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- Arrma RC's
- Granite
After a year and a half of trying out various upgrades, this build has been holding up well.
*EDIT - I deleted the video I originally included in this post and replaced it with this one.
This build is for jumps so durability and a shock setup that lands well are the priorities. My advice is always not to upgrade unless you have a specific reason. So don't get the titanium turnbuckles if you're not breaking them, don't get the M2C motor mount if your not bending it, etc.
Stock ESC, motor, 15t pinion,10k differential fluid.
Upgrades:
-Tekno SCT410 shocks with emulsion caps
-Arrma 16 mm shock pistons, 1.2 mm front, 1.4 mm rear
-Mojave shock springs in front (ARA330639), Kraton springs in the rear (AR330507)
-80wt shock fluid
-Typhon 3s arms from RPM
-Typhon 3s 17mm axles, hubs and hexes. So durable and reliable.
-Lunsford titanium turnbuckles. You'll never bend another, and there's a lifetime guarantee if you do.
-Proline MX28 tires for high traction on dirt and straight line grass. Trenchers for pavement and turning on grass. Trenchers are more durable and less traction is actually better to slide out turns instead of traction rolling.
-Savox SW-1210SG servo. This servo is a TANK
-Kimbrough 124 servo saver
-Spektrum DX5 Rugged transmitter with SR515 receiver. I have a V2 Granite, which came with the crappy transmitter. Probably not necessary for V3.
-M2C motor mount plate. IMO the aluminum chassis block isn't needed. It's just extra weight and may actually cause problems (see my post below)
-Boca Bearings motor bearings - SMR695C-2OS #7 NB2 and SMR625C-2OS #7 NB2 - Very expensive, but they've lasted over a year so far.
-Jim's Bearings rubber sealed bearings for all other bearings
-Arrma 4s tower to tower center brace - helps save the rear diff from damage from chassis flex once you start jumping over 10 feet high.
-Arrma 4s body posts - the flex helps prevent the body from cracking around the body mount holes.
-Arrma 4s battery straps
-Arrma centre driveshaft support. Maybe unnecessary for the short wheel base Granite.
-Hot Racing differential yoke (rear only) - prevents rear differential damage.
-Hot Racing pivot balls
-Hot Racing aluminum servo link. It comes with the Hot Racing servo saver. I don't use the servo saver, only the link. (ATF48SH02)
-Innovateking 30mm, 28000rpm aluminum motor fan. The same fan is sold under many different brands. They all work well, just get the best price.
-Fan cover - 30mm Black Fan Finger Grill (on Amazon)
-Proline 1966 Ford F-100 body - actually a very weak body, the V3 Granite body is much stronger, I just love the look
-Proline Secure-Loc Cap body mount kit - the body mount pins kept cracking my bodies, the Pro-line caps make a big difference.
Modifications:
- Sealed the power module with foam tape. Keeps dirt out of the power module and saves your spur gear and motor bearing.
- Shimmed the steering bellcrank. I think it's the number one fix to improve 3s steering precision.
- Reinforced the ESC wire where it connects to the cap pack with electric tape. That solder joint snaps easily.
- Stuffed the bumper springs with foam tape. They're much more durable with reinforcement.
- Shoe goo and cement board tape to reinforce the body. Cement board tape is stronger than drywall tape and easier to apply. I've also tried E6000 instead of shoe goo. E6000 is more flexible and stays together great, but it flexes too much and the lexan ends up cracking.
- Foam tape inside the body and on top of sanded down shock towers to prevent the shock towers from cutting into the body.
- Heat moldable plastic for roof skids and a tailguard
- Reinforced the rear battery strap with Gorilla tape.
- WD-40 on all plastics
This build is for jumps so durability and a shock setup that lands well are the priorities. My advice is always not to upgrade unless you have a specific reason. So don't get the titanium turnbuckles if you're not breaking them, don't get the M2C motor mount if your not bending it, etc.
Stock ESC, motor, 15t pinion,10k differential fluid.
Upgrades:
-Tekno SCT410 shocks with emulsion caps
-Arrma 16 mm shock pistons, 1.2 mm front, 1.4 mm rear
-Mojave shock springs in front (ARA330639), Kraton springs in the rear (AR330507)
-80wt shock fluid
-Typhon 3s arms from RPM
-Typhon 3s 17mm axles, hubs and hexes. So durable and reliable.
-Lunsford titanium turnbuckles. You'll never bend another, and there's a lifetime guarantee if you do.
-Proline MX28 tires for high traction on dirt and straight line grass. Trenchers for pavement and turning on grass. Trenchers are more durable and less traction is actually better to slide out turns instead of traction rolling.
-Savox SW-1210SG servo. This servo is a TANK
-Kimbrough 124 servo saver
-Spektrum DX5 Rugged transmitter with SR515 receiver. I have a V2 Granite, which came with the crappy transmitter. Probably not necessary for V3.
-M2C motor mount plate. IMO the aluminum chassis block isn't needed. It's just extra weight and may actually cause problems (see my post below)
-Boca Bearings motor bearings - SMR695C-2OS #7 NB2 and SMR625C-2OS #7 NB2 - Very expensive, but they've lasted over a year so far.
-Jim's Bearings rubber sealed bearings for all other bearings
-Arrma 4s tower to tower center brace - helps save the rear diff from damage from chassis flex once you start jumping over 10 feet high.
-Arrma 4s body posts - the flex helps prevent the body from cracking around the body mount holes.
-Arrma 4s battery straps
-Arrma centre driveshaft support. Maybe unnecessary for the short wheel base Granite.
-Hot Racing differential yoke (rear only) - prevents rear differential damage.
-Hot Racing pivot balls
-Hot Racing aluminum servo link. It comes with the Hot Racing servo saver. I don't use the servo saver, only the link. (ATF48SH02)
-Innovateking 30mm, 28000rpm aluminum motor fan. The same fan is sold under many different brands. They all work well, just get the best price.
-Fan cover - 30mm Black Fan Finger Grill (on Amazon)
-Proline 1966 Ford F-100 body - actually a very weak body, the V3 Granite body is much stronger, I just love the look
-Proline Secure-Loc Cap body mount kit - the body mount pins kept cracking my bodies, the Pro-line caps make a big difference.
Modifications:
- Sealed the power module with foam tape. Keeps dirt out of the power module and saves your spur gear and motor bearing.
- Shimmed the steering bellcrank. I think it's the number one fix to improve 3s steering precision.
- Reinforced the ESC wire where it connects to the cap pack with electric tape. That solder joint snaps easily.
- Stuffed the bumper springs with foam tape. They're much more durable with reinforcement.
- Shoe goo and cement board tape to reinforce the body. Cement board tape is stronger than drywall tape and easier to apply. I've also tried E6000 instead of shoe goo. E6000 is more flexible and stays together great, but it flexes too much and the lexan ends up cracking.
- Foam tape inside the body and on top of sanded down shock towers to prevent the shock towers from cutting into the body.
- Heat moldable plastic for roof skids and a tailguard
- Reinforced the rear battery strap with Gorilla tape.
- WD-40 on all plastics
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