Ever wonder what's inside the stock Voltage ESC?

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sadlerbw

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Since the brushless upgrade on my Voltage seems to be functional and not ripping the truck apart, I decided to open up the stock SRS ESC that it came with and see what kind of components ARRMA was using inside this little thing. I didn't take and pictures (sorry!) but it was a very simple board that was absolutely slathered in silicone coating! This thing was so encased in conformal coating that it probably doesn't even need the case to be waterproof, and that is a good thing. The only parts that weren't encased were the pin headers for the external ports, and the tops of the power MOSFETs and LDO's.

Speaking of which, I have no complaints about the main power system ARRMA included in this little ESC. There are 6 power MOSFETs for running the brushed motor: Four Alpha & Omega AOD538's for running the motor forward and two International Rectifier IRFR8314's for reverse. Those are both very respectable parts. The A&O's are 30v, 70A MOSFET's, and the IR's are 30v 179A parts. Now, those amperage ratings are theoretical maximums that no one will ever see in the real world. In reality, they can handle much less continuous current, but you are still probably looking at 30A each for the A&O's, and probably 100A-120A for the IR's. The way they are laid out, you have two AOD538's on the positive side and two on the negative side, and one IRFR8314 each on the positive and negative sides. Now, I have no clue how 'smart' the actual motor controller is, but with two MOSFETs on the positive and negative lines for forward driving it could be doing some current balancing to help spread the heat load between individual parts. It could also just be turning them all on and off at once, which would still spread out the heat load, but not as well. It does look like there is a small transistor being used as a gate drive for each of the six individual MOSFETs, but the traces were too small for my poor eyes to figure out if all six were going to their own pin on the controller, or if they were grouped together. In case you are wondering why there are two massive and awesome MOSFETs for reverse, but four less-aweseome but still very nice MOSFET's for forward drive, I can't say for sure but I do have a guess. There are two things the A&O MOSFETs do better than the IR's: They turn on and off faster, and they shed heat better. I think that second part is why they are used, and why there are twice as many. Well, that and the A&O's cost about half as much as the IR parts, so for the same price as one IRFR8314, you can use two AOD538's! So, assuming the thermal pad that connects the MOSFET's to the heatsink doesn't fail, this little guy should have zero problems meeting it's 40A rating. In fact, if it was a no-name EBay ESC, it would probably be calling its self a 60A model!

The BEC is a bit less amazing: It's just a LM2940 5v low-dropout linear regulator. Actually, there are two LM2940's on the back of the board, but I think one of those is being used as power for driving the gates of the power MOSFET's and the various control chips while the other is exclusively powering the servo/accessory ports. The chips on my ESC were made by UTC, but that doesn't matter a whole lot as a number of places make LM2940's and most of them perform about the same. This particular LDO will typically keep spitting out 5V as long as the battery is putting out around 5.5v or more. In the worst case it could need as much as 5.8v to maintain 5.0v output, but the chip would need to be blazing hot and be putting out a full 1A for that to happen. Basically, it should be perfectly happy pushing 1A at 5.0v all the way down to the low-voltage cutoff of any batteries this ESC supports. The only real downside to this little LDO is that it does start to burn around 0.1A of current at high loads and low voltage differentials. That is really more of an LDO thing in general rather than anything about the particular chip ARRMA chose, so I wouldn't say they made a bad choice. On the up-side these little LDO's are dirt cheap, and require almost no extra components to make them work. You probably could kill one if you added enough extra fans or LED's and consistently started pulling more than 1A, but who does that with a stock Voltage ESC!?

Overall, I was pleasantly surprised when I opened this little guy up. I wasn't expecting the MOSFET's to be nearly as capable as they are, the waterproofing was competent, and even the BEC was better than I expected given that it had a dedicated LDO for the servo rather than making it and the control electronics share one. Kudos to ARRMA for actually putting together a decent little board.
 
probably more information than i will ever need but or be able to understand completely, but it is nice to see that you took the time to look into this for quality check and assurance, coupled with Arrma really taking initiative to utilize/manufacture quality esc's that are built to last.
that said the initial esc i received in my Granite would get super hot even on less than strenuous running, but the fact that Arrma/Horizon Hobby stood behind it and replaced it at no cost even as it was still technically running, reassures my view of them.
 
