Infraction First road car

[Fishtank]

So my son wanted to do a build thread so here we go. New 6S Infraction RTR going to take out the stock motor/ESC and replace it with a Hobbywing Max6 and 1650 motor. Going with a powerhobby fan set and a savox sw-1211sg servo for steering.
My next question is it worth the money to get titanium drive shafts?
For bearings I was going to go with fast eddys ceramic bearings.
Going to change fluids to 60k front 500k middle 40k rear.
Any input would be greatly appreciated. I know there’s some crazy fast infractions out with tons of upgrades. Thanks

 

[parcou]

So my son wanted to do a build thread so here we go. New 6S Infraction RTR going to take out the stock motor/ESC and replace it with a Hobbywing Max6 and 1650 motor. Going with a powerhobby fan set and a savox sw-1211sg servo for steering.
My next question is it worth the money to get titanium drive shafts?
For bearings I was going to go with fast eddys ceramic bearings.
Going to change fluids to 60k front 500k middle 40k rear.
Any input would be greatly appreciated. I know there’s some crazy fast infractions out with tons of upgrades. Thanks

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Wow

You are doing a lot here... Have you bashed one already or new to the rig? Is it a drifter for bashing or a speed runner? Speed running build is very different from, a basher build

I have a v1 since 2020 and it's basher....stock setup is excellent for bashing. Drive train, shock, etc all good no need to upgrade for drift bashing or speed running they will hold...Oh, center driveshaft can bend yes I agree to those. Good bearings are always good nothing wrong with that. I would go different on the diff fluids but again how are you all going to use it?

Have fun with your project with your son.

 

[Senton_Prime]

I'll take your electronics.. esc, motor!!? If you update your rx/tx ill take the rx as well

 

[Tex Koder]

Looks like you're ready to strip it all down and build it up from scratch. Nice

 

[Smilinbri]

Have fun!!!

 

[Fishtank]

Wow

You are doing a lot here... Have you bashed one already or new to the rig? Is it a drifter for bashing or a speed runner? Speed running build is very different from, a basher build

I have a v1 since 2020 and it's basher....stock setup is excellent for bashing. Drive train, shock, etc all good no need to upgrade for drift bashing or speed running they will hold...Oh, center driveshaft can bend yes I agree to those. Good bearings are always good nothing wrong with that. I would go different on the diff fluids but again how are you all going to use it?

Have fun with your project with your son.

Well, I’ve been into RC cars for 37 years. Bashing kratons since 2010 have 4 now (3) 1/8 and (1) 1/5 I still have my original v1 car with the red motor it’s a Frankenstein car at this point. I actually bought the Hobbywing for a kraton EXB put it in and was just to much so I took it out and it’s just been sitting in the closet. I’ve always wanted a road car so I figured why not. Here’s my 1/5 kraton.

 

[Diem Turner]

I think you're gonna love that car. I'm probably biased because I have a highly modified one myself, but I loved it straight out of the box. I think any of the 1/7 scale road racers from ARRMA will profit from better center drive shafts, irrespective of what you wind up doing with it. You'll need to Dremel out the recesses for the drive shafts in the front/rear braces a little to get them to fit and don't forget to remove the bearing drive shaft stabilizer. The GPM hardened steel shafts are an improvement over the stock shafts, but obviously don't punch at the same weight class as the Ti shafts from Scorched. The reduction in driveline vibration will do a lot to save the diff input bearings from premature wear as well. If you got the coin (and it doesn't appear that that is your problem), I'd highly reccommend them.

 

[Fishtank]

I think you're gonna love that car. I'm probably biased because I have a highly modified one myself, but I loved it straight out of the box. I think any of the 1/7 scale road racers from ARRMA will profit from better center drive shafts, irrespective of what you wind up doing with it. You'll need to Dremel out the recesses for the drive shafts in the front/rear braces a little to get them to fit and don't forget to remove the bearing drive shaft stabilizer. The GPM hardened steel shafts are an improvement over the stock shafts, but obviously don't punch at the same weight class as the Ti shafts from Scorched. The reduction in driveline vibration will do a lot to save the diff input bearings from premature wear as well. If you got the coin (and it doesn't appear that that is your problem), I'd highly reccommend them.

I've learned over the years the main drivetrain takes a beating on the Kratons and the infractions the same so I just want to lighten/strengthen that area since I'm looking to run in the 80MPH range. Going to replace the diff carrier with a Hot Racing alum one and center diff mount. My wife says my favorite part is building the cars and that I always have ONE being worked on. To your coin comment like I tell my son I may not "know" where the coma goes but I can build about anything with or without instructions and outwork most men and that has taken me around the world. Plus I always wanted to prove all the haters wrong that the trades can take you wherever you want to go in life.
Have the ESC and motor with fans installed along with the new servo. The rest of the parts should be here mid next week.

 

[SrC]

I think you're gonna love that car. I'm probably biased because I have a highly modified one myself, but I loved it straight out of the box. I think any of the 1/7 scale road racers from ARRMA will profit from better center drive shafts, irrespective of what you wind up doing with it. You'll need to Dremel out the recesses for the drive shafts in the front/rear braces a little to get them to fit and don't forget to remove the bearing drive shaft stabilizer. The GPM hardened steel shafts are an improvement over the stock shafts, but obviously don't punch at the same weight class as the Ti shafts from Scorched. The reduction in driveline vibration will do a lot to save the diff input bearings from premature wear as well. If you got the coin (and it doesn't appear that that is your problem), I'd highly reccommend them.

