End points and rebinding.

[KevinC]

Hey guys.

Newb question, do I have to rebind after setting end points in the K8S? It reads that way in the manual but I ain’t sure. I don’t want to open the receiver box unless I have to...

cheers,
kev

 

[gotnitro]

That would be very weird if you had to rebind after setting EP being It has to be bound in the first place to even set them. The stock RX/TX for mine went into the trash bin launched across the garage within the first 2 min I had the box open so I couldn't tell you for sure.

 

[KevinC]

Thx bro.....I was figuring the same thing. I’ll give it a try.

cheers,
kev

 

[Primarrma]

Hey guys.

Newb question, do I have to rebind after setting end points in the K8S? It reads that way in the manual but I ain’t sure. I don’t want to open the receiver box unless I have to...

cheers,
kev

100% yes you do!!! The way avc works is that it takes account of your servo settings and if you don't rebind it will calculate the corrections based upon the old settings. It is critical you do this and I also recommend that you calibrate your ESC if you ever rebind your receiver. This ensures you have your failsafe set correctly and that you are getting the full performance out of the motor and ESC, by ensure your ESC is at 100% throttle when your radio is and same for break and neutral.

It's only 6 screws and 2 minutes, get yourself an electric screwdriver it makes tedious jobs like this easy and less painful.

That would be very weird if you had to rebind after setting EP being It has to be bound in the first place to even set them. The stock RX/TX for mine went into the trash bin launched across the garage within the first 2 min I had the box open so I couldn't tell you for sure.

It's not about rebinding the radio to the receiver it's about the avc calibration, the rebinding is a bad way of saying that it needs to be calibrated on any change in radio setup. The receiver even has a tilt sensor in it that means it MUST be secure in the radio box and must be re-bound if you change it's orientation. This is very critical if you ever change your reverse switches ie. motor direction or servo direction.

The car WILL crash if you make significant enough changes without re-binding. This is because for example if you are steering right and the avc thinks your steering left it will correct the car the wrong way throwing the car in the opposite direction to what is needed. If avc is set properly it is amazing the control it can give. The down side of avc that I see is in the air, I have definitely lost the ability to hit full throttle when I'm off the ground because the avc thinks the wheels are loosing traction and it tries to kill the throttle to get the traction back. Not ideal when your half way round a back flip.

 

[gotnitro]

100% yes you do!!! The way avc works is that it takes account of your servo settings and if you don't rebind it will calculate the corrections based upon the old settings. It is critical you do this and I also recommend that you calibrate your ESC if you ever rebind your receiver. This ensures you have your failsafe set correctly and that you are getting the full performance out of the motor and ESC, by ensure your ESC is at 100% throttle when your radio is and same for break and neutral.

It's only 6 screws and 2 minutes, get yourself an electric screwdriver it makes tedious jobs like this easy and less painful.

It's not about rebinding the radio to the receiver it's about the avc calibration, the rebinding is a bad way of saying that it needs to be calibrated on any change in radio setup. The receiver even has a tilt sensor in it that means it MUST be secure in the radio box and must be re-bound if you change it's orientation. This is very critical if you ever change your reverse switches ie. motor direction or servo direction.

The car WILL crash if you make significant enough changes without re-binding. This is because for example if you are steering right and the avc thinks your steering left it will correct the car the wrong way throwing the car in the opposite direction to what is needed. If avc is set properly it is amazing the control it can give. The down side of avc that I see is in the air, I have definitely lost the ability to hit full throttle when I'm off the ground because the avc thinks the wheels are loosing traction and it tries to kill the throttle to get the traction back. Not ideal when your half way round a back flip.

Well then its a GREAT thing I tossed that stock crap in the garbage!

 

[Primarrma]

Well then its a GREAT thing I tossed that stock crap in the garbage!

That's one way to deal with it, but actually the receiver is very good, there are some very helpful features that you can tap into with a slightly better transmitter. I'll be trying to put together a full instructional video about it when the rest of my parts arrive.

 

[gotnitro]

That's one way to deal with it, but actually the receiver is very good, there are some very helpful features that you can tap into with a slightly better transmitter. I'll be trying to put together a full instructional video about it when the rest of my parts arrive.

I guess I kinda took the high road on the whole thing. Call me old school but practice tweak, practice crash, practice learn. I cant get into all the fancy bells and whistles. Give me a fast TX/RX with some range, I'm GTG.

 

[Primarrma]

I guess I kinda took the high road on the whole thing. Call me old school but practice tweak, practice crash, practice learn. I cant get into all the fancy bells and whistles. Give me a fast TX/RX with some range, I'm GTG.

I agree with you there, but some of the stuff these new smart ESCs can tell you is very handy. Just with a newer version DX5C Transmitter and the stock receiver, you can monitor temps, voltage, current draw, rpm, and other stuff I can't think of. To me temps are critical and so helpful to be able to set an alarm on the radio when it gets to a set point. AVC is only one part, it is amazing how well it can hold a straight line in loose dirt.

 

[gotnitro]

I agree with you there, but some of the stuff these new smart ESCs can tell you is very handy. Just with a newer version DX5C Transmitter and the stock receiver, you can monitor temps, voltage, current draw, rpm, and other stuff I can't think of. To me temps are critical and so helpful to be able to set an alarm on the radio when it gets to a set point. AVC is only one part, it is amazing how well it can hold a straight line in loose dirt.

I don't personally care about any of that stuff. AVC? To me that's cheating. I have a temp gun and temp it at various times during my first run on a pinion. If she's within my spec's, the temp gun gets thrown back on the bench and I'm out! For me, fug looking at my radio at all. My eyes are on the truck and I enjoy making it do what I want without any computer help.

