Limitless First run after finishing

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Jester194

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Arrma RC's
  1. Talion EXB
  2. Typhon 6s
Well where do I begin .... How you guys keep these on the street amazes me, I got sideways everywhere, gyro helped a lot cause I probably would have destroyed it... Overheated but have esc set to 170 like you guys said, pinion gear loosened up and motor freewheeled, other then that it was good, I did the 2 antenna upgrade and the thing just goes and range stays around 97 ... Any recommendations for this beginner would be greatly appreciated...
I have 29 tooth pinion and 34 spur on spool, think that's to much???
 
Setup, setup, setup. Toe and camber have to be right. Suspension has to be right. Everything has to be right. It’s a learning curve but you’ll get it. The lift test is a good indicator of what the car will do. Lift up the front with a driver or something in the middle. Both tires should come off the ground at the SAME time. If they don’t the car can be, “darty”. Get used to running without the gyro at first. Then you’ll get real feedback from the car. As far as overheating get a temp gun. That gearing isn’t meant for back to back passes. Do a pass and check the temp. You might be able to get a couple passes but check them after every pass to start with.
 
You're using the nb4, correct? Did you try to assign one of the dial type knobs for throttle timing? That's what I would suggest if you haven't already. Maybe start @ something like 10 seconds & it will slowly/smoothly ramp up your power. As you progress you can shorten it to maybe 6 seconds. You can also assign another dial for steering timing as well, to get some of the twitchiness out of it. I think I set mine to 3 or 4 seconds (don't quote me on that) This is all assuming you have the room/road to do these things. These two settings have greatly improved my #'s
 
Would you recommend avoiding a gyro forever? Or only early on?
Early on. I run Futaba gyros but don’t always use them. If I’m out running and I’m getting a little more crosswind than I feel comfortable with then I turn it on. But using a gyro from day one is a recipe for disaster, IMO. You’ll never really “learn” the car.
You're using the nb4, correct? Did you try to assign one of the dial type knobs for throttle timing? That's what I would suggest if you haven't already. Maybe start @ something like 10 seconds & it will slowly/smoothly ramp up your power. As you progress you can shorten it to maybe 6 seconds. You can also assign another dial for steering timing as well, to get some of the twitchiness out of it. I think I set mine to 3 or 4 seconds (don't quote me on that) This is all assuming you have the room/road to do these things. These two settings have greatly improved my #'s
Probably .3 or .4 seconds. Otherwise you could retire waiting for your car to turn. 🤣 I think I’m at .2 or maybe even .1 delay with the ProModeler. Just enough to stop it from being snappy. I also run 100% expo and don’t turn down my DR. But that’s me.
 
Early on. I run Futaba gyros but don’t always use them. If I’m out running and I’m getting a little more crosswind than I feel comfortable with then I turn it on. But using a gyro from day one is a recipe for disaster, IMO. You’ll never really “learn” the car.

Probably .3 or .4 seconds. Otherwise you could retire waiting for your car to turn. 🤣 I think I’m at .2 or maybe even .1 delay with the ProModeler. Just enough to stop it from being snappy. I also run 100% expo and don’t turn down my DR. But that’s me.
Whoops, missed those decimal points!🤪
 
Setup, setup, setup. Toe and camber have to be right. Suspension has to be right. Everything has to be right. It’s a learning curve but you’ll get it. The lift test is a good indicator of what the car will do. Lift up the front with a driver or something in the middle. Both tires should come off the ground at the SAME time. If they don’t the car can be, “darty”. Get used to running without the gyro at first. Then you’ll get real feedback from the car. As far as overheating get a temp gun. That gearing isn’t meant for back to back passes. Do a pass and check the temp. You might be able to get a couple passes but check them after every pass to start with.
I only have about a football field length of good road to run it on, should I change gearing you think, any recommendations for pinion?
Do cooling fans really even help considering everything is under a tight fitting lexan body , I'm a mechanic and the thought of cooling inside that body doesn't seem that efficient without some sort of Ambient air ducting
Once winter is over I have some options for long stretch of road but the longer busy streets are always treated with ice melt
 
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I only have about a football field length of good road to run it on, should I change gearing you think, any recommendations for pinion?
Do cooling fans really even help considering everything is under a tight fitting lexan body , I'm a mechanic and the thought of cooling inside that body doesn't seem that efficient without some sort of Ambient air ducting
If you’re accelerating really hard in that short of space then maybe that’s why you’re losing control. Too many variables. Honestly, if you can’t find a longer road I’d gear it down and just use it for a street basher. That’s not even close to being long enough. I don’t run fans on speed run cars. I bring them with me and hook them up to a 3s battery in between runs to cool down quicker. They won’t keep the motor cool while speed running so why have the extra weight and wires.
 
