Felony For the people thinking of running xm7 grps on felony front

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Surchaufeur

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So i decided to experiment and get some xm7 grps for the front because they are cheaper than the normal hoons. My front hoons wear a lot faster than the rear in my case so for cost saving measure i decided to try this. Compared to the s7 the old style tires. These feel a lot stickier. The s7 when i had them befor ei returned them for these they felt like rocks. Maybe they were rotting oway or something. My rear felony tires still have some meat left so i decided to give it a shot. The car like to oversteer and spin out on itself when using the handbrake. Im going to report on this more when i have another opportunity to test it. It was 10 celcius when i first tried it out. But for now i would say don't do it stay with silver hoons. My felony is a corvette c8 with talion hubs so its wider than a stock felony in the rear. Its kind of the price to pay with the beast i have. Wish i bought more hoons set when they were in sale a few days ago.
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So this is all a learning experience and im still learning. I decided to inform myself a bit more about droop. From what i understood. More droop in the rear give more foward traction. More droop in the front gives more traction in the rear. My droop was a little bit off in the rear. Might explain why one side has more wear than the other. Decided to limit my front droop.

That in consequances would give me less rear traction in the rear but allow me to run the front a bit more stiffer without raising the ride height in the front. I still felt i had way too much steering with front silver hoons. The grps made it even more clear with old rear hoons. I remeber the first time i crashed was my first ever attemps to drift. I was running 1000cst front shock fluid instead of the 2000cst. Came to turn rear gave up and i went spiraling out of control into the curb. Since i went back up to 2k in the front i have a bit less grip in the front when turning off power. I might try to go up to 3k in the front.
 
Did more experimenting and it wont work unless you turn the rear diff nd do a bunch of changes im not willing to. Ima buy more hoons if they ever come back on sale. The car spins out at the slightest of steering input or turning while braking. The xm7 feel like gold hoons they stick to ur fingers when you hold it. When i had the S7 it felt like a rock
 
I bet your control issues and uneven tire wear would be helped by tuning your shocks, springs, and diffs a little bit more. You should run a softer spring/shock in the rear to help with weight transfer. This is evident in your braking behavior. You could also soften the front at the same time. Stiffening the front will plant the tires under braking, but you will be prone to front washout/understeer. My next thought is, which is dragging, the rear or the front? your mix-up of tires may not jive with the gearing on the Felony. I also think you are going too large in steps with your shock oil changes. Keep the step to 250 cSt at a time. 1000 is so big of a jump you won't know what is doing what. Personally, I would be changing springs instead. You need to tune weight transfer, so do it with preload or spring swaps. It'll cost less and is easier to do in the field. Last is the diff. On-road requires way less diff action than loose off-road driving. Up front on a Felony, I'd be thinking 10k cSt, maybe even 5k, because you have got to be dragging those front tires somewhere. Probably from the front or center diff being too stiff...
 
I bet your control issues and uneven tire wear would be helped by tuning your shocks, springs, and diffs a little bit more. You should run a softer spring/shock in the rear to help with weight transfer. This is evident in your braking behavior. You could also soften the front at the same time. Stiffening the front will plant the tires under braking, but you will be prone to front washout/understeer. My next thought is, which is dragging, the rear or the front? your mix-up of tires may not jive with the gearing on the Felony. I also think you are going too large in steps with your shock oil changes. Keep the step to 250 cSt at a time. 1000 is so big of a jump you won't know what is doing what. Personally, I would be changing springs instead. You need to tune weight transfer, so do it with preload or spring swaps. It'll cost less and is easier to do in the field. Last is the diff. On-road requires way less diff action than loose off-road driving. Up front on a Felony, I'd be thinking 10k cSt, maybe even 5k, because you have got to be dragging those front tires somewhere. Probably from the front or center diff being too stiff...
I tried my old rear hoons and brand new rear hoons and the result is the same. I made the front shocks stiffer. I went from 2k oil to 3k because the front was a lot softer than the rear. It ran fine on hoons on 10k/100k/50k i did run on my old set of hoons.with the new setup (front tires showing the belt on a few spots) the drifts felt more natural on corners. Now my truck likes to pull left for some reason. I get confused about what to do. If it turns to the right you increase the right front shock tension or unthread the left shock Right? Im running talion axles in the rear so i have like 10mm more witdh than a normal felony and it was suffering from understeer because the rear was refusing to break loose.

Here iS a video of my felony on 10/100/50 on silver hoons running a month ago. 2 degres of toe out, 1 degree of front camper and 0 degres of rear camper. Im now running 1 degree of camper in the rear.
I could increase rear camber gain. My front hoons are done my rears still have threads left. What would you do to reduce front traction with suspension setup. For the rear to increase traction would be more camper rise but that might create more uneven wear?
 
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Ahh, I just re-read and realized you were trying to achieve drift. Looks like you've got good control as far as powering around goes. Since it's drift you're after, and you are wearing the front tires, it might be worth it to try reducing the viscosity of your center diff. That will send less power to the front while in a powered drift. In 4wd with a rigid center diff, as the rears slip from power the front will slip too. With a softer diff, the rear will slip more and the front will slip less, allowing better steering and front lead under power. In other words, you want to overpower the rear to initiate drift without breaking traction on the front so you still have steering control and can pull out of over and under steer with a blip of the throttle.
 
Ahh, I just re-read and realized you were trying to achieve drift. Looks like you've got good control as far as powering around goes. Since it's drift you're after, and you are wearing the front tires, it might be worth it to try reducing the viscosity of your center diff. That will send less power to the front while in a powered drift. In 4wd with a rigid center diff, as the rears slip from power the front will slip too. With a softer diff, the rear will slip more and the front will slip less, allowing better steering and front lead under power. In other words, you want to overpower the rear to initiate drift without breaking traction on the front so you still have steering control and can pull out of over and under steer with a blip of the throttle.
I can 180 with a single trigger press but going on a lighter center diff fluid isnt it going to increase front wheel spin?? Im saying this because that is what i learned on the off road trucks.
 
I went out on my new silvers hoons front and rear and the difference is night and day. I was having a tiny bit of understeer. It was cold outside today. The slight understeer while drifting is due to the cold temperatures I believe and because my front shocks had more preload than ussual because of the previous setup with the GRP’s. i felt my braking a bit underwhelming. It was cold and the front tires has a bit less grip now than before because of the 3k fluid+brand new tires made the time to come to a stop longer.
 
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