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I don't think you're going to be able to measure the resistance of a single connector with most MM as the resistance probably won't be more than a few mΩ. In a pinch, it might be possible to measure the resistance with a regulated vape mod. Those can measure resistance down to 50 or maybe 30mΩ. I'm gonna give that a try right quick to see if it'll register.
I’m really interested to see the results. I’m expecting little or no difference. Not enough, at least for me, to justify the hassle and associated risks of naked bullets. What could the “real world” difference be?
Thank you for doing this!
Wow, I just googled “regulated vape mod” and it’s making me wonder what @Diem Turner is up to over there in Wienerslider. 😂
Seriously though, I’ve never heard of that piece of equipment, what is it exactly? My search results only yielded variations of a specific bit of kit used in a particular method of extracting random variations of tetrahydrocannabinols…
Not that there’s anything wrong with that.
 
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That’s good. Have you tried to power it up since? I’d just put a small battery on it to see if it’s ok.
I know others here don’t agree, but from where I sit screw bullet connectors. Just go QS8’s. It’s basically idiot proof at that point, and I think we’ve all had days where we need that. I’m not at all convinced about the “added resistance in the harness argument” either. The way I see it, they’re still 8mm bullets, right? They’re just protected from shorting, protected from big-time sparking, and protected from reversing polarity, things that a naked bullet isn’t. I have a single QS8 on my XLX2 and then I connect either a series connector (as others have recommended), a parallel connector, or just run a single battery. All are options at that point.
Your life just got a whole lot simpler and a whole lot safer, and every connection is still made with an 8mm bullet.
https://www.radiocontrolpower.com/product-page/qs8-anti-spark-series-harness
https://www.radiocontrolpower.com/product-page/qs8-parallel-harness

These guys have them pre-made and they’re awesome.
That’s good. Have you tried to power it up since? I’d just put a small battery on it to see if it’s ok.
I know others here don’t agree, but from where I sit screw bullet connectors. Just go QS8’s. It’s basically idiot proof at that point, and I think we’ve all had days where we need that. I’m not at all convinced about the “added resistance in the harness argument” either. The way I see it, they’re still 8mm bullets, right? They’re just protected from shorting, protected from big-time sparking, and protected from reversing polarity, things that a naked bullet isn’t. I have a single QS8 on my XLX2 and then I connect either a series connector (as others have recommended), a parallel connector, or just run a single battery. All are options at that point.
Your life just got a whole lot simpler and a whole lot safer, and every connection is still made with an 8mm bullet.
https://www.radiocontrolpower.com/product-page/qs8-anti-spark-series-harness
https://www.radiocontrolpower.com/product-page/qs8-parallel-harness

These guys have them pre-made and they’re awesome.
Just got off work. She started up fine on the bench. Steering doesn't look smooth but i did recalibrate my remote to my esc’s and didnt zero out my steering trim (may be the cause)… the original reason for the recalibration though was I didnt and still don't fully understand setting my throttle trim to B100 before calibration. My throttle is muuuuch smoother now since doing it though. Watched as much videos as i could nobody goes in depth on why it should be at B100.
 
Please enlighten me. What is the difference in a QS8 connection (8mm bullets, shielded) and naked 8mm bullets? I’m just not buying it.
Sure, if you were trying to push that many amps through a IC5/EC5 or an XT90, then yes I would of course agree. But I do not agree that a QS8 has more resistance than an 8mm bullet. Who has an ohm meter handy?

I think you misunderstood what I was saying. I'm not saying that QS8 is any more or less resistance than 8mm bullets. They are probably about the same.

We can measure the QS8 and 8mm mated pair, in fact show the QS8 in the picture in a previous post. However, the resolution of most Ohm meters is like .1Ω. To get an accurate reading you need a miliohm meter and pristine setup. That is not only outside my price range at the moment, I don't really care that much about miliohms.

What I was agreeing with is putting extra connectors, using thin and/or long wires in your path will certainly add resistance and add up the Watts lost. That's just physics.

Even though the math says you can get a few extra Watts by using bigger/less wire and less connectors, the reality is it's only 3-4W. And that isn't going to make a difference when you're burning 11K Watts, at least not for me. Even at 15W loss it doesn't matter. So I gave up that chase.
 
I’m really interested to see the results. I’m expecting little or no difference. Not enough, at least for me, to justify the hassle and associated risks of naked bullets. What could the “real world” difference be?
Thank you for doing this!
Wow, I just googled “regulated vape mod” and it’s making me wonder what @Diem Turner is up to over there in Wienerslider. 😂
Seriously though, I’ve never heard of that piece of equipment, what is it exactly? My search results only yielded variations of a specific bit of kit used in a particular method of extracting random variations of tetrahydrocannabinols…
Not that there’s anything wrong with that.
That was actually a success. It took me a minute to get it rigged up, but I ran a comparison between a Castle 8mm bullet (left) and an extracted bullet from a QS8 connector (right). The Castle bullet came in at ~220mΩ and the QS8 bullet at ~290mΩ which, at this resolution, is an irrelevant difference and can be considered, near as makes no difference, identical.
1678586910022.jpeg
 
That was actually a success. It took me a minute to get it rigged up, but I ran a comparison between a Castle 8mm bullet (left) and an extracted bullet from a QS8 connector (right). The Castle bullet came in at ~220mΩ and the QS8 bullet at ~290mΩ which, at this resolution, is an irrelevant difference and can be considered, near as makes no difference, identical.
View attachment 284741
Wow, that’s great. Thanks again for doing this. I’m not sure how you measured it, but that must be one precise piece of equipment!
 
