Fireteam Fireteam.....What 2 year old put this thing together?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
In the past 5 years I've only gone through like maybe RTR 8 diffs, 4 of them were from when I first got it and had no idea what I was doing, I've broken 2 diff pins and broke 2 diff out drives but I have not broken any of the internal gears amazingly. But that being said the RTR diffs are rather pathetic when compared to other 1/8th scale diffs on the market. Just check out the diffs for a Tekno, HB Racing or the HPI Vorza and you will see what I'm talking about.

Let me find a picture of the Arrma diffs next to the diffs out of a Hot Bodies D8T, these are the same diffs that come stock in the HPI Vorza except for the aluminum diff pin.

Arrma on top Hot Bodies on the bottom.

View attachment 269324
Thats almost the price of a 3s truck in diffs.
Regarding the RTR diff pins. Sometimes you get lucky and Arrma pins are just fine. And then you get a batch that split into 3 pieces, taking out your Sun Gear, toast, along with the satellite gears.

I Dremel cut my Diff pins now from HS drill bit blanks or drill bit shanks. I have great luck with them now. Never broke one yet. Just make sure to cut them to fit exactly as stockers and also Round out the edges VERY well! Most important. Always checking the fit inside a loose Sun gear by hand. They will last. The Sun gears will split apart before the pin does. (y) Arrma Diff gears are not Machined. They are Sintered "Cast" metal. Why they wear out easily. Heavier diff oils make them last longer from my experience. Changing out the oil every 15-20 runs makes them last longer. Also, the initial fill of oil is the breakin oil. Since they are not machined, the gears need to break-in/ bed in to each other. The oil becomes very dark from the gears soft cast metal wear.
My Tekno diffs are bullet proof out the box.
I think the issue would be less terrible if you could buy the pins made out of tool steel like from mugen seiki
Im at like 60 packs since my last maintenance on my kraton exb. From spring up to automn idk if im going to service it for the begining of this season
 
Thats almost the price of a 3s truck in diffs.

Considering that is over a period of 5 years that isn't that bad. Like I said 4 of them were in the first few months of owning the truck, so in the other 4 years of ownership I have gone through 1 diff per year, considering how hard I am on it that's rather impressive. But now I have this case full of spare diff parts.

1673566499338.jpeg

I thought Tekno was made in Taiwan.
I know it is a US company.(y) Mexico makes sense. Very close to Tekno's Headquarter's.
Yes Tekno is made in Taiwan.
 
Last edited:
I hate to be "that guy" but I think that is optimistic on any 6s rig unless you are driving like Miss Daisy.

Have you considered dropping down to 4s for reliability?
I meant MAJOR service. will edit. like full tear down service.

I got that on my baja-rey, e-revo v2 no problem.
 
Last edited:
Don't feel so bad.
Mine was assembled by a whole crew of 2 year olds. Same with numerous others, having (9)Arrma 6s rigs in all.
INNER Hub BB's exploding only 3 minutes into the first run etc. A joke. Differentials that are always low on oil. No wonder why your diffs are all jacked up.
If you don't completely disassemble your FT out the box, and I mean every single part, even right down to the motor BB's etc. ( need oil on them) you won't discover every flaw. Or most of them. Some just plain 2 year old mistakes. China is going through some hard times right now and this past year. Their labor force in many factories are stretched out very thin. Moral is very poor. Like 75% have Covid or a new strain of it. People are dying in droves. The Gov't is horrible. No Covid meds available for the sick. Their Covid testing kits are flawed. I don't blame the people. CCP won't take meds from other countries. Gov't is in denial, yet killing off their people. With their own invented Bio warfare disease that they created. Gov't ego gets in the way of any common sense. China is tanking right now.
HH should take their production elsewhere. Maybe Taiwan, etc. . Might just cost more to do this.. Sucks that HH can't do a thing about it. Except offer the FireTeam at a Fire Sale price. Which they did recently and sold thousands of the FT's. Many new to Arrma are ending up here on Arrmaforum. Count your blessings that you only paid $400. for it. Hope you did. As I did. I never would have bought it otherwise. At all.
I would Call HH and let them know of all the parts you need due to poor QC at the factory. They absolutely know what crap they are selling. And usually own up. Get a parts list with numbers together. Also send them Pix. What I would do, and recently did with my FT. And have done many times past. I noticed Many stripped out plastics also. Drives me crazy!!! This really $adds$ up if you have to replace/buy them yourself. Use the 2 HH Year warranty.
Good luck. :cool:
"Out the box" Arrma RTR's ALL suck. Just rebuild them when new before running them, and they are very good rigs. Designed fairly well by Arrma, UK.
Tip:
use 60k front/ 500k center/ 30k Rear diff oils, when you rebuild all of them. Need to check ALL 3 diffs . Empty out, clean well with Auto Brake cleaner spray, each part and gear, then refill them with these proper CST oils. Sparing you grief down the road. Very important to SHIM the Fr and Rr diffs also. Use the include shims in the box.

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...aying-very-stockish.57824/page-16#post-868811

Edited.

Yep I read your whole thread and got some ideas and tips. Thanks! Per my update post above I am almost done. Even the new diff came almost completely empty. I got the $400 deal. Been wanting to break into a bigger scale but spending almost $1k was hard to swallow for me and especially the wife. Someday Ill get me a DBXLE and Super baja rey and that will be it. lol

I had a few stripped screws but most were not really important so a little drop of super glue in the hole and let dry with screw in makes it all good for a few more services.
 
