Fireteam Fireteam Motor?

[parcou]

Look at the Hobbywing 4278. A little bit more Kv and a bigger can to keep it cooler and have more torque.

Thx for this... I am not well-versed in motors I am cool with a 4278. What I do not understand is if the kv's are in the similar area...what does a 92mm length give or take away vs. 78mm length?

 

[dure16]

Thx for this... I am not well-versed in motors I am cool with a 4278. What I do not understand is if the kv's are in the similar area...what does a 92mm length give or take away vs. 78mm length?

Motor performance is almost entirely based on size/weight. That 14mm makes a big difference.

 

[sumguy75]

For me the biggest reason I'm putting a 4092 on my Fireteam is temps. Longer can will give more power and has more surface area for heat dissipation. Also super easy to fit 2 fans on a longer can if necessary.

Really helps I grabbed my 4092 on sale from rcjuice.com a while back for $40 off.

 

[parcou]

I have a Hobbystar 4092 that I will be putting in with a Max6 this week. Pretty much doing it so temps aren't a problem once warm weather moves in. Weather will be too cold and icy for me to run it until Sunday, but looking forward to seeing what it can do.

I took advantage of the Hobbystar sale and got the 4292 for $60 even shipped.

So what size pinion are you going with? Stock is 13T, so I was I was thinking 18T or 20T. My goal is not for more speed or power just want the motor to run cooler but with keeping the same performance.

I ran this in my Fireteam for a little while and it was great. Good middle ground between stock and 4985. It would be hard to find a better value.

SURPASS HOBBY Rocket 4092 1650KV Brushless Sensorless Motor Shaft 5mm for 1/8 RC Car https://a.co/d/1GBimzR

Did you go with that 4092 if so what size pinion are you running?

 

[dure16]

Did you go with that 4092 if so what size pinion are you running?

I’d do 16-17T without fan or 18-19T with fan.

 

[sumguy75]

I took advantage of the Hobbystar sale and got the 4292 for $60 even shipped.

So what size pinion are you going with? Stock is 13T, so I was I was thinking 18T or 20T. My goal is not for more speed or power just want the motor to run cooler but with keeping the same performance.

I've got the 1480kv version. Running a 22t pinion for a while now. Definitely faster than stock but still lots of torque. I need 2 fans to keep it below 150 once outside temps are 70+.

Im thinking of dropping it to 20t for the rest of summer so those 90+ degree days wont be an issue. Will still be PLENTY fast on 20t running 6s.

 

[parcou]

I've got the 1480kv version. Running a 22t pinion for a while now. Definitely faster than stock but still lots of torque. I need 2 fans to keep it below 150 once outside temps are 70+.

Im thinking of dropping it to 20t for the rest of summer so those 90+ degree days wont be an issue. Will still be PLENTY fast on 20t running 6s.

Not sure how you have diffs setups mine is stock diffs weights now. It does not wheelie I like that a lot.

With your new setup do you have any problem keeping the front down?

 

[Garcbomber]

Adding more power and torque while limiting wheelies? That center planetary set will be scorching on heavy acceleration with light fluid and/or you'll need to limit punch/trigger input ramp delay. Seems counterproductive, no?

Can always add some weight to the end of the bumper and run battery forward, that's what I do for 0-60mph but it had Dolly Parton air control.

 

[sumguy75]

Not sure how you have diffs setups mine is stock diffs weights now. It does not wheelie I like that a lot.

With your new setup do you have any problem keeping the front down?

I experimented with different diff fluid weights some and tried 50k front and 500k center, rear has stayed 20k. With 500k it wants to wheelie, not terrible but a more than i wanted. 50k up front was ok on grass but didnt care for it on dirt.

I switched back to 30/100/20k for the weekend and like it. I would still like to try 200k in the center but the local shop didn't have it in stock. Ordered some and will try it next time i service the center diff.

 

[parcou]

Adding more power and torque while limiting wheelies? That center planetary set will be scorching on heavy acceleration with light fluid and/or you'll need to limit punch/trigger input ramp delay. Seems counterproductive, no?

Can always add some weight to the end of the bumper and run battery forward, that's what I do for 0-60mph but it had Dolly Parton air control.

Thx all feedback is helpful. With the stock diff fluid, which is 10/100/10k nothing has burned in all my 20+ runs...worthing thinking about tho

I did similar with my Kraton EXB has Max6 & 4985 HW motor took the center to 100k (50/100/20k) but does have an LSD center/front, so more like 200k center...BUT I only run it at 4S with a 20T pinion. It moves and stays down perfectly.