Wow, Thanks for the in-depth analysis, way more in-depth than i could understand.

I too upgraded mine Voltage to brushless, and i use the stock brushed ESC on "lesser" cars that don't need brushless (my twin hammers clone). Good to hear that's it's really waterproof.
 
Wow, Thanks for the in-depth analysis, way more in-depth than i could understand.

I too upgraded mine Voltage to brushless, and i use the stock brushed ESC on "lesser" cars that don't need brushless (my twin hammers clone). Good to hear that's it's really waterproof.
I picked one up for one of my brushed crawlers because the waterproof aspect and price is just too good! Doesn't have the fancy crawler things but it does what I need it too.
 
I know just enough about electronics to be dangerous, but I’m certainly no expert. I just blew up enough power supplies at work that I was forced to figure out how to read a data sheet so I could stop breaking stuff! Thankfully brushed motors can be driven with really simple circuits that even I can sort through. Brushless honestly isn’t that bad either, at least on the power delivery side. All of the tricky stuff is locked away in the controller chips, and I would need an oscilloscope to see what those are doing while everything is ‘live’. That would be fun, but im not paying for an o-scope just for that!

I know enough to tell the difference between a reasonable and a crappy ESC, but I don’t know enough to tell the difference between a good one and a great one. You could show me a Tekin RX8 and a Castle Mamba, and I probably couldn’t tell you which one was better or why. Give me a no-name EBay model, and I can probably tell if is likely to catch fire during normal use!

The other area where I probably don’t know enough to say anything useful is about the protection circuitry on an ESC. DC motors do some nasty stuff to the circuits that power them in terms of jerking the voltage around and trying to feed power backwards into them. Managing that chaos is a big part of keeping the ESC alive, and I’m honestly not qualified to tell how good of a job ARRMA did on that front. There is one big electrolytic cap that I’m pretty sure is just filtering out some of the voltage spikes, and the LDO powering all the brains will filter out some of the noise as well, but beyond that I think they have to use the MOSFETs that power the motor to do most of the work keeping it from backfeeding into the ESC and blowing things up. I just don’t know enough about the nuts and bolts of actually doing that to guess how well an ESC handles it.

Also, I promise that not every post I write is such a wall of text. I just tend to ramble on when talking about technical stuff.
 
I had a teacher in college that would drone on for days rattling off IC numbers most people had to look up in the book. He would get so excited over every little component. Really made the discrete electronics part of my education a joy. Sadly... it's been 23 years since the education and 20 years since I used it... I'll never forget his love for it though. :)
 
(y)
Since the brushless upgrade on my Voltage seems to be functional and not ripping the truck apart, I decided to open up the stock SRS ESC that it came with and see what kind of components ARRMA was using inside this little thing. I didn't take and pictures (sorry!) but it was a very simple board that was absolutely slathered in silicone coating! This thing was so encased in conformal coating that it probably doesn't even need the case to be waterproof, and that is a good thing. The only parts that weren't encased were the pin headers for the external ports, and the tops of the power MOSFETs and LDO's.

