue should be gone. Because my MM2 has the exact same issue on an older firmware. Cogging gets worse with the longer you run it (heat).
Edit: Just saw that you want to run v1.24. My MM2 had those issues on v1.24. Which version are you on currently? I think v1.5(2/3) is the most stable one.
 
Are you able to connect the ESC to Castle Link?. I'm not sure if you can hook it up without any issues as it's not a "native" castle ESC. If it works though, I'm pretty sure you could upgrade to a newer firmware and the issue should be gone. Because my MM2 has the exact same issue on an older firmware. Cogging gets worse with the longer you run it (heat).
Edit: Just saw that you want to run v1.24. My MM2 had those issues on v1.24. Which version are you on currently? I think v1.5(2/3) is the most stable one.
Castle link hooks up fine. Just some food for thought, all rebranded castle escs ever made hook up to the link. I actually ended up taking it off of 1.24 and put it onto 1.29 when I first got the truck along with changing all of my curves and cutoffs and stuff. I just finished putting 1.24 final on the esc. I’ll let you know how it goes.
 
Castle link hooks up fine. Just some food for thought, all rebranded castle escs ever made hook up to the link. I actually ended up taking it off of 1.24 and put it onto 1.29 when I first got the truck along with changing all of my curves and cutoffs and stuff. I just finished putting 1.24 final on the esc. I’ll let you know how it goes.
Yeah you can hook them all up to Castle Link but some of the rebranded ESCs have their own different firmware (with limited features). Does this one have the real Castle one?
If not there is a way to change it to a genuine one. But my guess is that this one doesn't have the real MM2 firmware otherwise you wouldn't be able to change it to v1.24. Maybe it has the original MMM one :)
I use my MM2 v1.24 for speed runs (with really high gear ratios) so probably the cogging isn't noticeable with normal gearing.
 
Yeah you can hook them all up to Castle Link but some of the rebranded ESCs have their own different firmware (with limited features). Does this one have the real Castle one?
If not there is a way to change it to a genuine one. But my guess is that this one doesn't have the real MM2 firmware otherwise you wouldn't be able to change it to v1.24. Maybe it has the original MMM one :)
I use my MM2 v1.24 for speed runs (with really high gear ratios) so probably the cogging isn't noticeable with normal gearing.
Sadly you’re correct. With HPI castle escs they limit the latest firmware you can download. Given, it’s all normal castle firmware, some of it just stays locked. I used to know a guy who knew how to step by step convert any mamba monster 2 back to 1.24 for speed runs, useful as hell.
 
Sadly you’re correct. With HPI castle escs they limit the latest firmware you can download. Given, it’s all normal castle firmware, some of it just stays locked. I used to know a guy who knew how to step by step convert any mamba monster 2 back to 1.24 for speed runs, useful as hell.
Yeah that's really unfortunate but there is a great thread on the Traxxas forum that explains how to convert the firmware to a genuine Castle.
Hope v1.24 works out for you but keep in mind that motors tend to run really hot with this one.
Actually I managed to downgrade my normal MM2 to the v1.24 even with adjustable BEC voltage which is not an option on the older versions I think :)
 
Yeah that's really unfortunate but there is a great thread on the Traxxas forum that explains how to convert the firmware to a genuine Castle.
Hope v1.24 works out for you but keep in mind that motors tend to run really hot with this one.
Actually I managed to downgrade my normal MM2 to the v1.24 even with adjustable BEC voltage which is not an option on the older versions I think :)
I remember that thread!! Good community back in the day.
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top