Kraton Fix for sloppy bell crank on all 3 and 4s cars

[Stevenj76]

I've got the HR bell crank installed on my OC4s and there is definitely STILL a small amount of upwards movement at the link on the bell crank where it has a steel collar going through it. I wonder if those shims would work on the HR bell crank too? Im going to order and find out. x

When you shim the hub bearings behind the wheel hex, are you using the same size shims as the steering slop? Shumaker 5x7x04?

It was a triple pack of shims I bought of three variating thicknesses I think I got 10 of each and pretty sure they were kyosho too . What ever size the front bearing internal diameter is that’s the size you buy , I think typhons are 6mm so you would buy 6x8 shims . I do mine with the shaft through the hun and the wheel off and Add it then and tighten the wheel nut on on my kraton and the typhon I do it the same but shim until I can push the hex pin in without any real pressure so as not to squeeze the bearings

 

[GRC]

Update: I think shimming the tower housing increases the chance of cracking the chassis. By losing that slop, more impact energy is sent into the chassis. I cracked one around the tower housing post, then I noticed a small crack in the same place in the replacement chassis. Both cracks were definitely from bad nose landings, but I've had months of nose landings and never cracked a chassis. These two cracks happened shortly after shimming the tower housings. I removed the tower housing shims and so far the small crack has not gotten any worse.

Good news is I've kept the shims in the steering assembly and they seem to make most of the difference in the improved steering.

I'm going to retract this. I think the crack in the chassis is from the battery slamming into the front of the battery tray. It bends the front of the battery tray and causes it to crack the chassis.

 

[GRC]

PhillyB_RC made an excellent video on this