Fireteam Fireteam...Well I thought I would get one, and give my Opinion and how I set mine up. Staying very stock'ish.

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HMM..... the Tally EXB braces Are in fact Keyed?....???
I want the cheapest Keyed option out there.
@parcou linked me an EBay site that had "keyed"generics. He said they fit well on his FT.
Inexpensive as a pair.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2345548425...pid=5337696215&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1
Yeah be wearing of what that guy says.

Same seller sold me these https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/ebay-titanium-shock-towers.47144/

And I have seen a few people that have bought his aluminum hubs and they don't even fit.
 
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I think that seller just buys in bulk from Aliexpress/Alibaba and provides a US shipped source. I tried their 3s motor plate and it has worked well (better than stock).

I have had my doubts on some of their products though..
 
I think that seller just buys in bulk from Aliexpress/Alibaba and provides a US shipped source. I tried their 3s motor plate and it has worked well (better than stock).

I have had my doubts on some of their products though..

He is definitely not from the US, look at his broken English in the thread I posted. Someone else handles the shipping of the items in the US. He probably works directly with the manufacturer is my best guess.
 
@SrC if you do order those chassis braces I am interested in knowing if and how well they fit as those are the only ones other than the M2C Racing ones that I could find and not sure I want to spend $70 on chassis braces.
 
The price was right. Quick delivery being it comes from a few miles away from me.
The fit was good. they are keyed into the chassis. Not M2C quality but works fine enough for the price no doubt. The Rear one even cleared the Handbrake. Machined good enough.
One thing however....
The front brace at the ST Top plate is not threaded for a 4mm screw. Like the stocker and EXB braces are. Uses the smaller 3mm screw. I just flipped the FT EXB top plate upside down using the smaller 3mm hole in the Top plate. I could have drilled out and tapped a 4mm screw. But didn't care to do that. Not going the extra mile with this rig.

BTW, This will be my winter rig and will probably trash this one. I never had a beater rig per se. This will be it. A cheap budget RC for me.
That HB sucks big time. I can't even set its servo endpoints. The Bracket flexes horribly And that HB switch is easily pressed without wanting , while just gripping it.. SLT3 has no endpoint adjustment for channel 3.(n) All will be yanked out soon. :rolleyes:

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I bench tested the Motor before and after I disassembled it . The BB's were bone dry and noisey. I lubed Lubed them up. Was going to throw in a spare set of Ceramics I have here. Not worth it IMHO.
And the actual KV of the motor is not 2050kv. Fall short a bit.

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I removed much of the ESC wires. Shortened mains wires. A single brick is how I fly. One XT90.
Remounted the "Crap" pack. Ripped out all the Smart wiring.:LOL:

Removed the stripped out motor mount screw etc. Used 3mm socket heads
Also:

-15T speed gear installed.
-Adjusted ST endpoints after installing the DS3235.
- Calibrated Throttle.
- Set ESC parameters....7.4v BEC, Dropped Reverse Power all the way ( 25%), Dropped Timing down to 3.7 degrees, Punch at default , Brake force to 87.5%.
- Installed the CF sleeve over the T2T brace.
- Relocated the ESC switch to the ESC mount.
- installed 4 ST Bb's
- moved the battery tray to rearward postion.
Pretty much done.
Needs a wheel alignment yet.
Then put it on my Crossweight scale. And run it this weekend.

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That’s quite the comprehensive list of things that needed addressing. We got our nephew a FT for Christmas. I believe he should be involved with a tear down and complete checkup before we ever even charge a pack. He needs to learn a lot more about wrenching anyway.
Thanks for a great post!
 
@SrC you never cease to surprise me with showing how much can be done on an vehicles that are advertised as an RTR.

RTR is a very misleading description of most of the rc cars on the market, I'm yet to get one that didn't have some sort of assembly errors or defects from the factory.
 
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I removed much of the ESC wires. Shortened mains wires. A single brick is how I fly. One XT90.
Remounted the "Crap" pack. Ripped out all the Smart wiring.:LOL:

Removed the stripped out motor mount screw etc. Used 3mm socket heads
Also:

-15T speed gear installed.
-Adjusted ST endpoints after installing the DS3235.
- Calibrated Throttle.
- Set ESC parameters....7.4v BEC, Dropped Reverse Power all the way ( 25%), Dropped Timing down to 3.7 degrees, Punch at default , Brake force to 87.5%.
- Installed the CF sleeve over the T2T brace.
- Relocated the ESC switch to the ESC mount.
- installed 4 ST Bb's
- moved the battery tray to rearward postion.
Pretty much done.
Needs a wheel alignment yet.
Then put it on my Crossweight scale. And run it this weekend.

