Notorious First bash with Notorious...broken

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Dutch213 said:
do you jump the notorious?
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No that’s my buddies truck and the Kraton is my other buddies I just have a granite .... my buddies notorious always breaks too but he’s rough on it idk how many times he’s had to replace things on it like shocks a arms etc etc if I got a higher end arma I’d definitely get the Kraton
 
Either Kraton proline mt 4x4 or the tekno mt410 will be my next truck or I’ve been thinking about making a drag viechle
 
Getting back on track to my original post. I had itchy ordering fingers at work again today. I ordered a tbone racing wing mount and xv4 front bumper/skid.
 
doolin64 said:
Getting back on track to my original post. I had itchy ordering fingers at work again today. I ordered a tbone racing wing mount and xv4 front bumper/skid.
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Yeah I’ve heard good things about tbone stuff and I ordered me some last week and they will be here Thursday I will post pics for ya
 
I'm gonna preface this with one word... rum.
Someone on page 2 brought up Rich D. I wanna make this observation. Notice when he's making his long jumps... he waits. He doesn't make quick corrections, he thinks about what the truck is ACTUALLY doing before he makes his corrections. Which usually results in him landing on (mostly) all 4 wheels. Except when he landed on his Subaru. Well, I think he still landed on all 4, but we'll have to check the replay.
Anyway... actually, that was it. Carry on.
 
bicketybam said:
So the lowest ride height is better when jumping? I didn't know that. I figured a higher ride help would be better. I also thought shock oil was to control rebound?[/QUOTE
Dialing in more preload will give you a higher ride height, that will help with landing by reducing chassis slap somewhat, but on huge jumps thicker shock oil will help more. The purpose of shock oil is to provide damping, in both compression and rebound.
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It definitely needs some upgrades out of the box, #1 thing I would spend money on is some Tekno shock springs, and maybe the shocks too, but I haven't tried the Arrma since they made the thicker shafts, maybe OK for a while if you have the recent Arrma shocks. See various threads about Tekno springs, I forget what I'm running, but it makes a world of difference. Stock springs and oil weights are garbage.

#2 hardened pinion gear, I like 15t for Outcast, but I'm also running a 2000kv motor from the Nero and MMX ESC, both with Wild Turbo fans attached, so trial and error so you don't overheat the electronics.
#3 RPM front bumper
#4 metal servo mount - your choice, or do the $3 aluminum post mod if you're cheap
#5 metal chassis braces - also haven't tried the stock plastic ones since they were updated for V3 trucks, eliminates flex, but I never broke a plastic one.
#6 HR aluminum cup for center diff, add heavy oil, prevents blowout of the plastic cup

These are all pretty cheap items that will harden up the truck a lot and make it work better. After that you can get into more HR parts and Mugen diff internals. I also like the HR motor mount setup, makes for easy change of pinion or motor.

I've never broken a stock wing mount running as Kraton or Outcast (I have parts to make mine either truck).
 
jonUF02 said:
It definitely needs some upgrades out of the box, #1 thing I would spend money on is some Tekno shock springs, and maybe the shocks too, but I haven't tried the Arrma since they made the thicker shafts, maybe OK for a while if you have the recent Arrma shocks. See various threads about Tekno springs, I forget what I'm running, but it makes a world of difference. Stock springs and oil weights are garbage.

#2 hardened pinion gear, I like 15t for Outcast, but I'm also running a 2000kv motor from the Nero and MMX ESC, both with Wild Turbo fans attached, so trial and error so you don't overheat the electronics.
#3 RPM front bumper
#4 metal servo mount - your choice, or do the $3 aluminum post mod if you're cheap
#5 metal chassis braces - also haven't tried the stock plastic ones since they were updated for V3 trucks, eliminates flex, but I never broke a plastic one.
#6 HR aluminum cup for center diff, add heavy oil, prevents blowout of the plastic cup

These are all pretty cheap items that will harden up the truck a lot and make it work better. After that you can get into more HR parts and Mugen diff internals. I also like the HR motor mount setup, makes for easy change of pinion or motor.

I've never broken a stock wing mount running as Kraton or Outcast (I have parts to make mine either truck).
Click to expand...

The latest outcast/notorious has stiffer springs than the tekno orange ones people used to swap out on the v1 outcast.

I didn't break the wing on mine, but I did rip it off and rip the bolt heads through the stock mount as well as turned it into an S. I have an RPM one now.

Broke the stock wheelie bar though in my first or second set of packs.

I also shattered my front chassis brace. Replaced with HR for both front and rear.

I think the current servo mount is built a bit stiffer as well.

I haven't had any issues running arrma pinions. I run 4S, so that may be why. Same with the center diff, I did shim all 3 of my diffs and am running 100/500/100 oil in them. I hadn't run across any threads about replacing diff internals with Mugen. Perhaps shimming helps with that. Unless your talking about the Mugen shim kit, which I did use.
 
Didn't know about change in springs, but the all Orange were too stiff for me. I went through lots of tuning with springs and oils to get it where I wanted it, handling like a trophy truck.

I went with the complete Mugen diff internals last time I broke the front, harder gears and the shims.

4s isn't even a challenge, if you want to run 6s you're going to break cheap Arrma pinion almost day 1, and maybe diff gears.
 
jonUF02 said:
Didn't know about change in springs, but the all Orange were too stiff for me. I went through lots of tuning with springs and oils to get it where I wanted it, handling like a trophy truck.

I went with the complete Mugen diff internals last time I broke the front, harder gears and the shims.

4s isn't even a challenge, if you want to run 6s you're going to break cheap Arrma pinion almost day 1, and maybe diff gears.
Click to expand...
Good to know. Got any part numbers on the mugen diff internals? If I end up getting a HR center cup, might go with the better internal gears as well, just for longevity.
 
I think the diff kit from anu Mugen 1/8 7 series would be the same. Maybe 8 series too? I would compare part numbers from Mugen diagrams to be 100% sure.
 
jonUF02 said:
Didn't know about change in springs, but the all Orange were too stiff for me. I went through lots of tuning with springs and oils to get it where I wanted it, handling like a trophy truck.

I went with the complete Mugen diff internals last time I broke the front, harder gears and the shims.

4s isn't even a challenge, if you want to run 6s you're going to break cheap Arrma pinion almost day 1, and maybe diff gears.
Click to expand...

I've been running 6s in my Kraton since July and I use an Arrma pinion. Same with my Notorious and Typhon. I guess I'm getting lucky!
 
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