I do not want to 4S the FT....will play with some controls as you posted. Thx

I experimented with different diff fluid weights some and tried 50k front and 500k center, rear has stayed 20k. With 500k it wants to wheelie, not terrible but a more than i wanted. 50k up front was ok on grass but didnt care for it on dirt.

I switched back to 30/100/20k for the weekend and like it. I would still like to try 200k in the center but the local shop didn't have it in stock. Ordered some and will try it next time i service the center diff.

Before you posted this and THANKS I had in mind going 50/200/20k (open diffs), which is my classic setup for Infraction 6S, Talion, and Kraton, but I did 50/100/20k in Kraton EXB since it has LSD center to make it closer to 200K.

Those stay down well. Now I do understand I will need to use trigger control I just do not want it to walk every time I gun it. Mostly I am in dirt bashing and racing my best Bud so loose surfaces for me. All those above stays planted on take off so has the FT (stock) so will modify the stock fluids, play with the punch and see what I get with an 18T pinion.

A good start and good advice....as we say to the others...it's about testing and trying until I hit the sweet spot.

Thx!!

 

[SrC]

I took advantage of the Hobbystar sale and got the 4292 for $60 even shipped.

So what size pinion are you going with? Stock is 13T, so I was I was thinking 18T or 20T. My goal is not for more speed or power just want the motor to run cooler but with keeping the same performance.




Did you go with that 4092 if so what size pinion are you running?

When in doubt and she runs hot in the few hot summer months, I would just gear lower. Sometimes just 1 Tooth down makes all the difference. The stocker 2050 is fine. FWIW I test them out to be 1930 Kv's +/-, all of them , so they are not really 2050kv anyway. Yeah the FT is a heavy lady with that Caged body. Will always be. Just need to work around that personality of hers. Running smaller tires will also drop the overall final drive down some, for the summer months. run cooler.
Don't overlook the Motor BB's. Motor will run hotter if they are worn and /or not cleaned and well oiled. Ceramic Motor BB's are an option if you haven't done so already.

>> I also noticed that the Center diff creates much more heat than the Motor does. Check the Center Diff temps next time. Heat can transfer to the motor easily from that Center diff. I recently saw 240F+ temps just from my Center stock Metal diff in my FT. You just know that heat is getting towards the motor transferring through the motor mount. Double check this. Or you may be chasing a ghost trying to cool the Motor for no reason. The Center diff will truly burn your fingers, I did! It got that hot. I run 500k -1Mil. FWIW. The heavy FT weight makes the center diff work overtime. It will cook. It is not a wonder why Arrma chose to install the Metal Center diff out the box with the FT.. A plastic diff would literally melt down. And I been there also with my Kraton. It gets hot and ugly.
Some ideas.

 

[parcou]

When in doubt and she runs hot in the few hot summer months, I would just gear lower. Sometimes just 1 Tooth down makes all the difference. The stocker 2050 is fine. FWIW I test them out to be 1930 Kv's +/-, all of them , so they are not really 2050kv anyway. Yeah the FT is a heavy lady with that Caged body. Will always be. Just need to work around that personality of hers. Running smaller tires will also drop the overall final drive down some, for the summer months. run cooler.
Don't overlook the Motor BB's. Motor will run hotter if they are worn and /or not cleaned and well oiled. Ceramic Motor BB's are an option if you haven't done so already.

>> I also noticed that the Center diff creates much more heat than the Motor does. Check the Center Diff temps next time. Heat can transfer to the motor easily from that Center diff. I recently saw 240F+ temps just from my Center stock Metal diff in my FT. You just know that heat is getting towards the motor transferring through the motor mount. Double check this. Or you may be chasing a ghost trying to cool the Motor for no reason. The Center diff will truly burn your fingers, I did! It got that hot. I run 500k -1Mil. FWIW. The heavy FT weight makes the center diff work overtime. It will cook. It is not a wonder why Arrma chose to install the Metal Center diff out the box with the FT.. A plastic diff would literally melt down. And I been there also with my Kraton. It gets hot and ugly.
Some ideas.

You are right the 2050 is good and I recall you posting those numbers. I love the BLX version when I can get one since it has the ribs. You taught me about the bearings, and I do use a hybrid version, but I never thought to look to temp test the center diff. I just put the new Hobbystar motor back together using some of that Super Lube you showed me before a future first run.

Still going to check all that out...thanks for the tips, on it!