Notorious Few problems with new notorious

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Easy enough to sneak the blue thread lock in without taking the truck apart?
If I have to break it all down, I'd rather figure out an upgrade to keep it versatile.... but I reckon no reason to have to adjust it after it's set anyway....
Yes, it can be done. You may want to just remove the right plastic side guard to make more room. With the nut backed down, and the rig on it's left side, you should be able to apply a drop of locktite, then with needle nose pliers turn the nut maybe halfway up and let it sit for 24 hours before you drive it. Another option is to use a cheap 1/8" or 1/4" inch paint brush to brush it onto the threads. Make sure the threads are free from grease, oil, or excessive dirt.
 
Easy enough to sneak the blue thread lock in without taking the truck apart?
If I have to break it all down, I'd rather figure out an upgrade to keep it versatile.... but I reckon no reason to have to adjust it after it's set anyway....
I also used blue loctite and haven’t had an issue since. I just use the blue loctite gel and put a small dab and I don’t have to mess with it again. Once you get it where you want it you shouldn’t have to mess with it again. And if you need too, it’s easy enough to put a little torque and it will come loose again.
 
Yes, it can be done. You may want to just remove the right plastic side guard to make more room. With the nut backed down, and the rig on it's left side, you should be able to apply a drop of locktite, then with needle nose pliers turn the nut maybe halfway up and let it sit for 24 hours before you drive it. Another option is to use a cheap 1/8" or 1/4" inch paint brush to brush it onto the threads. Make sure the threads are free from grease, oil, or excessive dirt.
10-4. Excellent. I'll give it a go. Can't hurt to try either way.
 
Easy enough to sneak the blue thread lock in without taking the truck apart?
If I have to break it all down, I'd rather figure out an upgrade to keep it versatile.... but I reckon no reason to have to adjust it after it's set anyway....

The last time I did it, I used red locktight as the blue gel worked for 4-5 months, then when bashing in a damp environment, the blue let go. I haven't run it since I put red locktite on it.
 
I wish for another fix for the servo saver issue besides threadlock. I wonder if there's a way to put a spacer on there to prevent it from easing down every single run. Only one with the issue is my Noto, no probs on any of the other 6s rigs. Putting threadlock on there seems too permanent but I may be overthinking it.


but the thing is you really have no reason to adjust it once its locked in place, You can pull the whole bell crank without fiddlesticking with teh shaft the nut sits on.. Unless you break the rod the nut sits on everything else can be taken off and replaced while the nut is still locked in place.
 
For what the Arrmas cost, I think they are fine. The biggest issue I see are people slapping 6s batteries into their new Arrma, thinking they’re Rich Duperbash but in reality they can’t drive for sh!t, jumping them and landing 10 ways of wrong and then crying like bitches. It’s exhausting sometimes. These trucks at this price point aren’t indestructible, especially when you land under power, or on the wheelie bar or on one front wheel, etc.
Lol... I seem to relate to that comment. When I first got my 3s senton, I thought it would be as indestructible as just about everyone on youtube made it, like rich dumperdash who's a hell of a driver, so just getting into rc as a hobby, I thought I could just full throttle the whole way and the thought never crossed my mind how expensive it would be to fix some of the parts. I guess it's best learning this the hard way, it's the only method into being sensible with expensive toys
 
Lol... I seem to relate to that comment. When I first got my 3s senton, I thought it would be as indestructible as just about everyone on youtube made it, like rich dumperdash who's a hell of a driver, so just getting into rc as a hobby, I thought I could just full throttle the whole way and the thought never crossed my mind how expensive it would be to fix some of the parts. I guess it's best learning this the hard way, it's the only method into being sensible with expensive toys
There are some serious unrealistic expectations with these trucks. And there are some legitimate gripes. No RC is perfect or indestructible.
 
There are some serious unrealistic expectations with these trucks. And there are some legitimate gripes. No RC is perfect or indestructible.
I beg to differ... the perfect r/c as we all know is obviously the very expensive New Bright 1/28 2016 Mustang GT! It's so perfect, so elegant, so powerful, so industructible, and they even sell them at the greatest store, wal-mart! hahaha
 
Going back to the OP...I too think the Reverse is finicky. Its not always a smooth brake, let go, reapply and hit reverse. I've had numerous traxxas, hpi, and no arrma r/c's. In fact I still have a few (traxxas rally vlx, my kids stampedes) and none were as difficult as this one to get into reverse. There's times my brakes lock up perfectly. Other times my truck keeps rolling forward. It's made me wonder if it's the ESC or the radio. I personally think it's the radio system. I'm going to try a different receiver and radio to see if it helps. If not, I will most like upgrade the ESC and motor to Castle.
 
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