I have both the GPMs and the Scorcthed Ti versions. Lim and Infr.
In retrospect, vibration is the same for both. A slight improvement over stock, yes. Understand that it is the Very long REAR driveshaft that has the vibration/oscillation issue. You can leave the front Driveshaft in place. Of no consequence at all. It runs fine. But many are quick to change out $both$ Fr and Rr. For drifting, don't bother replacing the Drive shafts. Your call, if you like the bling. Speed running well over 100mph is where it helps the most. My spin.
You did not state how fast your objective is (if speed running)
Also, the rear DS BB support is garbage. throw it away. Get rid of the Hand Brake also. It is just Fluff, a novelty that wears off quick. Just adds servo Idle Amp overhead onto the BEC circuit. Is useless in practical function.
If just hooning around and drifting, you do not need all those upgrades. Out the box, she Hoons around just fine and on 6s. 8s is overkill if just drifting. Just wasting your money, and on smoked tires.
Enjoy your Infr. there.

 

[Fishtank]

I'll take your electronics.. esc, motor!!? If you update your rx/tx ill take the rx as well

going to use it in a kraton upgrade. I have a original v1 car with the red motor that i want to rebuild and update.

I have both the GPMs and the Scorcthed Ti versions. Lim and Infr.
In retrospect, vibration is the same for both. A slight improvement over stock, yes. Understand that it is the Very long REAR driveshaft that has the vibration/oscillation issue. You can leave the front Driveshaft in place. Of no consequence at all. It runs fine. But many are quick to change out $both$ Fr and Rr. For drifting, don't bother replacing the Drive shafts. Your call, if you like the bling. Speed running well over 100mph is where it helps the most. My spin.
You did not state how fast your objective is (if speed running)
Also, the rear DS BB support is garbage. throw it away. Get rid of the Hand Brake also. It is just Fluff, a novelty that wears off quick. Just adds servo Idle Amp overhead onto the BEC circuit. Is useless in practical function.
If just hooning around and drifting, you do not need all those upgrades. Out the box, she Hoons around just fine and on 6s. 8s is overkill if just drifting. Just wasting your money, and on smoked tires.
Enjoy your Infr. there.

See this is the info I like, I was thinking of removing the hand brake, I'll do that today. You said the rear DS BB support is garbage and to remove it. Just run without it? I wasn't a big fan of it in the first place. I only did the rear DS in titanium the rest I am leaving for now.

 

[Fishtank]

I removed the hand brake, installed and tested the servo and ESC/motor. Just waiting on parts to finish up.

 

[Fishtank]

Most of the parts showed up today. Waiting on rear drive shaft, filler plates and rear wing. Going to test run it tonight.

 

[Fishtank]

Build update:
The only parts were waiting on.
titanium drive shafts
Carbon fiber side fillers
Titanium motor mount screws
All the fluids have been changed 60k front 500k center and 30k rear. New ceramic bearings. Carbon front splitter. I couldn’t wait to drive it so I’m running the stock drive shafts and a 15T pinion gear. Figured I’d get used to driving before I get to crazy. Cars FAST with the 15T pinion I can’t wait to bump it up to a 20T.

A couple more pictures.

 

[Fishtank]

Like I said before this forum has me wanting all kinds of stuff! Had to get a GPS now. Then a mount. Gotta know how fast I’m not going!

 

[Fishtank]

Build update. Scorched earth showed up today.
The side fillers
Titanium rear drive shaft
Titanium motor screw
I’m still running a 15T pinion gear getting comfortable with “drifting” the truck around and learning very small wheel movements.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Highly recommend removing all the adapters. Deans are rated to something like 40-60 amps and have been known to melt under heavy loads.
Stick with the iC5 or EC5 connectors if you are bashing.

This car is going to remain a basher? If so you got a great setup there.
If you want to go high speed sadly you would have to change up the ESC, spool, and tires.

 

[Fishtank]

I’ve never had a deans melt in 20 years. I build my own plugs. I’d bet most melted plugs are from bad soldering and not over loading. The max battery I run is 50c so I’m not really worried about it. It’s just a street basher I figure running in the 80’s is plenty fast enough for me.

 

[AIan]

Like I said before this forum has me wanting all kinds of stuff! Had to get a GPS now. Then a mount. Gotta know how fast I’m not going!

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This is how it starts!, knowing how fast your going makes you wanna go faster muahahahaaaaaa

 

[AIan]

Also I agree about the dean’s connectors, I solder very well, over 20+ years in HVAC, and other electronics over the years, and I made a deans to ic5 connector and on the first6s run on my tfl pursuit boat the physical connector melted, lucky it didn’t short. But now I use all amass xt150’s on my rc’s. I’d just hat see you lose your stuff due to a connector

 

[Fishtank]

I’ve been driving the truck getting used to it. I want to add some weight to the back end. I figure I weight about 1 ounce more then the factory RTR so I’m happy with that. I’m going to add some brass weights to the rear left/center see if I can shift some weight to the rear for better breaking.