Kraton ENUFFS ENUFF ,already !!

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Location
Spoklahoma Washington
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 8S
  2. Kraton 6s
Evidently there's a contest at Arrma factory tables , who ever uses the most lock tight wins !! I evidently have some clowns victory trophy subject , compleatly destroyed both front stub axlels getting the pin set screws out , in fact never got them out , stuff went all the way through the back end of the axels , tried heet and everything not a budget at all , very costly and very stupid , but hey ! I got a beanie on the way !
 
Evidently there's a contest at Arrma factory tables , who ever uses the most lock tight wins !! I evidently have some clowns victory trophy subject , compleatly destroyed both front stub axlels getting the pin set screws out , in fact never got them out , stuff went all the way through the back end of the axels , tried heet and everything not a budget at all , very costly and very stupid , but hey ! I got a beanie on the way !
Do your shock caps have red loctite on them?
 
Haven't got to the shocks yet , I'll get this thing done about the time there's a foot of snow on the ground , gunna put in a fast Eddy bearing set next , I'm already worried about those screws on the slider motor mount , there prolly cemented in too !! D A N G I T
 
The Limitless, a roller with no motor has Threadlocker on the motor mount slider hardware. What gives Arrma?? What are your trying to secure??? There is no motor there. That's my job to put TL on when I do install the motor. That Red TL is like gorilla snot. Wont come off. Red TL is not even designed for removal on small hardware. What's wrong with using Blue TL at the factory???
 
Guess they don't know what orange TL is either. Lol
 
I've always been a gear head with scale cars. I know that Red TL application is for "large" fasteners we don't find in RC (higher torque applications). And the Red is "generally" permanent. Orange is new. (removable) Honestly, Blue is all we need for these small fasteners. I feel the Blue "Gels" cure a bit slower but is stronger than the "thin" Blue TL. Gels are easier to control the amount used. The amount and exactly where you place the TL on the threads (top, bottom,or middle)determines how well it will perform. IMO
 
I've not had much success with the stub axle pin screws by heating them with a flame but on the other hand holding a big and powerful soldering iron on their heads until the hex is too hot to touch did the trick for me.
Also one of my turnbuckles fell apart on the very first run so probably they either use too much TL or none at all.
 
Soldering iron tip is best. More directed heat. My first choice if I am not too lazy to heat it up.
You usually can smell the TL when it is hot enough to remove that fastener. It will smoke a bit too.
Good stuff. All Arrma guys need to know this. Arrma should put a notation in their Manuals for this. That Red TL contributes to a lot of bricked parts during removal. There are many frustrated users due to this issue. When removing fasteners that have user supplied Blue TL, a heat gun or even a torch lighter can be adequate. With Blue TL, I usually try my MIP driver first. If I see some twist on the driver shaft, I heat up that fastener before proceeding. Hearing that "snap" when you break a TL'ed fastener is not a good thing. IMO Food for thought. Quality "hand" Drivers are so important. Its half of the equation.
 
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I solved this issue by placing my whole vehicle in the oven at 350° for 45 min. Didn't have to worry about any of the thread locker then.
 
I solved this issue by placing my whole vehicle in the oven at 350° for 45 min. Didn't have to worry about any of the thread locker then.
I like mine medium rare. :ROFLMAO:
 
My threadlock comes from Harbor Freight. Cheap as dirt and so far holds up well. Even on the Noto servo saver. One application and still taking all the abuse I can muster.
Funny you mentioned servo saver . The SS Hub nut. I went to Red because Blue undid itself. And the small amount of red I used also broke free. So I globbed the Red on it and now it holds. But will probably need a Map gas torch to undue that.:LOL:
 
Funny you mentioned servo saver . The SS Hub nut. I went to Red because Blue undid itself. And the small amount of red I used also broke free. So I globbed the Red on it and now it holds. But will probably need a Map gas torch to undue that.:LOL:

I have a map gas torch! haha.. Sure enough though, even on the blue threadlock the servo saver is still kickin. It's Harbor Freight for maybe $1.50. Prolly varies in dependability from bottle to bottle but I think I scored a good one. lol
I did go to LP Backflips in all fairness and comparably easier to move around. I'll be sticking with these though because I really love em.
 
I have a map gas torch! haha.. Sure enough though, even on the blue threadlock the servo saver is still kickin. It's Harbor Freight for maybe $1.50. Prolly varies in dependability from bottle to bottle but I think I scored a good one. lol
I did go to LP Backflips in all fairness and comparably easier to move around. I'll be sticking with these though because I really love em.
I also want the LP BF. My next set. Jenny's is always sold out. I'll check again on Friday. For some reason I always have better luck with low profile tires. That's why I've been running Truggy Track wheels/tires on my K6S. Less issues and all. Less bite of course but I accomodate that in my driving. I blow out tires a lot even though I vent them and watch them closely.
 
I also want the LP BF. My next set. Jenny's is always sold out. I'll check again on Friday. For some reason I always have better luck with low profile tires. That's why I've been running Truggy Track wheels/tires on my K6S. Less issues and all. Less bite of course but I accomodate that in my driving. I blow out tires a lot even though I vent them and watch them closely.
lumidave has a set https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arrma-Outc...322072?hash=item215a9f7b98:g:HOQAAOSwG59c3U0s
 
I also want the LP BF. My next set. Jenny's is always sold out. I'll check again on Friday. For some reason I always have better luck with low profile tires. That's why I've been running Truggy Track wheels/tires on my K6S. Less issues and all. Less bite of course but I accommodate that in my driving. I blow out tires a lot even though I vent them and watch them closely.

$60 shipped from EBAY was close enough to Jenny that adds shipping.
I also like the Minokawa LP on my Talion. Barely any difference in weight to the Katar, they slide when I want and can also work more with airing out.
I busted Katar wheels and blew out rubber on 6s loose dirt first run / first Arrma. I wasn't discouraged because I came from a ERevo 2. Since then I've figured it out. I can't say the Mino LP are better or worse than Katar on surfaces I drive but sure enough, I've been into em lately.
I want to try the newer Katar on my v3 Typhon when I get back to playing with it again.
 
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