Speaking of which, I have no complaints about the main power system ARRMA included in this little ESC. There are 6 power MOSFETs for running the brushed motor: Four Alpha & Omega AOD538's for running the motor forward and two International Rectifier IRFR8314's for reverse. Those are both very respectable parts. The A&O's are 30v, 70A MOSFET's, and the IR's are 30v 179A parts. Now, those amperage ratings are theoretical maximums that no one will ever see in the real world. In reality, they can handle much less continuous current, but you are still probably looking at 30A each for the A&O's, and probably 100A-120A for the IR's. The way they are laid out, you have two AOD538's on the positive side and two on the negative side, and one IRFR8314 each on the positive and negative sides. Now, I have no clue how 'smart' the actual motor controller is, but with two MOSFETs on the positive and negative lines for forward driving it could be doing some current balancing to help spread the heat load between individual parts. It could also just be turning them all on and off at once, which would still spread out the heat load, but not as well. It does look like there is a small transistor being used as a gate drive for each of the six individual MOSFETs, but the traces were too small for my poor eyes to figure out if all six were going to their own pin on the controller, or if they were grouped together. In case you are wondering why there are two massive and awesome MOSFETs for reverse, but four less-aweseome but still very nice MOSFET's for forward drive, I can't say for sure but I do have a guess. There are two things the A&O MOSFETs do better than the IR's: They turn on and off faster, and they shed heat better. I think that second part is why they are used, and why there are twice as many. Well, that and the A&O's cost about half as much as the IR parts, so for the same price as one IRFR8314, you can use two AOD538's! So, assuming the thermal pad that connects the MOSFET's to the heatsink doesn't fail, this little guy should have zero problems meeting it's 40A rating. In fact, if it was a no-name EBay ESC, it would probably be calling its self a 60A model!

The BEC is a bit less amazing: It's just a LM2940 5v low-dropout linear regulator. Actually, there are two LM2940's on the back of the board, but I think one of those is being used as power for driving the gates of the power MOSFET's and the various control chips while the other is exclusively powering the servo/accessory ports. The chips on my ESC were made by UTC, but that doesn't matter a whole lot as a number of places make LM2940's and most of them perform about the same. This particular LDO will typically keep spitting out 5V as long as the battery is putting out around 5.5v or more. In the worst case it could need as much as 5.8v to maintain 5.0v output, but the chip would need to be blazing hot and be putting out a full 1A for that to happen. Basically, it should be perfectly happy pushing 1A at 5.0v all the way down to the low-voltage cutoff of any batteries this ESC supports. The only real downside to this little LDO is that it does start to burn around 0.1A of current at high loads and low voltage differentials. That is really more of an LDO thing in general rather than anything about the particular chip ARRMA chose, so I wouldn't say they made a bad choice. On the up-side these little LDO's are dirt cheap, and require almost no extra components to make them work. You probably could kill one if you added enough extra fans or LED's and consistently started pulling more than 1A, but who does that with a stock Voltage ESC!?

Overall, I was pleasantly surprised when I opened this little guy up. I wasn't expecting the MOSFET's to be nearly as capable as they are, the waterproofing was competent, and even the BEC was better than I expected given that it had a dedicated LDO for the servo rather than making it and the control electronics share one. Kudos to ARRMA for actually putting together a decent little board.
I didn't understand 99% of this...I will have to google every single acronym and electrical term to better understand but I got the feeling that you think it is good (y)(y)
 
I had a teacher in college that would drone on for days rattling off IC numbers most people had to look up in the book. He would get so excited over every little component. Really made the discrete electronics part of my education a joy. Sadly... it's been 23 years since the education and 20 years since I used it... I'll never forget his love for it though. :)

Well, I don’t love ALL components...opamps can go die in a fire! I will, however, admit to a fascination with solid state power supplies.

Anyway, now that I’ve pulled my Voltage’s ESC apart, I’ve got a vacuum cleaner motor I’m thinking of hooking up to it for a little ‘stress test’!
 
(y)
I didn't understand 99% of this...I will have to google every single acronym and electrical term to better understand but I got the feeling that you think it is good (y)(y)

Lol! Sorry about that. I tried to put at least one non-tech-laden sentence in that post, but looking back now, I can’t seem to find it!

