Limitless First time speed build.

[LegacyIV]

nobody has answered my question. Is what i did with the wires ok?

 

[LegacyIV]

That's a very nice build. If you plug somthing in "wrong" you will know immediately. I vaporized a 8mm bullet myself. There is no delay just instant bright light if you do any speed over 100 I wouldn't use hoons. I understand that those are probably there just for the bench.

Yes I have some foams. thank you

 

[dure16]

My question is, just because its colored as positive or negative does that mean that cord is now forever that. Or once it's been cut its just wiring with no distinction of being positive or negative regardless of what color it is.

And if this was just a onetime weird occurrence, is it safe to try to connect it again or just resolder a new qs8 plug on it.

If you’re asking whether a wire’s physical make up is dedicated as positive or negative, then the answer is no. Both wires are identical under the silicone insulation.

Sparks are normal when connecting high-power setups. You’ll have to get used to it. You shouldn’t need a new plug.

 

[LegacyIV]

So I decided to try and charge the battery since I never got a chance to I just been letting it sit since it sparked. Was worried the battery was fried so I didn't want it to start a fire on the charger. I took @Killacam advice and felt comfortable enough to charge it and it fully charged.

But again another big spark

So I decided to redo the soldering because I thought maybe this is the cause and as you can see it looked pretty bad

The negative is the one that's sparking but it looked fine so I redid the positive soldering because it looked weird

You are saying the sparks are normal but there's a pretty deep chunk missing from the plug and to go through that every time I plug it one doesn't seem normal. And I don't see other people plugging their batteries in and seeing sparks fly out. I thought that was one of the benefits of qs8 plugs. antispark

If you’re asking whether a wire’s physical make up is dedicated as positive or negative, then the answer is no. Both wires are identical under the silicone insulation.

Sparks are normal when connecting high-power setups. You’ll have to get used to it. You shouldn’t need a new plug.

I wanna trust you because I know I know noting compared to almost all of you. But these sparks are loud and big coming out. And it's left a scar bot times on the plugs. Eventually the plug is gonna be all burned up. That can't be normal

 

[dk10438]

what sequence did you plug the bullets in? The antispark resistor is in the red part of the plug so red should be connected last otherwise you will get the spark.

 

[joshludden]

So I decided to try and charge the battery since I never got a chance to I just been letting it sit since it sparked. Was worried the battery was fried so I didn't want it to start a fire on the charger. I took @Killacam advice and felt comfortable enough to charge it and it fully charged.

But again another big spark
View attachment 284071View attachment 284072


So I decided to redo the soldering because I thought maybe this is the cause and as you can see it looked pretty bad
View attachment 284073

The negative is the one that's sparking but it looked fine so I redid the positive soldering because it looked weird

View attachment 284074

You are saying the sparks are normal but there's a pretty deep chunk missing from the plug and to go through that every time I plug it one doesn't seem normal. And I don't see other people plugging their batteries in and seeing sparks fly out. I thought that was one of the benefits of qs8 plugs. antispark

I wanna trust you because I know I know noting compared to almost all of you. But these sparks are loud and big coming out. And it's left a scar bot times on the plugs. Eventually the plug is gonna be all burned up. That can't be normal

I wouldn't trust ANY of those solder joints

 

[LegacyIV]

what sequence did you plug the bullets in? The antispark resistor is in the red part of the plug so red should be connected last otherwise you will get the spark.

I plugged the black one in last. Maybe that is the problem. I will try it but this time im gonna be a bit more patient and see what others think before i attempt it. Thank you

 

[LibertyMKiii]

So I decided to try and charge the battery since I never got a chance to I just been letting it sit since it sparked. Was worried the battery was fried so I didn't want it to start a fire on the charger. I took @Killacam advice and felt comfortable enough to charge it and it fully charged.

But again another big spark
View attachment 284071View attachment 284072


So I decided to redo the soldering because I thought maybe this is the cause and as you can see it looked pretty bad
View attachment 284073

The negative is the one that's sparking but it looked fine so I redid the positive soldering because it looked weird

View attachment 284074

You are saying the sparks are normal but there's a pretty deep chunk missing from the plug and to go through that every time I plug it one doesn't seem normal. And I don't see other people plugging their batteries in and seeing sparks fly out. I thought that was one of the benefits of qs8 plugs. antispark

I wanna trust you because I know I know noting compared to almost all of you. But these sparks are loud and big coming out. And it's left a scar bot times on the plugs. Eventually the plug is gonna be all burned up. That can't be normal

The Anti-Spark connectors work best with the original connectors. It could continue with regular 8mm bullets, but hopefully the above comment of doing red last helps.

Connecting anything 6s or 8s will letout a big electric arc. This arc is powerful enough to chip away at the gold plated connector. Now it shoudl be a single loud pop and be done. If it continues then you have something reversed and that is bad.

