BLX Fazon Diff seal and oil

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Kouwe81

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Hello.

I found a wonderfull thread which i will be using to seal my diffs ( hope it will work ): https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/manne´s-nero-bash-build-thread.2269/

Loads of information in there, so i ordered some screws / oils, and now i hope it will work.
My tires were ( and still are ) ballooning like crazy, and i haven't gotten the chance to FULLY 100% my throttle since i have got my Fazon. Everytime i am going fast, and push my throttle to 100%, it makes a wheelie, and becomes almost uncontrollable... Daaaajum! the power :D

I ordered 100.000 CPS diff oil, and also 18 screws to seal my centerdiff according the thread i mentioned earlier. If this isn't enough i will also seal my front / rear diff and fill it with 15.000 CPS oil. I hope the ballooning stops then.
Since the thread is about a Nero ( which is the same as a Fazon, but other diffs? ) will this tutorial also match my Fazon to work on? Anyone with advice about that?
100.000 cps for the center diff, that's ok right? I see people that say: 500K ( so yes, 500.000 ), but that's something else than CPS? I don't see anyhigher values than 100.000 CPS. But i did read that the higher the CPS, the thicker the oil is -> and thicker oil means more resistance, so less ballooning. Please tell me i'm right ;-)
 

fylzz

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I sealed the diff on my Fazon. Removed burnt diff brain servo. Increased the size of the holes to 2,6 mm and put a m3 thread into it. You need max 3mm M3 screw. Be careful to remove all metal scraps from the diff before rebuilding and check that the bevel gear turns freely. I put 300k oil in it. Could be stiffer. 100k is way to soft.
 
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Kouwe81

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I sealed the diff on my Fazon. Removed burnt diff brain servo. Increased the size of the holes to 2,6 mm and put a m3 thread into it. You need max 3mm M3 screw. Be careful to remove all metal scraps from the diff before rebuilding and check that the bevel gear turns freely. I put 300k oil in it. Could be stiffer. 100k is way to soft.
Thanks for your reply. Well, its 100.000 CPS which is different from the 500k ( in CST? ) that i read. The stuff itself is SUPERthick for what i see now. But if this doesn't solve my ballooning problem, i will insert 500K stuff in there.

Is it true that you cannot use the diff-locker no more? Now i can use my remote to choose 4 different kind of diff-lockings: This will be gone then?
 

Mboss

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I used the same method to seal my nero...been holding strong for 2 yrs...just have to change oil. I run 50k/500k/30k...my nero is now my street basher...handles great on speed runs.

I have wheelie bar on my nero...its setup to not wheelie...just lifts off the ground barely...also run src terrian crushers...sweet setup.
 

fylzz

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Yeah you have to remove the diff brain for this diff. I forgot to say that I put some red Loctite on the sealing screws.
 
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Kouwe81

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Loctite will be put on indeed. I don't want loose screws in my diffs ;-)
Hmm, too bad the diffbrain has to be removed for this Diff. So this means the center diff will ALWAYS be locked like its in Wheelie mode. Good thing i have a wheelie bar ;-)
Also ordered 500K diff oil, since everyone is crazy about that.

I really REALLY hope this will solve my ballooning, cause now im being beaten by a Traxxas E-Revo v2 in battle ;-) Everytime i crack my throttle, my tires transform into pancakes :( No turning possible!
 

Mboss

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If you are running stock tires get rid of them...for bashing go backflips...for street run SRC Terran Crushers
 

fylzz

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So this means the center diff will ALWAYS be locked like its in Wheelie mode. Good thing i have a wheelie bar ;-)
No you will not be able to lock the diff completely anymore and there will be more pressure on the front if you accelerate smoothly. If you hit the trigger full force you will still be able to do wheelies.
 

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