Esc battery wire

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Arrma RC's
  1. Typhon 6s
So I just ordered a max6 combo and I will run it with 2 3s batteries. Never soldered battery connectors before and now I'm not entirely sure what cable to use to connect the 2 plugs? I know it should be 10awg, but when I looked into it, I couldn't really find any that would take the amps the system is capable of.

So yeah, help! 😀
 
It comes with wires in the box. Use the same that it comes with. Soldering is not hard with experience. Two biggest mistake is cheap solder. Does not stick. The second is to light of a soldering tool. For cables, the best is a Weller solder gun. You need lots of heat quick. Pencils do not deliver for cable ends. Some make them work. Work it is with them. Have to hold the heat on so long it can cause issues. The gun make a very hot tip that delivers heat for quick melting and connections. Practice on non critical until you have it figured out. Some times a local hobby shop can be talked into soldering for you. It is worth your time to figure out the soldering as it is a good part of the hobby.
 
Also try not to overdo the solder, if you have a hot iron and add too much you might find the last inch of your cable is 100% solid. :dead:
 
At this point it is wise to invest in a few good tools, cable stripper along with solder and gun. Also a work pad for the solder drops to land on.
 
It comes with wires in the box. Use the same that it comes with. Soldering is not hard with experience. Two biggest mistake is cheap solder. Does not stick. The second is to light of a soldering tool. For cables, the best is a Weller solder gun. You need lots of heat quick. Pencils do not deliver for cable ends. Some make them work. Work it is with them. Have to hold the heat on so long it can cause issues. The gun make a very hot tip that delivers heat for quick melting and connections. Practice on non critical until you have it figured out. Some times a local hobby shop can be talked into soldering for you. It is worth your time to figure out the soldering as it is a good part of the hobby.
Oh there is extra cable in the package to connect 2 batteries in series? Didn't know about that, but that'll certainly help.

I learned to solder back in school, so I'm not too worried about the soldering itself, I will do some testing before I go for the esc tho.
 
At this point it is wise to invest in a few good tools, cable stripper along with solder and gun. Also a work pad for the solder drops to land on.
& a "helping hands" station w/ the articulating clips really help w/ holding everything in place. That Klein wire stripper is a godsend for me

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Depends on how long wires needed to get to your batteries. Could be enough if longs are not to long.

I like items like this to hold cable ends. Also can be a heat sink to keep from overheating the connector. There are several kinds.
 
Depends on how long wires needed to get to your batteries. Could be enough if longs are not to long.

I like items like this to hold cable ends. Also can be a heat sink to keep from overheating the connector. There are several kinds.
So if there is not enough wire, what wire would you guys recommend? Some random off of Amazon (mostly rated around 50 amps) or anything special?
 
So if there is not enough wire, what wire would you guys recommend? Some random off of Amazon (mostly rated around 50 amps) or anything special?
I find myself buying wire, connectors, etc. from www.radiocontrolpower.com these days. The price is good and everything I’ve purchased has been high quality.

Amazon is so hit or miss. You might get a decent item or it might be junk.
 
Also try not to overdo the solder, if you have a hot iron and add too much you might find the last inch of your cable is 100% solid. :dead:
+1

What happens is that the solder AND FLUX gets inside flowing deep into the wire strands. Then the flux corrodes the wire inside and snaps easily. Happens without notice down the road. Scratching your head why you have electrical issues. It becomes a hidden problem. Taking too long to solder the joint makes the solder/flux travel deep inside the wire. The wire becomes rigid, not flexible. A sign of this.
60/40 rosin core LEAD solder is the best always. I also use flux paste sparingly as needed sometimes. Not always needed however.
A temp controlled soldering station makes sense. Using only a Large Blunt tip. I set mine to 750F - 800F making for quick soldering of 8/10/12 gage wires.
I always wipe off any excess Flux with a solvent or alcohol, after I solder the joint. The excess flux is not needed after the joint has cooled. It is corrosive.
A good joint is always a Shiny one.
If the joint is dull, it was a bad "Cold joint". Soldering should always happen fast if you have the right equipment. If you struggle and apply heat for so long, connectors and ESC/ lipo will get damaged. Depending what you are soldering.
Always tug on your joints well enough once cooled, to make sure it is very strong. A Cold joint can snap apart. Better check your work.
:cool:
 
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I find myself buying wire, connectors, etc. from www.radiocontrolpower.com these days. The price is good and everything I’ve purchased has been high quality.

Amazon is so hit or miss. You might get a decent item or it might be junk.
Thanks for posting this link. Had not found them. After looking it over, really like the site. One thing is all the screws one can get at decent price. Slowing changing to stainless screws as they do not rust. One really good site.
 
Personally I feel SS hardware in many high stress areas will bend. The hexes round out easier as well. Even if you use quality hex drivers. Been there.
SS always being softer than OE 12.9 grade steel fasteners. Sure they can rust. But it is minimal if you care for your rig. Rust won't reduce 12.9 grade steel integrity/strength overall, IMHO
Tried SS kit on one of my crawlers, a complete swap out. And ultimately one by one, I was swapping back in the Steel screws as they stripped at the hex so easily and bent with impacts.
I could never justify them in any of my hard basher rigs. They are just bling.
I had several new SS screws strip at the hex's first time installing them. I use MIP drivers kept in excellent condition.
 
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Personally I feel SS hardware in many high stress areas will bend. The hexes round out easier as well. Even if you use quality hex drivers. Been there.
SS always being softer than OE 12.9 grade steel fasteners. Sure they can rust. But it is minimal if you care for your rig. Rust won't reduce 12.9 grade steel integrity/strength overall, IMHO
Tried SS kit on one of my crawlers, a complete swap out. And ultimately one by one, I was swapping back in the Steel screws as they stripped at the hex so easily and bent with impacts.
I could never justify them in any of my hard basher rigs. They are just bling.
I had several new SS screws strip at the hex's first time installing them. I use MIP drivers kept in excellent condition.
Thanks for your thoughts. Sure is something to keep in mind and watch for. Think I have seen the bending already.
 
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