You are correct in that I think it is good. ARRMA says it is a 40A ESC, but I’m pretty sure it could do 40A with one hand tied behind its back. Honestly, if you stuck a big heatsink and fan on it, the components they used could handle double that. I fully expected to find Chinese knock-off components used for the major power circuitry. Instead, not only did I find parts from major, respectable brands, but they were higher-spec than I was expecting to see. I don’t know who designed this board for ARRMA, but I like them!
 
all good @sadlerbw people can always write for the lowest common denominator (ie me)......deep electronics is one of those topics that fro me has the appearance of the English language but is all Greek to me :ROFLMAO:
 
probably more information than i will ever need but or be able to understand completely, but it is nice to see that you took the time to look into this for quality check and assurance, coupled with Arrma really taking initiative to utilize/manufacture quality esc's that are built to last.
that said the initial esc i received in my Granite would get super hot even on less than strenuous running, but the fact that Arrma/Horizon Hobby stood behind it and replaced it at no cost even as it was still technically running, reassures my view of them.
What he said!! X2

That was some pretty in-depth electrical engineering poop right there, kudos. I think I know but I think I knew but three terms.

Can you build something like this from scratch?
 
What he said!! X2

That was some pretty in-depth electrical engineering poop right there, kudos. I think I know but I think I knew but three terms.

Can you build something like this from scratch?
You probably could... but not likely near as small. Hard to deal with surface mount electronics without proper tools.
 
Can you build something like this from scratch?

Well...you can, but writing the software to control it in a more-than-basic way would be the tricky part, and yes it wouldn't likely end up this small. There is actually at least one 'open' ESC project out there where some kind souls have put up designs, specs, and code for an open-source ESC. You could make it yourself, but my solder-fu is not strong enough for some of the teeny-tiny components!

As far as designing one from scratch? Let me tell you a little story: I own a cordless drill, and the Nimh battery pack for said drill died. Rather than just buying another battery (which I ultimately did when I found a Litium Ion pack on sale), I decided to gut the battery pack and try to build myself an AC to DC converter that I could plug into the wall to run the drill. That way I could still use the drill as a corded drill if I couldn't find a cheap replacement battery. My original plan was to make it fit inside the battery pack's plastic case...that didn't work. I also thought I might be able to just 'hack' an old PC power supply...that also didn't work. I did ultimately make it work, sort of. It ended up being the size of a shoebox, even with scrounging some of the expensive stuff it still cost me more to make than just buying a new battery, it weighs several pounds, and the torque is pretty weak compared to a regular corded drill. Also, it has a capacitor in it that is the size of a coke can, and I'm pretty sure it could kill me if I touched it while it was charged!

Point being that SOMEONE could probably design their own ESC, but that someone isn't me! I can build you a really terrible, unregulated AC->DC power supply, and I can solder together my own glitch-busters, but that is about it.
 
As far as designing one from scratch? Let me tell you a little story: I own a cordless drill, and the Nimh battery pack for said drill died. Rather than just buying another battery (which I ultimately did when I found a Litium Ion pack on sale), I decided to gut the battery pack and try to build myself an AC to DC converter that I could plug into the wall to run the drill. That way I could still use the drill as a corded drill if I couldn't find a cheap replacement battery. My original plan was to make it fit inside the battery pack's plastic case...that didn't work. I also thought I might be able to just 'hack' an old PC power supply...that also didn't work. I did ultimately make it work, sort of. It ended up being the size of a shoebox, even with scrounging some of the expensive stuff it still cost me more to make than just buying a new battery, it weighs several pounds, and the torque is pretty weak compared to a regular corded drill. Also, it has a capacitor in it that is the size of a coke can, and I'm pretty sure it could kill me if I touched it while it was charged!

Point being that SOMEONE could probably design their own ESC, but that someone isn't me! I can build you a really terrible, unregulated AC->DC power supply, and I can solder together my own glitch-busters, but that is about it.
That's good stuff!

Before I had LiIon cordless stuff, I used to rip out the nicad's and replace them with good NiMH cells. That was the extent of my "tool hacking". Still have a 4.8V dremel around somewhere my wife uses for her nails that I put 2000mah LSD NiMH cells in. Thing seems to run forever and charges fine on it's own charger since it's such low current.
 