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View attachment 261192

View attachment 261193
Nice @SrC, thank you! I am surprised how bad the tires were out of balance... :oops:

Were your droop screws okay?
 
True, but the Fireteam seems to have a lot of errors, mine had a lot as well.
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/fireteam-build.57631/#post-847728
My FT was not my worst example of an Arrma RTR. My V1 early release Lim was. It was so bad I should have just returned it once I opened the box. That one was horrible. HH sent me close to $300. in parts for a $400 roller, a simple Roller that it was. Considering its $MAP$ the FT should have been assembled much better as a luxury product. China labor falls short. Like many disposable products they make.
When you buy a model in Kit form you have to build it before you can drive it. Knowing how it works. Any mistakes are your fault.
A RTR is a tease because you expect to drive it out the box. Assy. should be correct. That quick satisfaction. Yet if you do, it will crap out and be a frustration.
Best to go over any RTR first . Completely. You learn what makes it tick etc. How to wrench on it, being ahead of the curve. A tall order for many newbs. I get it.
 
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Nice @SrC, thank you! I am surprised how bad the tires were out of balance... :oops:

Were your droop screws okay?
Droops were not stripped. I never swapped them for better ones. And I left them with droop bottomed out as is, for now, at Zero droop. Seems Arrma wants that extreme tall chassis clearance. :unsure:
I'll try it that way first.
I've had way worse unbalanced wheels before.. The CH2's and the 6s BF's are normally always way worse. Sometimes needing clay in 2 postitions of the wheel to get them close enough to being balanced.:rolleyes:
FT wheels look to be very nicely designed, strong and rigid. Glued very well!
I don't expect the best traction however.
@SrC if you do order those chassis braces I am interested in knowing if and how well they fit as those are the only ones other than the M2C Racing ones that I could find and not sure I want to spend $70 on chassis braces.
The F/R Brace price was right. Quick delivery being it comes from a few miles away from me.
The fit was good. they are keyed into the chassis. Not M2C quality but works fine enough for the price no doubt. The Rear one even cleared the Handbrake. Machined good enough.
One thing however....
The front brace at the ST Top plate is not threaded for a 4mm screw. Like the stocker and EXB braces are. Uses the smaller 3mm screw. I just flipped the FT EXB top plate upside down using the smaller 3mm hole in the Top plate. I could have drilled out and tapped a 4mm screw. But didn't care to do that. Not going the extra mile with this rig.
 
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I have yet to touch the 3 diffs. Most important before I run this FT.
Still Waiting for the Mugen Seiki diff shim set for a proper build. (#MUGE0206)


Edit.

Just delivered...:giggle: One pack will do all 3 diffs. I keep spares on hand. This Mugen part can sometimes go on B/O for months on end. These hardly wear out however, unlike the stocker shims. Keeps the Satellite and Sun gears well aligned.

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That is a very nice and detailed write up, exactly what I have come to appreciate from you. You know there are blemished M2C chassis for the Fireteam/Mojave for just 105 bucks. I don’t think they have a many left…
 
My FT was not my worst example of an Arrma RTR. My V1 early release Lim was. It was so bad I should have just returned it once I opened the box. That one was horrible. HH sent me close to $300. in parts for a $400 roller, a simple Roller that it was. Considering its $MAP$ the FT should have been assembled much better as a luxury product. China labor falls short. Like many disposable products they make.
When you buy a model in Kit form you have to build it before you can drive it. Knowing how it works. Any mistakes are your fault.
A RTR is a tease because you expect to drive it out the box. Assy. should be correct. That quick satisfaction. Yet if you do, it will crap out and be a frustration.
Best to go over any RTR first . Completely. You learn what makes it tick etc. How to wrench on it, being ahead of the curve. A tall order for many newbs. I get it.

I've seen kits come with incorrect or missing parts before but it happens a lot less.
I have yet to touch the 3 diffs. Most important before I run this FT.
Still Waiting for the Mugen Seiki diff shim set for a proper build. (#MUGE0206)


Edit.

Just delivered...:giggle: One pack will do all 3 diffs. I keep spares on hand. This Mugen part can sometimes go on B/O for months on end. These hardly wear out however, unlike the stocker shims. Keeps the Satellite and Sun gears well aligned.

View attachment 261217
Shoot I need more of those all I have left are the smaller washers from the time Tower sent me a package that was missing the large washers.
^^^
What a deal!!! M2C blem chassis....My name written all over it...
I picked one up too 😂
 
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