Every Diff ever...

BattleShrink

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Just got a kraton, drove a few packs through it, I've been putting it off cause I was using 4s. I guess I'll get in there, thanks for the reminder.
 

Jerry-rigged

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Actually, that one looks OK. The fluid is covering the cross pins, which is correct. You don't want it full to the top.

But yeah, RTR = Run at your own Risk. Ready to Rebuild. Rebuild before Running. But at least Arrma uses threadlocker... LOL
 

RxMonkey

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An Arrma kit. Still costs $500. No electronics. But a detailed assembly book, aluminum chassis braces/servo mount, necessary diff shims and a clear body to paint yourself. *wakes up to alarm* ahhh damn it was a dream.
 

WTF MIKE

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A bit off topic. I somehow managed to chew up my out put shaft that the dog bone goes into. So my question is do I have to buy a complete diff set in order to get just the out put shaft? I’m not sure if it’s even called an out put shaft lol
 

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2fast4u

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A bit off topic. I somehow managed to chew up my out put shaft that the dog bone goes into. So my question is do I have to buy a complete diff set in order to get just the out put shaft? I’m not sure if it’s even called an out put shaft lol

All the diff outputs are (AR 310439). Outcast, Kraton, Talion, Typhon. I'd probably replace the pins (AR 310440) and O rings (AR 716011) while you're there. And shim it if it's never been done.
 

WTF MIKE

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All the diff outputs are (AR 310439). Outcast, Kraton, Talion, Typhon. I'd probably replace the pins (AR 310440) and O rings (AR 716011) while you're there. And shim it if it's never been done.
Thank you. That’s all been done less than a month ago
 
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ThatDrewGuy

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$600 for a kit that needs all the important stuff.... I love Arrma:mooning:
 

Coopsonthefarm

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Actually, that one looks OK. The fluid is covering the cross pins, which is correct. You don't want it full to the top.

But yeah, RTR = Run at your own Risk. Ready to Rebuild. Rebuild before Running. But at least Arrma uses threadlocker... LOL
Why do you not want to fill the diff all the way up? And if I’ve done so already should I immediately drain them a bit or will it be ok till my next diff mantanance? Thanks
 

olds97_lss

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Why do you not want to fill the diff all the way up? And if I’ve done so already should I immediately drain them a bit or will it be ok till my next diff mantanance? Thanks
When you put the top gear on, it will push out the oil that doesn't fit. I usually fill to the top of the cross bars, level with them. @ThatDrewGuy 's looks like it's to the bottom of the cross bar.
 

Jerry-rigged

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Why do you not want to fill the diff all the way up? And if I’ve done so already should I immediately drain them a bit or will it be ok till my next diff mantanance? Thanks
I would not tear it down just to remove a bit of fluid, personally.

As for why not to fill them all the way up, across many forums, I see arguments for and against leaving some air in the diffs. I have no clue what side of that argument is correct, so I defer to every mfrg build instruction that I have seen - they all say to fill above the cross pins, but leave an air gap. Some show a smaller gap than others, but it is there in every build instruction I have seen. For the diff in the OP, maybe it could use another mm or 2 of oil, but most of my RTR's that I have opened barely have enough to coat the gears... So for a RTR, that OP diff is pretty good. :)

Edit - the Arrma version - filled above the crosspins, but not fully covering the gears. This is from the BLX6s V2 manual -
snap0342.jpg
 
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2fast4u

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I would not tear it down just to remove a bit of fluid, personally.

As for why not to fill them all the way up, across many forums, I see arguments for and against leaving some air in the diffs. I have no clue what side of that argument is correct, so I defer to every mfrg build instruction that I have seen - they all say to fill above the cross pins, but leave an air gap. Some show a smaller gap than others, but it is there in every build instruction I have seen. For the diff in the OP, maybe it could use another mm or 2 of oil, but most of my RTR's that I have opened barely have enough to coat the gears... So for a RTR, that OP diff is pretty good. :)
snap0342.jpg
Edit - the Arrma version - filled above the crosspins, but not fully covering the gears. This is from the BLX6s V2 manual -
View attachment 20321

By the time the other sun gear is in there, I would call that full.
 

Coopsonthefarm

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I would not tear it down just to remove a bit of fluid, personally.

As for why not to fill them all the way up, across many forums, I see arguments for and against leaving some air in the diffs. I have no clue what side of that argument is correct, so I defer to every mfrg build instruction that I have seen - they all say to fill above the cross pins, but leave an air gap. Some show a smaller gap than others, but it is there in every build instruction I have seen. For the diff in the OP, maybe it could use another mm or 2 of oil, but most of my RTR's that I have opened barely have enough to coat the gears... So for a RTR, that OP diff is pretty good. :)

Edit - the Arrma version - filled above the crosspins, but not fully covering the gears. This is from the BLX6s V2 manual -
View attachment 20321
Thanks for the info! Well, mine are shimmed and filled to the brim. Gunna have the first big bash tomorrow on 6s. I’ll keep the forum informed if the diffs experience any negative side effects from being topped off.
 

Jerry-rigged

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Lots of people run with diffs 100% full, so don't expect you will have any issue due to that . :thumbsup
 

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