As mentioned your solder joints look pretty "cold" as the terms go. You may want to see about getting some help with them and watch some how to videos on it. It should looks slick and shinney not custy and rough. You also want to fill that cup with solder. I always plug in an apposing connector to help hold the bullet inside the plastic housing from moving incase the heat makes it want to melt and get misalligned inside the connector.

I highly recommend for your experience level that you purchase a series connector:
https://www.islandhobbynut.com/product-page/ose-8-0mm-antispark-series-y-harness

 

[LegacyIV]

The Anti-Spark connectors work best with the original connectors. It could continue with regular 8mm bullets, but hopefully the above comment of doing red last helps.

Connecting anything 6s or 8s will letout a big electric arc. This arc is powerful enough to chip away at the gold plated connector. Now it shoudl be a single loud pop and be done. If it continues then you have something reversed and that is bad.

As mentioned your solder joints look pretty "cold" as the terms go. You may want to see about getting some help with them and watch some how to videos on it. It should looks slick and shinney not custy and rough. You also want to fill that cup with solder. I always plug in an apposing connector to help hold the bullet inside the plastic housing from moving incase the heat makes it want to melt and get misalligned inside the connector.

View attachment 284078

I highly recommend for your experience level that you purchase a series connector:
https://www.islandhobbynut.com/product-page/ose-8-0mm-antispark-series-y-harness

View attachment 284077

Ok I will plug the red last next time I attempt it. If it continues I will then work on my soldering skills and redo them. Would like to point out this only happens when trying to go 8s. And the one time I did connect 8s with no spark I wasn't paying attention to the order I plugged them in. But I think the order matters because when you change the battery on a car you need to connect positive and negative in a certain order as well.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Ok I will plug the red last next time I attempt it. If it continues I will then work on my soldering skills and redo them. Would like to point out this only happens when trying to go 8s. And the one time I did connect 8s with no spark I wasn't paying attention to the order I plugged them in. But I think the order matters because when you change the battery on a car you need to connect positive and negative in a certain order as well.

It is very normal to see this most on 8s and not so much on lower voltages. 6s lets out a tiny pop in comparison. Running 4s it is almost nonexistent unless you listen very very close.

I just wanted to point out that cold solder joints will have a negative impact on this setup regardless of the spark situation.
Cold solder joints have high resistance.
As you are running and pulling 300+ amps that high resistance point will build up heat and has a potential for the solder joint to come undone. This could also lead to high ripple voltage that can hurt the ESC.

 

[Tirefryer426]

Welcome to the crazy club! I didn't read all the replies, just the first page. This is my dual 1721 GT build. Also my first speed run car.
You can fit the CNHL 9500's in there if you *REALLLLLLY* try. This is a rough fit, so don't judge too harshly. I'll be having a new steering bellcrank made to give me a little extra clearance, then I can slide the battery up and under there to match the top side. Then I'll install some dividers so if the batteries move they don't make direct contact on a gear.

 

[LegacyIV]

It is very normal to see this most on 8s and not so much on lower voltages. 6s lets out a tiny pop in comparison. Running 4s it is almost nonexistent unless you listen very very close.

I just wanted to point out that cold solder joints will have a negative impact on this setup regardless of the spark situation.
Cold solder joints have high resistance.
As you are running and pulling 300+ amps that high resistance point will build up heat and has a potential for the solder joint to come undone. This could also lead to high ripple voltage that can hurt the ESC.

I actually wanted to address resistance next. I looked up what's normal and anything below 15 is what a newer battery should read. 3 of my batteries read 25 resistance on my charger and the 4th one was 95 yesterday and 75 today. they are all brand new batteries only been used for past 3 days and first charge yesterday. they have been sitting for past month in non humid area.

It is very normal to see this most on 8s and not so much on lower voltages. 6s lets out a tiny pop in comparison. Running 4s it is almost nonexistent unless you listen very very close.

I just wanted to point out that cold solder joints will have a negative impact on this setup regardless of the spark situation.
Cold solder joints have high resistance.
As you are running and pulling 300+ amps that high resistance point will build up heat and has a potential for the solder joint to come undone. This could also lead to high ripple voltage that can hurt the ESC.

Oof ok. I will fill them up

Welcome to the crazy club! I didn't read all the replies, just the first page. This is my dual 1721 GT build. Also my first speed run car.
You can fit the CNHL 9500's in there if you *REALLLLLLY* try. This is a rough fit, so don't judge too harshly. I'll be having a new steering bellcrank made to give me a little extra clearance, then I can slide the battery up and under there to match the top side. Then I'll install some dividers so if the batteries move they don't make direct contact on a gear.



View attachment 284087

Nice I originally ordered your batteries but found out they wouldn't fit with my BittyDesign Seven65 body. And I needed up finding out the G+ are better. Are those GRP's?