Great build!

I know what you mean. Every time I mess with the wiring I triple check everything, it's easy to get messed up. And ALWAY make sure your QS8s are fully inserted.

You shouldn't see a spark using both sides QS8 connectors, they are anti-spark. However, if you are using bullets and QS8 you can see a spark if you connect them in the wrong order.

There are 4 terminals in the QS8 connector pair. Only the female positive terminal of the QS8 pair is anti spark. This is marked on the connector.
View attachment 284381
So if you are using male bullets with the female QS8 and you connect the positive terminal last you shouldn't see any spark. If you connect the negative last you may see a spark.

The way this works is there are actually three contacts in the female connector. The Negative side is just a passive connection with little to no resistance (.1 or .2 Ωs). The positive side has two contacts. A smaller outside contact that has a series 5.1Ω resistor and the inner one with no resistor.
View attachment 284380

In these two pictures, the first one is partially inserted and the second is fully inserted.
View attachment 284384View attachment 284383

When you insert the connector the smaller resistive path makes contact first. The current goes through the resistive load and suppresses the spark. This is where you need to be careful, because the car will power up and act normal, until you smoke a connector.

Then when completely inserted the inner ring (no resistance path) and will carry the current. When fully inserted the 5.1Ω resistor has 0A and carry no current.
That’s a very informative and concise bit of information. I’ve never really paid that much attention to exactly how a QS8 works. I knew they had the resistor of course, but I never realized it actually had two sections on the positive female bullet. I’ve never really looked that closely.
I think you misunderstood what I was saying. I'm not saying that QS8 is any more or less resistance than 8mm bullets. They are probably about the same.

We can measure the QS8 and 8mm mated pair, in fact show the QS8 in the picture in a previous post. However, the resolution of most Ohm meters is like .1Ω. To get an accurate reading you need a miliohm meter and pristine setup. That is not only outside my price range at the moment, I don't really care that much about miliohms.

What I was agreeing with is putting extra connectors, using thin and/or long wires in your path will certainly add resistance and add up the Watts lost. That's just physics.

Even though the math says you can get a few extra Watts by using bigger/less wire and less connectors, the reality is it's only 3-4W. And that isn't going to make a difference when you're burning 11K Watts, at least not for me. Even at 15W loss it doesn't matter. So I gave up that chase.
I actually did misunderstand what you were saying. I was only disputing that 8mm bullets had more benefit/less resistance than QS8’s. I totally understand and agree with all points you made and you’re right, it’s just physics. If the results would not have been totally negligible I might have considered a switch, but I’m glad they’re largely the same. As careful as I would try to be with plain old bullets, everyone has a bad day sometimes and I could potentially do something really stupid due to inattention, poor eyesight, not enough sleep, etc. I appreciate the safety net that QS8’s bring to the table.
 
Ok so i took it out for a spin on 8s... damn. Couldn't hit full throttle couldn't even hit half throttle without the car getting out of control. Tried to ease into it but its clearing so much distance so fast its ridiculous. Have to readjust the whole car because the car feels completely off guessing due to the added weight of the batteries, I guess. I can see sparks flying out the back from the diffuser because of the squat (height is up all the way and I have aftermarket stiffer springs in front and back) and now the front splitter is scraping on the ground when coming to a stop and when coasting due to bumps because it's too low. Motor was a little warm too, I think I have to gear down because I barely would call that driving the car, i was really just driving it up and down the block for 5 min to see what it would do and there's some warmth versus when I was on 4s I was doing full throttle runs and ripping it around for about 15 minutes no warmth at all.

Without a doubt dual motor is the way to go if you want that thrill, everyone should do it. Very wild car I got what I was looking for.
 
Ok so i took it out for a spin on 8s... damn. Couldn't hit full throttle couldn't even hit half throttle without the car getting out of control. Tried to ease into it but its clearing so much distance so fast its ridiculous. Have to readjust the whole car because the car feels completely off guessing due to the added weight of the batteries, I guess. I can see sparks flying out the back from the diffuser because of the squat (height is up all the way and I have aftermarket stiffer springs in front and back) and now the front splitter is scraping on the ground when coming to a stop and when coasting due to bumps because it's too low. Motor was a little warm too, I think I have to gear down because I barely would call that driving the car, i was really just driving it up and down the block for 5 min to see what it would do and there's some warmth versus when I was on 4s I was doing full throttle runs and ripping it around for about 15 minutes no warmth at all.

