Fireteam First time changing diff fluid

Goofy

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Opened my center diff for the first time and wasn't sure if I should be concerned over the color/look of the stock fluid. It appears metallic, but doesn't feel gritty. Anything I should look over before tossing in new fluid?

PXL_20221217_011403645.jpg
 

GraniteFox

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I would not be concerned. Make sure you do not get fluid in the 4 screw holes. Use threadlock on metal to metal screws. Fill it to just over the crossbar. Looks like this one was filled pretty well from the factory.....not always the case. Good luck
 

Schlepprock250

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Looks good, at least it's up to the proper level compared to most factory setups. I would decide what weight diff fluid you would like to run, take the diffs apart, clean them and refill them.
In my Talion 6s, Typhon 6s v5 and Kraton 6s I run 20k/500k/60K.. F/C/R. You want a thicker diff oil in the center so you get better power distribution front to rear. You want a little lighter in the center for better steering under throttle.
 

Goofy

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I would not be concerned. Make sure you do not get fluid in the 4 screw holes. Use threadlock on metal to metal screws. Fill it to just over the crossbar. Looks like this one was filled pretty well from the factory.....not always the case. Good luck
Surprisingly, Arrma actually used some thread locker on the stock screws! :D
Looks good, at least it's up to the proper level compared to most factory setups. I would decide what weight diff fluid you would like to run, take the diffs apart, clean them and refill them.
In my Talion 6s, Typhon 6s v5 and Kraton 6s I run 20k/500k/60K.. F/C/R. You want a thicker diff oil in the center so you get better power distribution front to rear. You want a little lighter in the center for better steering under throttle.
I grabbed some 300k; curious if it strikes a good middle ground with stock F/R weights.
Just put it upside down and let it drain for 15 or 20 minutes. Then you can inspect, shim, and then fill. Color is pretty normal in my experience. Here’s a great video.
Had to let this sucker drain over night and still had some residual fluid in there! Gently warmed up the case to see if it'll help.

Appreciate the feedback all, glad nothing is out of the ordinary :)
 

GraniteFox

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300-500k is a good middle. I always go a little heavier in the front. Not sure it makes that much difference. It’s nice they give you the aluminum case in the center on the fireteam.
 

JustAnOutcast

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Opened my center diff for the first time and wasn't sure if I should be concerned over the color/look of the stock fluid. It appears metallic, but doesn't feel gritty. Anything I should look over before tossing in new fluid?

View attachment 263198
Have you run it yet or is this out of the box?
 

Schlepprock250

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You do heavier in the rear?
I could have that backwards lol.
But my Talion 6s EXB has limited slip diffs in all three locations. I don't think heavier/lighter front/rear will matter bashing. You just want a little heavier than 10k, if you were racing, a lighter oil in the front would help you power out of the curves (I believe I have that right). But for bashing, you just don't want a one tire fire.. One wheel peel situation. You want a heavier oil to split the power L/R.
 

Schlepprock250

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Surprisingly, Arrma actually used some thread locker on the stock screws! :D

I grabbed some 300k; curious if it strikes a good middle ground with stock F/R weights.

Had to let this sucker drain over night and still had some residual fluid in there! Gently warmed up the case to see if it'll help.

Appreciate the feedback all, glad nothing is out of the ordinary :)
Use blue lint free shop towels and wipe out the old fluids. You don't have to wait for it to drain.
While you're in there take out all the gears and shims and wipe them down and inspect them. Not only will you be sure they're correct.. You'll gain knowledge from taking them apart and putting them back together.
 
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I really like 60/500/30 I’ve never tried heavier rear vs lighter front.
+1

I find those oils above, are just about perfect for most of my 6s Off road rigs. Sometimes 300k center is also an option. The Fireteam come with 200k at center FWIW. While all the other OPEN diffs came with 100k at center. Except the Typhon TLRT. (is even thinner) Normal for the oil to darken as the Sat and Sun gears break-in/wear. When it turns to a sludge, its time to change it out, about every 15-20 runs, if nothing else fails before.
Best to not use the Arrma gear shims/washers.
Use Mugen Seiki # E0206. Enough shims/washers for all 3 Arrma "Open" diffs. Diffs will last way longer.
 

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+1

I find those oils above, are just about perfect for most of my 6s Off road rigs. Sometimes 300k center is also an option. The Fireteam come with 200k at center FWIW. While all the other OPEN diffs came with 100k at center. Except the Typhon TLRT. (is even thinner) Normal for the oil to darken as the Sat and Sun gears break-in/wear. When it turns to a sludge, its time to change it out, about every 15-20 runs, if nothing else fails before.
Best to not use the Arrma gear shims/washers.
Use Mugen Seiki # E0206. Enough shims/washers for all 3 Arrma "Open" diffs. Diffs will last way longer.
I’ve been out 3 times since I finished my FT I’m running 60/500/30 and it’s perfect for the weight of the vehicle. I can wheelie if I want to but it’s controllable. I’m going to try the Magen shims.

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3C600A01-8D6A-4986-BAE1-3E5D9473808C.jpeg
 

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Impressive FT there. Very neat. The best upgrades.:love:
Your rig there absolutely needs those Mugen Seiki diff shims. Otherwise you will become a slave to those "Open" diffs. All 6s rigs are this way.
 

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Impressive FT there. Very neat. The best upgrades.:love:
Your rig there absolutely needs those Mugen Seiki diff shims. Otherwise you will become a slave to those "Open" diffs. All 6s rigs are this way.
I’ve been building kraton diffs for 12 years. I rotate diffs on a schedule. 😂 I keep spares ready to roll.

B716319C-917D-4AD8-AE8A-06C41EC765F3.jpeg

I’ve been building kraton diffs for 12 years. I rotate diffs on a schedule. 😂 I keep spares ready to roll.

B716319C-917D-4AD8-AE8A-06C41EC765F3.jpeg
I run these gears.
 

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djrahbee

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I’ve been out 3 times since I finished my FT I’m running 60/500/30 and it’s perfect for the weight of the vehicle. I can wheelie if I want to but it’s controllable. I’m going to try the Magen shims.

View attachment 263642

View attachment 263643
Looks great man! Those tires look much better. I never liked how the stock ones looked.👍🏼
 
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