EXB open diff assembly

[KevinP]

Yes under that pin. Shove as many as you can get in there and still slide the pin in place. You want zero slop in the drive cup. It should spin only, no lateral movement at all.

Alright. So shove smaller shims under that pin and keep the single larger diameter shim underneath these smaller ones? I'm guessing I should maintain only one of the larger diameter shim right? As adding one of those would only move the sunguard upward.

 

[jondilly1974]

Alright. So shove smaller shims under that pin and keep the single larger diameter shim underneath these smaller ones? I'm guessing I should maintain only one of the larger diameter shim right? As adding one of those would only move the sunguard upward.

Sounds right to me.

 

[Grimbles]

Alright. So shove smaller shims under that pin and keep the single larger diameter shim underneath these smaller ones? I'm guessing I should maintain only one of the larger diameter shim right? As adding one of those would only move the sunguard upward.

FWIW I can only get 1 0.1mm in diff cup side in one of my diff cups.

 

[KevinC]

Hey @Grimbles .
Having to do this fix now, but waiting on the shim kit and gear set. Rear diff sun gear.......sheared off all of the raised bits....
If I hadn't seen this thread regarding the shim kit, I would be floundering, so thx bro.

Im not sold on the LSD diffs for a few reasons. One.....I’m not sure if I’m good enough to notice the difference and two, more moving parts equals more schit to go wrong.

cheers,
kev

 

[Grimbles]

Hey @Grimbles .
Having to do this fix now, but waiting on the shim kit and gear set. Rear diff sun gear.......sheared off all of the raised bits....
If I hadn't seen this thread regarding the shim kit, I would be floundering, so thx bro.

View attachment 150785

Im not sold on the LSD diffs for a few reasons. One.....I’m not sure if I’m good enough to notice the difference and two, more moving parts equals more schit to go wrong.

cheers,
kev

Welcome buddy. I'm in a similar place tbh. For me I found I'd cooked a couple of the exb diffs running stock 10k. Seem to be doing better with 20k and open on the rear.

 

[Pablo1980]

So I've configured my rear diff to be open aswell. After 1 or 2 packs I noticed my rear diff internals wouldn't turn anymore so I opened it up and noticed the following lmao:
View attachment 149423
Maybe the sungear wasn't sitting properly on the pin all the time? I don't know.. I'm confused wether I should just buy a whole new diff or just the internal gears and replace them.
Thoughts?

That happened to mine but worse as it was pretty much flat, i got it looked at under warranty which they re built it for me but said they have never seen it before and its likely caused by not servicing them enough and not replacing the oil enough but that happened after about three trips out

 

[KevinC]

My Arrma shim kit arrived yesterday thank Jebus! Mojave is up and running again after a three week hiatus.

 

[Rcproponent]

My Arrma shim kit arrived yesterday thank Jebus! Mojave is up and running again after a three week hiatus.

Nice! Someone on here says it’s MOH HAV EHHH! I tend to agree… love these trucks

 

[pstill9302]

So I picked up a couple f/r exb diffs from Jennys and was going to replace the stock ones with the exb's. I bought the shim set to do the open rear diff conversion. Disassembled diff and put the 1.9mm shims in place of the perforated plates. Upon reassembly feels nice and free until the last couple cranks of the ring gear to housing screws (not rambo tight, just nice and snug.) Now the "open" diff feels as tight if not tighter than the one with the lsd plates in it. Disassembled and checked the thickness of the shims vs the lsd stack, both measure 1.83/1.84mm. So I don't understand what is going on. Disassembled the other one and put the shims in that one instead, same result. Anyone have to polish down the 1.9 shims to something less? Do I need to replace the gaskets (seems stupid as they're brand new diffs never run, they're not damaged but do have a small depression from the ridge around the housing.) Maybe they compress too far being reused/retightened? Anyone else run into this?