I only have about a football field length of good road to run it on, should I change gearing you think, any recommendations for pinion?
Do cooling fans really even help considering everything is under a tight fitting lexan body , I'm a mechanic and the thought of cooling inside that body doesn't seem that efficient without some sort of Ambient air ducting
Honestly, that's just not very much room. Do you have a gear calculator/ do you have a ballpark idea of how fast you're geared for? I don't remember what setup (motor mount, internal diff gear ratio, tire size etc) but depending on your motor mount there is a minimum total tooth count you have to consider as well, so the gears will mesh correctly.
 
If you’re accelerating really hard in that short of space then maybe that’s why you’re losing control. Too many variables. Honestly, if you can’t find a longer road I’d gear it down and just use it for a street basher. That’s not even close to being long enough. I don’t run fans on speed run cars. I bring them with me and hook them up to a 3s battery in between runs to cool down quicker. They won’t keep the motor cool while speed running so why have the extra weight and wires.
I have pinions 21 to 31 I believe.. do you think I should put in like a 24 for what I'm using for... I pretty much built this from start to finish following raz 6 part you tube video... I did everything almost identical except I'm using mmx8s instead of xlx2
Honestly, that's just not very much room. Do you have a gear calculator/ do you have a ballpark idea of how fast you're geared for? I don't remember what setup (motor mount, internal diff gear ratio, tire size etc) but depending on your motor mount there is a minimum total tooth count you have to consider as well, so the gears will mesh correctly.
Right now it's geared for 111.2 per gear calculations
I have pinions 21 to 31 I believe.. do you think I should put in like a 24 for what I'm using for... I pretty much built this from start to finish following raz 6 part you tube video... I did everything almost identical except I'm using mmx8s instead of xlx2

Right now it's geared for 111.2 per gear calculations
Worst case I'll either put infraction diff back in it or order a bigger spur gear I guess
 
I have pinions 21 to 31 I believe.. do you think I should put in like a 24 for what I'm using for... I pretty much built this from start to finish following raz 6 part you tube video... I did everything almost identical except I'm using mmx8s instead of xlx2

Right now it's geared for 111.2 per gear calculations
Definitely gear down some. I can’t tell you how much since we live in two completely different environments. In that distance it’s possible to hit 100 or so I’d say. That’s just a guess. Gotta factor in the braking distance also.
 
I have pinions 21 to 31 I believe.. do you think I should put in like a 24 for what I'm using for... I pretty much built this from start to finish following raz 6 part you tube video... I did everything almost identical except I'm using mmx8s instead of xlx2

Right now it's geared for 111.2 per gear calculations

Worst case I'll either put infraction diff back in it or order a bigger spur gear I guess
I think if you're using the 25mm spacing on a pps mount the lowest ttc is 60 so 26t should work?
 
This is how it's set up

IMG_20230201_180811.jpg
 
Doesn’t really tell me anything. Also, get some GRP’s. You’ll have better traction than Hoons.
I have a set of grps already they are about the same, they mostly stick to my table 😂
I have a set of grps already they are about the same, they mostly stick to my table 😂
The 30 degree weather is probably my biggest enemy, I had a mk4 supra in my younger days and always liked the cold for engine performance but disliked the cold cause I never hooked up...
 
If you’re accelerating really hard in that short of space then maybe that’s why you’re losing control. Too many variables. Honestly, if you can’t find a longer road I’d gear it down and just use it for a street basher. That’s not even close to being long enough. I don’t run fans on speed run cars. I bring them with me and hook them up to a 3s battery in between runs to cool down quicker. They won’t keep the motor cool while speed running so why have the extra weight and wires.
I didn’t know that I was wondering why serious speed runner don’t have fans in their rigs now I know I’m building a speed run rig a newbie myself learning.
I was going to put 2 big server fans that everyone is using 40x40 ones I think
 
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