Big Rock First post. Already having a bad first day with my BRCC.

[Velodromed]

There’s a wealth of information out there. I like razor RC the best when I’m working on something. When I got my vorteks I sat down watching his videos and went down the list doing every check that I could. It’s really helped avoid a lot of headaches out in the field.

 

[symbiotix]

Thanks man, that last video is money. I had read/seen all the other stuff, but that Vorteks vid is super useful for me. Funny when I was disassembling it for the first time I was shocked by the fact the spur gear is just exposed at the bottom where all the sand accumulates. Going to seal that up tonight.

 

[Kusher]

Ide even think about getting a metal spur but that gear to me looked ok I've used mine when it was way worse lol. But if course I abuse the sh*t out of my big rock. Mesh did look too far apart just scoot it a bit . Should be a pic in the manual of how close should.be and whatnot. Good luck happy bashing!

 

[GraniteFox]

Amazon: $4.99

ARRMA HD 57T Spur Gear, 0.8Mod, ARA310947​

 

[Freelander]

I thought about getting a metal one but they're like 50 bucks.

I must have shredded 5 or 6 of them before I got my technique dialed in for getting a good mesh and setting the slipper clutch.

It still happens from time to time.

I figure for how long the plastic ones *can* last it's better to just replace with the cheap plastic part for now.

They were hard to find for a bit last summer so I bought a few every time I could. I've ended up with a few spares laying around which seems like a really good precaution. Driveshafts are the other thing I have a few of just waiting.

 

[symbiotix]

Got two spurs on order (along with a bunch or other random stuff).

My next stumbling block seems to be the little screws that hold the driveshaft to the axle. I was removing them to put on some loctite as recommended in the above videos. 2 of the 4 seem completely torqued on there to the point where they bend my hex key. I'm guessing they are fine to leave as is because they certainly aren't going to back off on their own? Or should I get in there with some liquid wrench and try to get them out now while they are still new?

Once again help is appreciated.

 

[symbiotix]

Beginning to think I got a lemon. I'm guessing the wheels/tires are supposed to be a little more balanced than this as well?

 

[Puddlejumpernva]

The stock turnbuckle pivot balls are crap. There is so much slop everywhere. Steering, camber, servo and shocks. It doesn't help when the plastic of the wheel hub deforms when tightening down the nuts (which need to be loctited and checked often btw). Your wobble is not unusual or really excessive in my opinion.

Look into getting the Hot Racing pivot balls or the Traxxas mod to tighten things up.

 

[Senton_Prime]

You need GPM turnbuckles and 2 tierods.. HR servo savor with the fixed link.. Im about to finish it up with a HR steering bell crank and shes as tight as a real car!! I got the GPM shock tower braces.. I got black ones coming.. Too much red!!

 

[Ruzty1311]

I wouldn't worry about the wobble here. Its a basher and you probably wont notice it when your hittin the dirt haha

I noticed you had washers in the motor housing for the motor mount screws.....was that you that added them or did arrma finally figure it out lol?

don't forget to loctite those screws so your mesh doesn't come loose!

 

[Kla912000]

Beginning to think I got a lemon. I'm guessing the wheels/tires are supposed to be a little more balanced than this as well?

You didn't get a lemon. There's nothing wrong with the wheels. It's a basher 4x4 not a precision 200mph speed run car. All RCs are gonna have their own set of problems, no matter the brand, none are gonna be perfect. Just run it, beat the hell out of it and fix what breaks and do it all over again.

 

[Freelander]

Got two spurs on order (along with a bunch or other random stuff).

My next stumbling block seems to be the little screws that hold the driveshaft to the axle. I was removing them to put on some loctite as recommended in the above videos. 2 of the 4 seem completely torqued on there to the point where they bend my hex key. I'm guessing they are fine to leave as is because they certainly aren't going to back off on their own? Or should I get in there with some liquid wrench and try to get them out now while they are still new?

Once again help is appreciated.

Get a couple good long hex drivers. Bigger handles will give you more torque to remove (or strip) screws!

If you get those drive shafts off with the wheels still on you can have a firm grip on the tire to crack them/remove those drive shaft to wheel axle screws. Otherwise I use a pair of channel locks on the wheel nut.

It's really satisfying when you get a good gear mesh and the slipper is adjusted well. The plastic spur can last a very long time. You still gotta open it up and clean out the crap inside every so often. Especially since I find the spur runs the inside of the motor mount a bit and until it breaks in you'll find fine black dust inside which can be bad for your motor.

Don't sweat roasting spur gears.

It happened so much to me for a while that once I got the hang of it I have an unopened delivery of 3 of the spur gears from months ago still sitting unopened.

 

[symbiotix]

Awesome guys thanks once again. I certainly have learned a tonne in the last 3 days. The truck is an absolute blast. I will definitely check out some better tools, as my hex set from Princess Auto (Canadian version of Harbor Freight) is undoubtedly made from some Chinese white metal.

I'll also add some turnbuckle/pivot balls to the shopping list.

Senton Prime: digging that cover to keep the debris out. Do you remember where you got it?

 

[Freelander]

Awesome guys thanks once again. I certainly have learned a tonne in the last 3 days. The truck is an absolute blast. I will definitely check out some better tools, as my hex set from Princess Auto (Canadian version of Harbor Freight) is undoubtedly made from some Chinese white metal.

I'll also add some turnbuckle/pivot balls to the shopping list.

Senton Prime: digging that cover to keep the debris out. Do you remember where you got it?

Canadian here. I am very familiar with the use once and discard quality of tool available at princess auto! POWER FIST brand

 

[Senton_Prime]

Thats a Raiden Racing dust cover.. Lil fab work for the install.. I highly recommend a big 40mm fan or anything high power before installing the cover!!
I got it awhile ago.. Im pretty sure they have one now for the senton.. specific fitment now but i could be wrong!?

 

[zumsteg]

You need GPM turnbuckles and 2 tierods.. HR servo savor with the fixed link.. Im about to finish it up with a HR steering bell crank and shes as tight as a real car!! I got the GPM shock tower braces.. I got black ones coming.. Too much red!! View attachment 160186

Looking good there! How is it working out with the alloy tie rods and turnbuckles in relation to the plastic a-arms and driveshafts?

 

[Senton_Prime]

No slack, no play, everything is tight and right!!

 

[Surchaufeur]

If ur mesh is good it will last a while. I had a 3s car with the stock plastic spur and it lasted til i sold it. Even the friend i sold it to was still ripping the stock spur. But i slotted the chassi under the spur so thats maybe why

 

[symbiotix]

Still rocking the stock spur. Cleaned it up a little and familiarized myself with gear mesh and slipper clutch adjustment etc.

Today my stock servo randomly died. Pulled it all apart and checked the connections and everything seems solid. Absolutely no noise from the servo.

I already have a 25kg replacement but am waiting for the servo saver to show up. Is it common for the stock servo to die after only two weeks?

 

[Senton_Prime]

Yea, most def if u didnt set the endpoints.. If thats the case lucky u made it this far!!