 

[Grimbles]

So I picked up a couple f/r exb diffs from Jennys and was going to replace the stock ones with the exb's. I bought the shim set to do the open rear diff conversion. Disassembled diff and put the 1.9mm shims in place of the perforated plates. Upon reassembly feels nice and free until the last couple cranks of the ring gear to housing screws (not rambo tight, just nice and snug.) Now the "open" diff feels as tight if not tighter than the one with the lsd plates in it. Disassembled and checked the thickness of the shims vs the lsd stack, both measure 1.83/1.84mm. So I don't understand what is going on. Disassembled the other one and put the shims in that one instead, same result. Anyone have to polish down the 1.9 shims to something less? Do I need to replace the gaskets (seems stupid as they're brand new diffs never run, they're not damaged but do have a small depression from the ridge around the housing.) Maybe they compress too far being reused/retightened? Anyone else run into this?

Only thing I can think is you overtightened the screws?

 

[jondilly1974]

So I picked up a couple f/r exb diffs from Jennys and was going to replace the stock ones with the exb's. I bought the shim set to do the open rear diff conversion. Disassembled diff and put the 1.9mm shims in place of the perforated plates. Upon reassembly feels nice and free until the last couple cranks of the ring gear to housing screws (not rambo tight, just nice and snug.) Now the "open" diff feels as tight if not tighter than the one with the lsd plates in it. Disassembled and checked the thickness of the shims vs the lsd stack, both measure 1.83/1.84mm. So I don't understand what is going on. Disassembled the other one and put the shims in that one instead, same result. Anyone have to polish down the 1.9 shims to something less? Do I need to replace the gaskets (seems stupid as they're brand new diffs never run, they're not damaged but do have a small depression from the ridge around the housing.) Maybe they compress too far being reused/retightened? Anyone else run into this?

Make sure the gaskets are lined up right. Check to see if the pins behind the planetary gears are getting full seated too.

 

[BashingBrian]

Do I need to replace the gaskets (seems stupid as they're brand new diffs never run, they're not damaged but do have a small depression from the ridge around the housing.) Maybe they compress too far being reused/retightened? Anyone else run into this?

@pstill9302 ... I always flip my gaskets over when working on brand new diffs, so as to put that depression facing the crown gear.
That may solve your problem..

 

[pstill9302]

So after multiple put it together take it apart sessions making sure everything was right (since as I said didn't bind up until the last snug of the screws...) I tried putting together w/o one of the larger thin shims behind the crosspin to get a gage on the clearance issue. Still a touch tight. So I removed about .2mm from each thick shim (i.e. thickness of the larger thin shims.) Put together with everything in place and my 1.6/1.7ish thick shims; and felt open, finally. Ran today w/o issue. Front diff w/lsd plates in min effect loosened up/broke in a bit and felt good after some run time. So all is well for now, will do some more runs and see how things go. Then open them up and see what I find. Still at a loss as to why, just relieved with (hopefully) a fix. Mainly wanted to go with these for the larger ring and pinion gears as I've chewed two sets of stock ones in the rear...

 

[jondilly1974]

So after multiple put it together take it apart sessions making sure everything was right (since as I said didn't bind up until the last snug of the screws...) I tried putting together w/o one of the larger thin shims behind the crosspin to get a gage on the clearance issue. Still a touch tight. So I removed about .2mm from each thick shim (i.e. thickness of the larger thin shims.) Put together with everything in place and my 1.6/1.7ish thick shims; and felt open, finally. Ran today w/o issue. Front diff w/lsd plates in min effect loosened up/broke in a bit and felt good after some run time. So all is well for now, will do some more runs and see how things go. Then open them up and see what I find. Still at a loss as to why, just relieved with (hopefully) a fix. Mainly wanted to go with these for the larger ring and pinion gears as I've chewed two sets of stock ones in the rear...

Yeah I’ve found that using about 1.75 to 1.80 of shims worked best for mine too. I prefer using off the shelf shims vs the single Arrma shim as I suspect the single shim to only work in ideal worlds. How often that occurs is unknown.

 

[dziugas1998]

So, did it solve grinding main crown gear on exb kraton?
So, did it solve grinding main crown gear on exb kraton?

 

[Msdn]

So, did it solve grinding main crown gear on exb kraton?
So, did it solve grinding main crown gear on exb kraton?

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/input-gear-shim.41818/