Vendetta EVERYONE,LETS BUILD A 145/4S VENDETTA

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Enjoying the build, I am going to do the same thing sort of thing to my 4tec regarding the steering servo/rec box. I will send photos here when I am done.
Waiting on parts to really dig into it..I've been really wanting to do a 1/10 car ,did lot of research on a few...would have to research lot more before buying one.im liking this carten t410r..should start a CARTEN 410 SPEEDRUN CHALLENGE. With a 2.47 final they go some speed diffs already in it..tommyrc ran some 150++ 3 or 4s hit with 1..
https://hobbyfactory.fi/en/p65154/carten-t410r-1-10-4wd-touring-car-racing-kit-nha102
 
Waiting on parts to really dig into it..I've been really wanting to do a 1/10 car ,did lot of research on a few...would have to research lot more before buying one.im liking this carten t410r..should start a CARTEN 410 SPEEDRUN CHALLENGE. With a 2.47 final they go some speed diffs already in it..tommyrc ran some 150++ 3 or 4s hit with 1..
https://hobbyfactory.fi/en/p65154/carten-t410r-1-10-4wd-touring-car-racing-kit-nha102
Pretty nice .seems solid
Would it be possible to recess around the steering rack and move the hole thing forward like 2 mm they need also have to move the screw holes back 2 mm also I guess..couple years ago I successfully disassembled steering rack flipped the pieces around an put servo on other side of chassis..I wanna do a mockup an see if xlx2 will fit on chassis if I put steering servo on otherwise of chassis in front of packs...gettingbready to leave an go try for a new 2s pb with another car..1721 with a pinion that's damn near hitting chassis.expect 95-100mphView attachment 284555

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Holy cow that's one huge pinnion gear my lord..
 
Waiting on parts to really dig into it..I've been really wanting to do a 1/10 car ,did lot of research on a few...would have to research lot more before buying one.im liking this carten t410r..should start a CARTEN 410 SPEEDRUN CHALLENGE. With a 2.47 final they go some speed diffs already in it..tommyrc ran some 150++ 3 or 4s hit with 1..
https://hobbyfactory.fi/en/p65154/carten-t410r-1-10-4wd-touring-car-racing-kit-nha102
That is a good price for a car like that.
 
Most people that are at 150mph or less run a MM2. I want data log and POWER so MMX8S is the way to go, the guys that have run 170+ used a MMX8S.
The MM2 fits fine and the MMX8S you have to cram in there so by removing the receiver box I have much more room and I will just mount the receiver on the servo.
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Look at all that composite room!! 😁
Tp4060 40×82 looks small..could run 4070 an possibly 4080 is wanted..lol

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Put new bearings in steering rack an set it to the side it's good to go..trying powerhobbybearing kit in car..looking for some good ceramicouter bearings to try..just the 8 hub an steering block bearings..
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Pulled diffs,inspected an will reinstall.i either use traxxas 20mill or these thicker ear plugs..20ish$ for 20 mil or 8$ for plugs off amazon
Here metal arrma diff an cheap ebay diff ...cheap 30$ diff much better than the 60+$ arrma diff..much longer input gear teeth on red diff..the arrma ones will destroy hot racing spools teeth quik..I'll run red diff in rear..saw 1 issue with red diff.paint missing from rubbing.ill repaint diff case to see future rubbing..I know the issue is from tension from spring in centershaft push input gear into diff cup...

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Have held up so far.

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What I do is super glue bearings onto input gear..by doing this input gear can't move foward pushing it into diff case... I've done this a few times and it always ends up coming loose so this time I applied more Super Glue.thick coat between bearing this time..

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So I reused detta arms,but replaced hubs an steering blocks,turnbuckles,axles...I use SENTON hubs,steering blocksand axle stubs to narrow car 1/2 inch so tires fit better.i use seals for many things..use them instead of spacers to eliminate any movement in suspension.i use solid links instead of shocks so seals work best for me since there's zero suspension travel..seals between arm an chassis will zero play.will most likely use adjustable links instead of fixed ones..

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I use these 17mm adapters an they work great..narrower ones would be ideal for better tire fitment,haven't found any yet though
 

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The seals is a good idea, when I do some work on the car after I break it in, I will do that.
O-ring seals..put them between wheel an hex on all my cars allso ..you'll never-ever have a wheel or hex come off again..seal acts like a lock washer keeping them from coming apart

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Well,got car back kinda together..still thinking on best way to farther upgrade center shaft...I believe it vibrating was alot of my problem.so will use old shaft I upgraded to hold bearing support farther foward for now..will build new one soon an probly use once cars back close to 140..they wear quickly to where bearing no longer fit shaft tightly.VIBRATIONS

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I don't tighten any screws tight,,very loose.run car an tighten up as everything frees up(breaks in)..did a eyeball alignment an put some white straps across each tire..helps ya get sweet spot of tire on pavement...2s with mmx6s tp4060cm-3480kv.just listening for odd sounds seeing how well car rolls an start alignment adjustment, small short hits running temp gun over car looking for any hot spots. Hot spots will show,especially when 30 degrees out..probly about ready for some hits..I'll break it down now an go though power module..mmx8s esc won't go into production till a couple weeks.they are doing xlx2s now so guess cars gonna get 1 for now..

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I run tp4050 an tp4060..kv all depends on volts ya gonna run..these higher kv motors require 8s escz..the okay Tay spool from Demarcus autosport is way better that the hot racing ones.fits smaller gears better an I kept stripping the soft metal teeth on them..worth the cost..currently running 31/32 an it should run 80+ on 2s..test time,start working it up on volts..I did do some trimming on a old v1 module.been running it for a long time..

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Here's a good video of the kind of vibrations these shafts see..kills rpms.im thinking this is my main issue

So basically just need to CNC a solid CF tube to have the same ribbing as a stock plastic center shaft to have it light & balanced.
 
I use these cheap 10$ ebay mounts..like the recessed holes for better screw head gear clearance..I drill it out to except 4mm barrel head screws

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So basically just need to CNC a solid CF tube to have the same ribbing as a stock plastic center shaft to have it light & balanced.
If you could design something like this for these cars to securely support shaft from vibrations it would be a gamechanger..
 

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Pretty much got car back together an ready for some neighborhood hits,only have xlx2s an it'll need 1 anyway so cut 1 in off sidegaurd on chassis to fit..3m dura lock esc to chassis.i need it easy to remove for gear changes.made adjustments getting center part of tires on pavement equally then I'll start adjusting steering links..I do in this order.instant links an ride height,then t-buckles an tire contact,then steering links an toe end last since it's hardest to get right...without shocks in the picture this entire process is much faster an easier.ran car on 2s parrelllel an it was faster than expected..got a baseline # an log an nothing came loose or no crashs..check lines on tires,want them like this before 1st hits or ya will be crashing

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Pulling log know

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