Bent shock shaft!!! Got 3 runs in and not sure when but its bent. Sticks when full compressed. And the M2C outdrives are no better then the OEM ones, same wear as originals:cautious:






20230203_095925.jpg




20230123_122921.jpg
 
Bent shock shaft!!! Got 3 runs in and not sure when but its bent. Sticks when full compressed. And the M2C outdrives are no better then the OEM ones, same wear as originals:cautious:






View attachment 275315



View attachment 275314
At least your body is holding up pretty good! Your motor coming apart is the first I have seen, and I can see loctite on that thread! How on earth :LOL:
 
ANOTHER MOTOR!!!!???

With the amount of rain and free time I have used this thing 4 times since the shock bent. It started to stutter on full throttle take offs, Then just fully quit. The ESC turns on, No chimes though, Green blinking start pattern, red light whenever i give throttle etc. But no movement from motor. Motor free spins, its not frozen. Horizon wants me to ship the whole car back to them at my expense!!!

Does the chimes come from the motor or the esc?

Trying to find someone with a spare motor to test before I send it in for warranty
 
ANOTHER MOTOR!!!!???

With the amount of rain and free time I have used this thing 4 times since the shock bent. It started to stutter on full throttle take offs, Then just fully quit. The ESC turns on, No chimes though, Green blinking start pattern, red light whenever i give throttle etc. But no movement from motor. Motor free spins, its not frozen. Horizon wants me to ship the whole car back to them at my expense!!!

Does the chimes come from the motor or the esc?

Trying to find someone with a spare motor to test before I send it in for warranty
Does the motor has magnetism? Most likely the esc gave out
 
Does the motor has magnetism? Most likely the esc gave out
I think I get what your getting at. But motor spins freely and smoothly so don't think it ate itself. Anyways I popped on Jennys rc and grabbed a spare esc and motor. Next time they die. I am going to a diff brand..hobbywing or whatever.
 
Arrma should do kits like tamiya does. I've only built 3, but it's so much fun building a car like that.
Not trusting QC and having to disassemble a RTR entirely is no fun at all.

I was lucky with my fireteam tbh. No major issues, not even a stuck grub in the wheelhubs
I'd agree with that. With a good set of instructions like the old stuff had. Yeah it took a good chunk of time but when you were done you knew exactly how it went together.
 
ANOTHER MOTOR!!!!???

With the amount of rain and free time I have used this thing 4 times since the shock bent. It started to stutter on full throttle take offs, Then just fully quit. The ESC turns on, No chimes though, Green blinking start pattern, red light whenever i give throttle etc. But no movement from motor. Motor free spins, its not frozen. Horizon wants me to ship the whole car back to them at my expense!!!

Does the chimes come from the motor or the esc?

Trying to find someone with a spare motor to test before I send it in for warranty
Chimes come from the motor.
 
This whole thread blows my mind. I have 3 6s cars and 3 3s cars. All arrma. I’ve never had an issue that wasn’t self inflicted. At least nothing comes to mind. My brother has 3 also and he’s had the same experience.
 
Chimes come from the motor.
That is so weird. I may have had too many. Beers in me at the time , could have sworn the chimes came from esc when I had my Baja rey..

But anyways either esc is not putting out power or motor is dead inside. Once I get the replacements I'll see which one and the email horizon back the findings. Maybe they will let me just send electronics back and go from there instead of whole car.
This whole thread blows my mind. I have 3 6s cars and 3 3s cars. All arrma. I’ve never had an issue that wasn’t self inflicted. At least nothing comes to mind. My brother has 3 also and he’s had the same experience.
It seems mine was built on Friday afternoon. Going to get some bigger fans on the motor and remove the people/guns etc or mod some air intake. Was brainstorming that heat may be a slight factor in killing the motor with how I drive.
 
That is so weird. I may have had too many. Beers in me at the time , could have sworn the chimes came from esc when I had my Baja rey..

But anyways either esc is not putting out power or motor is dead inside. Once I get the replacements I'll see which one and the email horizon back the findings. Maybe they will let me just send electronics back and go from there instead of whole car.

It seems mine was built on Friday afternoon. Going to get some bigger fans on the motor and remove the people/guns etc or mod some air intake. Was brainstorming that heat may be a slight factor in killing the motor with how I drive.
I even run a 16t pinion on my Kraton and noto and I have not had overheating issues. I’m genuinely sorry for the bad experience you’ve had. They should really warranty the whole car out for you. Now that I’ve owned a few of them I wouldn’t buy a complete 6s car again. I’d build it with aftermarket/Jenny’s parts. Maybe that’s something you could consider. Just rebuilding with a bunch of new stuff kind of like I just did with my Kraton. Also, I hope you are utilizing the horizon warranty now.

8C0837AF-56F5-465F-825D-E8F60F7D3C89.jpeg
 
I'm so dumb... I ordered the "fireteam motor assy with heatsink for $60, when I could have ordered it without the heatsink for $40 lol anyways I got a spare Fan. Whatever.

But it was the motor that was toasted. I think I'm having thermal issues maybe? And the front bearing is super notchy while the back bearing is buttery smooth... This was the issue on the first motor as well. The front bearing seized up pretty much.

Any suggestions on the new motor to help it last longer????


20230412_183532.jpg
20230412_183640.jpg
20230412_183731.jpg
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top