 

[L3phturn]

Hmmm, I wonder how similar the DumboRC gyro features work. I haven’t enabled the functionality yet. I’ll have to try it and test to see how it works.

 

[KevinC]

Thx for the info gents!

 

[KevinC]

@Primarrma thx for the insight man. ......one more question, I assume this process is equitable across all Esc’s, would this be correct? I have the max5 combo coming next week. Is it safe to assume the same steps will need to be taken with this esc regarding end points? I understand the need to calibrate but this end point thing is a bit foreign to me right now. I can follow steps easily but electronics are not my strong suit.

cheers,
kev

 

[gotnitro]

@Primarrma thx for the insight man. ......one more question, I assume this process is equitable across all Esc’s, would this be correct? I have the max5 combo coming next week. Is it safe to assume the same steps will need to be taken with this esc regarding end points? I understand the need to calibrate but this end point thing is a bit foreign to me right now. I can follow steps easily but electronics are not my strong suit.

cheers,
kev

@KevinC

I take that back, you might have to because your still using the stock TX/RX. I have to stop thinking everyone replaces the radio/Rx like me...

 

[Primarrma]

@Primarrma thx for the insight man. ......one more question, I assume this process is equitable across all Esc’s, would this be correct? I have the max5 combo coming next week. Is it safe to assume the same steps will need to be taken with this esc regarding end points? I understand the need to calibrate but this end point thing is a bit foreign to me right now. I can follow steps easily but electronics are not my strong suit.

cheers,
kev

If you change ESCs you will need to rebind, because if you imagine that with a new combo the motor direction changes, you will still get forward and reverse, but it may give you the throttle settings for reverse going forward (not 100%) and forward going in reverse (more than what you expect), the Max 5 would protect you in reverse because you can limit it to 25% max.

Sorry that is so confusing, the endpoint's can be adjusted for steering and throttle on the DX3 transmitter so make sure that you set the throttle endpoint's to 100% in both forward and reverse, this won't change after you set them, it is not reliant on the there even being a receiver bound to the radio. The steering endpoint's are the same, though you are more likely to set these at the limit of the servo travel, this is to protect your servo. The reason it is so important to re-bind is because these settings need to be inputted to the receiver, before that point the receiver doesn't know what the endpoint's are, the system will still work, it just won't be accurate.

For example if you had the throttle endpoint's set to only 80% when you bound the radio, then adjusted the endpoint's to 100% without re-binding then the receiver would most likely give you 100% throttle at 80% trigger position and then the last 20% will do nothing, meaning that you have a very touchy trigger.

The motor direction thing is more of a concern as the avc couldn't correct things properly and steering endpoint's the same.

The ESC calibration is to ensure the ESC is getting the correct information from the receiver, so that you get the correct output when you input a signal from your radio.

I would suggest that you rebind the radio to the receiver after you install your ESC as the throttle lead has to be connected to the receiver, and you have to remove the radio box lid anyway. You can check the throttle endpoint's at any time, do this without the car turned (ESC powered up).

The ESC calibration is critical for your safety as this is when the neutral position you set in the bind process is saved to the ESC, if the failsafe of the receiver is to work properly, the ESC must know what position the neutral is.

I'm sorry this ramble may not be very clear, if you have any other questions feel free to reply or message me. It is a great hobby because you never stop learning and evolving, I have so much to learn, and I want others to be safe and get the most out of their cars, that is the only reason I keep harping on about this.

The DX3 is a much nicer radio than what was brought out with Arrma cars before, though the endpoint adjustment isn't as easy to adjust as it could be. I think that the throttle one particularly isn't easy. My process was to get into the endpoint adjustment mode and hold the trigger in then dial the throttle adjustment back a bit then ensure the trigger is in all the way then dial the adjustment back up to 100% again, for forward and reverse do the same thing, this ensures you have really got 100% throttle set on the radio. Then go and do the re-bind (ensure the car is level when you do this) then finish with the ESC calibration.

 

[KevinC]

@Primarrma
dude, can you come to my house and install this thing?......?.....I jest...
Im going to screenshot this page bro. I will definitely hit you up if I run into trouble with this install. It’ll be a while for pinions (Sagacustom ones coming) before I button it in, but this showed up today. Limitless spool mounted just to visualize......

 

[Primarrma]

@Primarrma
dude, can you come to my house and install this thing?......?.....I jest...
Im going to screenshot this page bro. I will definitely hit you up if I run into trouble with this install. It’ll be a while for pinions (Sagacustom ones coming) before I button it in, but this showed up today. Limitless spool mounted just to visualize......


View attachment 93232

No worries at all, if you're in Australia I'll happily help you put it together. There is no reason you can't use the spool is there?

 

[KevinC]

I may use that spool. Im on the fence about it’s use as a pinion. Plus, if Saga delivers soon I don’t want to pull it apart and replace.
TBH I haven’t soldered since high school and I really need to practice on some spares I have lying around. I do have a great iron to use.......it’s going to be a while before I work up the minerals to install this esc.

 

[Primarrma]

I may use that spool. Im on the fence about it’s use as a pinion. Plus, if Saga delivers soon I don’t want to pull it apart and replace.
TBH I haven’t soldered since high school and I really need to practice on some spares I have lying around. I do have a great iron to use.......it’s going to be a while before I work up the minerals to install this esc.

My advice is get the iron set very hot, use a device to hold the connectors so you have free hands, and don't overheat the ESC wires. Tin the wire and connector, and get the solder to flow in and around your joint, but limit this to a minimum otherwise you have solder get into the way of the connector plug shrouds.