Without a doubt dual motor is the way to go if you want that thrill, everyone should do it. Very wild car I got what I was looking for.
You‘ll definitely want to install shock limiters. Run it at 2s or 3s to get your chassis set up properly, then go back up to 6 or 8.
 
Also im having throttle issues. It's just very abrupt when first taking off. I tried to follow server to esc instructions (Raz) I think the throttle trim part that has me at a loss. why does he set his throttle trim to b100 my Radio link RC6GS V3 doesn't even go to b100 . Any help with throttle trim? Main problem is the car rolling off a little smoother starting from a full stop. I understand it's a dual motor build so its a racecar, it's not going to be that smooth like a normal car but it doesn't seem normal like the other dual motor builds.
 
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Also im having throttle issues I think it's just very abrupt when first taking off. I tried to follow server to esc instruction (Raz) I think the throttle trim part that has me at a loss. why does he set his throttle trim to b100 mine doesn't even go to b100. my Radio link RC6GS V3 any help with throttle trim or just the car rolling of a little smoother. I understand it's a dual motor build so its racecar it's not going to be that smooth like a normal car.
Are you using Raz’s perfect pass?
 
Then I would recommend researching what that is. It may be your problem.

You want less punch (aka more punch control). It's an ESC setting.
His timing might be too high as well if he’s generating that much motor heat in 5 minutes.
 
@LegacyIV use the castle link to turn punch control to 100% and set motor timing at 0.
You can add timing later if nessasary but I doubt you'll need to at all. You can also play with the throttle curve to numb down the eay part of the trigger pull but it'll cause mid trigger pull to be more aggressive. Perfect Pass should help with that though.
**Early part of trigger pull
 
Sounds like you've got a Futaba. If that's the case check your Acceleration setting. If it's at 100 you can dial that down to smooth out your takeoffs and overall vehicle control. If the car is hard to manage you can either leave Acceleration at 100 on the controller and adjust the Punch on the ESC or leave the Punch up and adjust the Acceleration. I had the same issue with my Senton 8S where when I first drove the car it was wild...I wound up breaking the pins on my front diff and cracking the sun gear. I turned the Acceleration down and I've been slowly dialing back up as I get a better feel for the car's power. I like to leave the Punch up cause that helps with racing. You can do what @chris adams said too and make your Throttle Curve negative so the power sort of eases in the further you pull the trigger. If you've got a Futaba you can go to Throttle Speed and stage your takeoffs. The Futaba has a 2 step and 3 step Throttle Speed setting so you can adjust at what points in the trigger pull you wan the power to come in at.

Here's some vids: (the videos mention drag but you can use the info to make the car more controllable)

 
Sounds like you've got a Futaba. If that's the case check your Acceleration setting. If it's at 100 you can dial that down to smooth out your takeoffs and overall vehicle control. If the car is hard to manage you can either leave Acceleration at 100 on the controller and adjust the Punch on the ESC or leave the Punch up and adjust the Acceleration. I had the same issue with my Senton 8S where when I first drove the car it was wild...I wound up breaking the pins on my front diff and cracking the sun gear. I turned the Acceleration down and I've been slowly dialing back up as I get a better feel for the car's power. I like to leave the Punch up cause that helps with racing. You can do what @chris adams said too and make your Throttle Curve negative so the power sort of eases in the further you pull the trigger. If you've got a Futaba you can go to Throttle Speed and stage your takeoffs. The Futaba has a 2 step and 3 step Throttle Speed setting so you can adjust at what points in the trigger pull you wan the power to come in at.

Here's some vids: (the videos mention drag but you can use the info to make the car more controllable)

I thought he had a RadioLink? If so, maybe he thinks the Raz settings for his Futaba translate to his RadioLink, which is not the case. Maybe why he kept saying he didn’t have a b100 setting for his throttle trim.
 
Sounds like you've got a Futaba. If that's the case check your Acceleration setting. If it's at 100 you can dial that down to smooth out your takeoffs and overall vehicle control. If the car is hard to manage you can either leave Acceleration at 100 on the controller and adjust the Punch on the ESC or leave the Punch up and adjust the Acceleration. I had the same issue with my Senton 8S where when I first drove the car it was wild...I wound up breaking the pins on my front diff and cracking the sun gear. I turned the Acceleration down and I've been slowly dialing back up as I get a better feel for the car's power. I like to leave the Punch up cause that helps with racing. You can do what @chris adams said too and make your Throttle Curve negative so the power sort of eases in the further you pull the trigger. If you've got a Futaba you can go to Throttle Speed and stage your takeoffs. The Futaba has a 2 step and 3 step Throttle Speed setting so you can adjust at what points in the trigger pull you wan the power to come in at.

Here's some vids: (the videos mention drag but you can use the info to make the car more controllable)

FWIW, he's using Perfect Pass launch control so I don't think that adding an additional delay is particularly useful. Not trying to poo poo your suggestion as it would make perfect sense if he wasn't using PP.
 
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