Shocked at the amount of excessive slop in all 4 corners of my outta the box Kraton v5 6s. Is this standard from Arrma? I was expecting better tolerances. The rears are nowhere near shimmed enough & the front turnbuckles have so much play in ball ends that I don’t know how you could ever remedy wheel shake or get this thing to remotely be a tight rig. Am I expecting too much to pay $1k for a rtr that has had a bit of QC before it gets boxed up. I feel like i don’t even want to drive it. Surely you shouldn’t have to repair a rtr before driving it. The stress in critical points is bound to cause premature breakages with minimal effort. Never mind the tyres have been glued on so untrue that the thing wants to shake like a wet dog at walking speed.
Excessive slop in wheels
- Thread starter arrmigo
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They're not race kits so there are going to be wider tolerances. I have shimmed at the hub bearings and hexes to tighten it. The 3S Typhon I had needed a hell of a lot more. I've also had some "wobbly" wheels but thankfully it didn't mean that they needed balancing
Take a video of the issues you're having. Either upload it on here or paste the YT link
Take a video of the issues you're having. Either upload it on here or paste the YT link
stefanmesut
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try to tighten pillow balls but not to much to bind. remove shocks to test for binding. my outcast 8s was the same way.
ThrasherRC
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I have a 3s Typhon and Vorteks on 17mm and the most slop seems to be the 17mm hexes. I thought about using an o-ring under the locking screw but haven't done it yet. I kinda wonder if I trimmed the screw a hair if the countersink on the screw would engage better and get rid of some slop.
What's your method of getting rid of said slop?
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You are lucky.
My Lim was a nightmare out the box. HH sent me close too $200. in needed parts. Factory screwed the wheels on so tight, that the wheels were crushed, hubs damaged wouldn't even roll. BB's damaged. Needed an impact gun to remove 3 of 4 wheels. Chassis poorly stamped. Locked rear diff assembled completely wrong Really bad too. Needed a whole complete diff. Had a long list of part numbers and HH stepped up.
Just that many parts were on B/O at the time. I had got an early Lim release. QC was way off. Never buy an early release. Never. Been there 3 times. No more. I'll wait till the dust settles first.
But yes, slop is normal for these rigs. These are not precision track rigs like stated above.
But they can be worked with. There is much needed preparation before running these. Absolutley remove all 3 diffs and shim and top off the fluids BEFORE running. Or you will be back here with many more issues. Many threads here regarding what to do when new out the box. Good luck.
These need some TLC out the box. Always been that way considering the pricepoint of what you are getting. They are not really Ready to Run.
My Lim was a nightmare out the box. HH sent me close too $200. in needed parts. Factory screwed the wheels on so tight, that the wheels were crushed, hubs damaged wouldn't even roll. BB's damaged. Needed an impact gun to remove 3 of 4 wheels. Chassis poorly stamped. Locked rear diff assembled completely wrong Really bad too. Needed a whole complete diff. Had a long list of part numbers and HH stepped up.
Just that many parts were on B/O at the time. I had got an early Lim release. QC was way off. Never buy an early release. Never. Been there 3 times. No more. I'll wait till the dust settles first.But yes, slop is normal for these rigs. These are not precision track rigs like stated above.
But they can be worked with. There is much needed preparation before running these. Absolutley remove all 3 diffs and shim and top off the fluids BEFORE running. Or you will be back here with many more issues. Many threads here regarding what to do when new out the box. Good luck.
These need some TLC out the box. Always been that way considering the pricepoint of what you are getting. They are not really Ready to Run.
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