 

[LibertyMKiii]

I actually wanted to address resistance next. I looked up what's normal and anything below 15 is what a newer battery should read. 3 of my batteries read 25 resistance on my charger and the 4th one was 95 yesterday and 75 today. they are all brand new batteries only been used for past 3 days and first charge yesterday. they have been sitting for past month in non humid area. View attachment 284082

Oof ok. I will fill them up

View attachment 284080

Wow the milliohm values should not be that high. That is concerning!
Do they charge and balance the cells correctly or take over 1 hr to charge?

Temps can impact resistance but good lipos would be in the range of 1-20 milli Ohms.

 

[LegacyIV]

Wow the milliohm values should not be that high. That is concerning!
Do they charge and balance the cells correctly or take over 1 hr to charge?

Temps can impact resistance but good lipos would be in the range of 1-20 milli Ohms.

When I balanced charged them everything charged evenly and took about an hour. Once each cell got to about 4.17-4.20 it kinda just stayed there and moved to 4.19-4.20 so I just stopped the charging. I also noticed the charger lowers the charge rate the closer it gets to full. I don't know if the charger I have does this but when the batteries were at 4.19-4.20 I expected and beeping sound and for it to stop automatically... waited another 20 min and they were still at 4.19-4.20.

 

[ArrmaFreek2022]

Raz offers alot of good setup tips, but I don't agree with his wiring of LiPos. There are some minor benefits of shortening your wires, but James ran 200+ with very long wires in a more standard configuration. I don't think the risks and complications of Raz's wiring setup is worth it.

Nooooo Liberty, lets do everything the way RAZ does it, then we will get the same exact results. Why should we experiment ourselves and offer whatever newfound knowledge we discover along the way? Lets just sent it at 12freeeeakingS LMAO> This thread is fantastic can't wait to see how it ends.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

When I balanced charged them everything charged evenly and took about an hour. Once each cell got to about 4.17-4.20 it kinda just stayed there and moved to 4.19-4.20 so I just stopped the charging. I also noticed the charger lowers the charge rate the closer it gets to full. I don't know if the charger I have does this but when the batteries were at 4.19-4.20 I expected and beeping sound and for it to stop automatically... waited another 20 min and they were still at 4.19-4.20.

The chargers run at your peak power setting and then lower the power input for the last part so that it does not "overshoot" the target voltage.
It begins inputting the power through the balance plug to evenly put in the final hundredths of a volt. Taking beyond 1.5 hrs is usually another sign of an unhealthy battery internal resistance.

 

[chris adams]

0

The chargers run at your peak power setting and then lower the power input for the last part so that it does not "overshoot" the target voltage.
It begins inputting the power through the balance plug to evenly put in the final hundredths of a volt. Taking beyond 1.5 hrs is usually another sign of an unhealthy battery internal resistance.

He used the wire from his charger leads to make the series connection. Could the now shortened and presumably cold soldered charge leads cause a high IR reading? Seem like it could, but I'm not very knowledgeable on this YET.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

0

He used the wire from his charger leads to make the series connection. Could the now shortened and presumably cold soldered charge leads cause a high IR reading? Seem like it could, but I'm not very knowledgeable on this YET.

I believe it pulls the IR readings through the balance plug or at least it should....
If it does pull from the main lead that certainly could be the cause.

 

[Dan B.]

The chargers run at your peak power setting and then lower the power input for the last part so that it does not "overshoot" the target voltage.
It begins inputting the power through the balance plug to evenly put in the final hundredths of a volt. Taking beyond 1.5 hrs is usually another sign of an unhealthy battery internal resistance.

Yes, this.
It’s my understanding that when the charging cycle slows near the end it has moved off the main leads for “bulk” charging (at several amps, chargers vary, and the C-rating you’re charging at) and switches to the balance port at that point to slowly and properly (much lower amps, about 1) balance each cell. If you stop this process your batteries could ostensibly be unbalanced, especially as interrupted charge cycles progressed over time.
Or, I could be more full of sh’t than a Christmas turkey.

 

[LegacyIV]

Yes, this.
It’s my understanding that when the charging cycle slows near the end it has moved off the main leads for “bulk” charging (at several amps, chargers vary, and the C-rating you’re charging at) and switches to the balance port at that point to slowly and properly (much lower amps, about 1) balance each cell. If you stop this process your batteries could ostensibly be unbalanced, especially as interrupted charge cycles progressed over time.
Or, I could be more full of sh’t than a Christmas turkey.

Ok next time i will let it do its thing. But it took an hour to get to 4.17-4.20 and the batters werent dead they were at 3.60. And then when it got to 4.17-4.20 i waited like another 30 minutes for only 3 of the cells to get to 4.20. So hour and a half for a battery thats was a little more than half charged. Charge rate was at 6a. Which is 1c.