You probably could... but not likely near as small. Hard to deal with surface mount electronics without proper tools.

Most surface mount components are easy enough. Now, BGA (ball grid array), I wouldn't touch those!
 
Most surface mount components are easy enough. Now, BGA (ball grid array), I wouldn't touch those!
Ugh... those tiny little caps/resisters/diodes... no way I could solder those as surface mount. Not even when I was younger and less shaky. Hard enough soldering in a 555 type IC chip. Then again... the last time I did that was in a warehouse with almost no lighting, a broken storage crate for a table and a soldering iron I'm pretty sure a 7yo used to melt crayons with at some point... stupid scanner guns needing to record time with the scans. WHY DIDN'T YOU BUY THEM THAT WAY!!! By the time I did 50 of them, I was near blind. lol!
 
Ugh... those tiny little caps/resisters/diodes... no way I could solder those as surface mount. Not even when I was younger and less shaky. Hard enough soldering in a 555 type IC chip. Then again... the last time I did that was in a warehouse with almost no lighting, a broken storage crate for a table and a soldering iron I'm pretty sure a 7yo used to melt crayons with at some point... stupid scanner guns needing to record time with the scans. WHY DIDN'T YOU BUY THEM THAT WAY!!! By the time I did 50 of them, I was near blind. lol!


I can still do them by eye, but I choose not to, hurts the eyes a bit after a while. I use a microscope. ;) It's all about equipment I suppose. Luckily, my employer has been loose with the purse strings whenever I've wanted something. haha

I've had to deal with conformal coating, like @sadlerbw mentioned in the ESC, a few times. That is some awful stuff. You leave any around when you are doing your rework and you have noxious smoke hitting you while you solder.
 
See, that is what I like about RC: Most of the stuff you might need to solder has big, easily accessible terminals and plenty of room to work. Any project I can do exclusively with the biggest soldering iron tip I have is a good project!

Anyway, I'm thinking about doing some experimenting now that I have this little thing out of its case. None of the major power components would blow up just by putting more voltage into them, so I'm thinking about hooking up a 3S battery and seeing how it behaves. I'm sure the low-voltage cutoff won't know what to do, but other than that it seems like it should run. I was going to try to figure out a little more about the 'brain' of the ESC, but the markings were really faint. All I could tell was that the name 'Eastsoft' was on it.
 
Time for a little back-engineering! I like it. Are you going to try to do a simple schematic? Could help you understand some potential weak points.
 
Maybe, but if I'm honest, I'll probably just throw the 3S on there and see if anything pops! All the FETs are good up to 30v, and the LDO's were happy up to 26v, so none of that is going to care about a 3S getting hooked up instead of a 2S. About the only thing that might is the big electrolytic cap, but I can check that ahead of time and make sure the voltage rating is high enough. If it isn't, it's just a 1000uf cap, so I can probably scrounge a higher voltage one up somewhere and replace it. If I really do blow it up...well, I've got the ESC off my Mega 4x4 as well, so it might get opened up for round 2! Regardless, I will at least strip off as much of the silicone coating as I can so that I can actually stab stuff with a multimeter.

Also, I think is kind of figured out what that Eastsoft 'brain' chip is. Eastsoft appears to be a Chinese company that make a variety of electronics. One thing they make is a line of little all-in-one processors, sort of like an Atmel or Microchip processor. These little things have a processor, a small amount of RAM, some flash storage, and usually some analog-to-digital or basic communications hardware on them. Sort of a mini computer all on one tiny chip. I couldn't figure out exactly which model ARRMA was using, but I'm 99% sure it is one of those little all-in-one chips. Unfortunately, almost everything in their datasheets is in Chinese, but there was a least a pin-out with some english on it. If I can figure out which model ARRMA used, that might at least help guess which pins might be doing what.
 
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