First time painting a body doesn't go well

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ScottfromWI

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My first body painting project is the Pro-Line 2020 Ram Rebel, and it hasn't gone very well. I used three coats of high gloss apple red Rust-Oleum paint for my base coat. And then the next day (about 12 hours) I used Rust-Oleum gloss black. As you can see the black paint checkered and bled thru the red. Two questions, one: what did I do wrong? and Two: is there any way to save the body? Anyone know of a product that will remove the paint without destroying the plastic body? Or should I remove the outer film and paint from the outside?

badpaint2.jpg

Thanks in advance for any responses!

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Two things:
  1. There is specific Lexan R/C paint for bodies like these; normal spray paint won't work. If you have a local hobby shop check what paint they have, or order online! Tamiya, Duratrax, and Pactra brands come to mind.
  2. Pay specific attention to the backing color required for whatever color you choose. Depending on the type of paint (solid color, pearlescent, etc.), the color you back it with (typically white or black) can actually significantly change the shade.
I would definitely try cleaning the body, just check that paint thinner doesn't do anything to Lexan. Good luck!
 
A lot of guys use brake fluid to remove paint. When u paint i use nitro fuel to remove over spray. Removing that much paint is gonna take a bit of time.

Gentlemen above all posted good info, we gotta use the proper paint.
 
NEVER USE ANY PAINT OTHER THAN LEXAN PAINT!! You will need to try and use some thinner to pull the paint off but it might muddy/fog the lexan but will be better than what you got. I learned the hard way too thought eh I can use some really good enamel paint it will be fine and nope first couple bashes half the paint cracked and flaked off. I made the best of it and repainted it to look like it was rusted with lexan paints over what was left of the enamel but still worry what enamel is left is going to eventually chip off as well. Here's what the body looked like after a few bashes, notice all the chipping/missing paint, and after I "fixed" it with good lexan paint
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NEVER USE ANY PAINT OTHER THAN LEXAN PAINT!! You will need to try and use some thinner to pull the paint off but it might muddy/fog the lexan but will be better than what you got. I learned the hard way too thought eh I can use some really good enamel paint it will be fine and nope first couple bashes half the paint cracked and flaked off. I made the best of it and repainted it to look like it was rusted with lexan paints over what was left of the enamel but still worry what enamel is left is going to eventually chip off as well. Here's what the body looked like after a few bashes, notice all the chipping/missing paint, and after I "fixed" it with good lexan paintView attachment 131459View attachment 131460
I love the way yours turned out. I've been thinking of trying to go for a old rusted out or mad max look. Can I ask what product you used to get the rust look? I figure I'll start by removing any loose paint, and then try to add a rusty/dirty/dusty look. But I haven't been able to find a plastic/lexan paint for that effect. Thanks for the help. Hopefully I'll end up with something unique.
 
I love the way yours turned out. I've been thinking of trying to go for a old rusted out or mad max look. Can I ask what product you used to get the rust look? I figure I'll start by removing any loose paint, and then try to add a rusty/dirty/dusty look. But I haven't been able to find a plastic/lexan paint for that effect. Thanks for the help. Hopefully I'll end up with something unique.
So I used Spaz Stix lexan paint, for the rusted look/color I used a mix of candy orange and some gold backed with a brown. Was tricky and I'd of liked it more brown in color but looks better than flaked blue and black and clear all over lol. I started with the candy orange as it's really light/clear for a few light coats then did some light gold coats and then backed it with brown 🤷 was kinda an experiment but came out ok. I'd look as Spaz Stix has a lot of colors they might have a rusty brown or copper color and mix the two like I did. I'd go light with copper first then the brown and a black backer I think would work good maybe🤔
 
FWIW, I posted this in another thread on how to successfully removed paint from a lexan/polycarbonate body without damaging the body (even when proper lexan paints have been used): https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/body-shell-paint-removel-didnt-go-well.38582/

GENTLEMEN!! Welcome to Paint Club. The first rule of Paint Club is: You do not talk about Paint Club. The second rule....Ok, ok, I think you get it ;-)

The company Carson has a product called Paint Killer. Tamiya makes a similar product (I have personal experience with the former but not the latter) and I'm fairly certain there are probably a few other out there if you search for them. I originally bought one of the silver V2 Infractions. A friend of mine bought the same one so I wanted mine to look different, if for no other reason than to avoid confusion while hooning around and suddenly realizing that I have my eye on the wrong car followed by watching mine plow face first into a curb, car or child. So I removed the majority of the silver paint, leaving the silver on the splitter, wheel wells, side runners and tail gate. I then gave it a black paint job, the result of which you can see in the pics below. This paint stripper is made specifically for lexan/polycarbonate and won't make it brittle as seen with the acetone and actually, doesn't mar the surface at all. It's not perfect, but that's more attributable to the fact that I ran out of stripper. You CAN get the paint all the way off but hats off to Arrma's painting process as it is on there like white on rice (or like sauer on kraut in my case). If you plan on doing this with a body of this size, plan on using at least two spray cans or bottles of the stuff.

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Happy stripping!!
 
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