Forged carbon parts

[rotauq]

After seeing this video, i instantly ordered a kit. Anyone already have some experience with cold compression moulding?

​

 

[Sandracer_NL]

Just watch the vid.
Rotauq’s Custom Carbon Fiber Shop soon?
First customer. I’m still looking for an Infraction roller and saw some nice upgrades: side skirts, front lip, inner fenders. But not made out of carbon fiber

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Curious what parts you might make?

Could make some carbon A-Arms or something like that....

 

[rotauq]

As the guy is making levers it does suggest it's plenty strong to be used for structural parts.

A-Arms came to mind first as well, but that's gonna be a real challenge. Custom Front lip and side skirts are likely gonna be my first trails.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

As the guy is making levers it does suggest it's plenty strong to be used for structural parts.

A-Arms came to mind first as well, but that's gonna be a real challenge. Custom Front lip and side skirts are likely gonna be my first trails.

My thought went to a custom diffuser or chassis.

 

[21STalion]

As the guy is making levers it does suggest it's plenty strong to be used for structural parts.

Well either that or this guy is about to get a crash course in product liability real quick.

 

[slick2500]

Well either that or this guy is about to get a crash course in product liability real quick.

.

 

[N.Mango]

No expert by any means but it seems like the carbon wouldnt really matter as its the resin holding it all together. The resin is the weak link....the better quality and correct type of resin will determine the strength of the part. (was a epoxy injection specialist back in the day. It was for concrete restoration but its kind of relevant here.)

 

[LibertyMKiii]

No expert by any means but it seems like the carbon wouldnt really matter as its the resin holding it all together. The resin is the weak link....the better quality and correct type of resin will determine the strength of the part. (was a epoxy injection specialist back in the day. It was for concrete restoration but its kind of relevant here.)

Yep I agree a good epoxy resin makes all the difference. I can recommend the total boat 5:1 epoxy resin with their crystal clear hardner (mixing with this harnder is not at 5:1)

I have only worked with standard weave and twill weaves, but the process should be the same.
There are different strengths of carbon fiber and quality levels. In general if you are ok with a small amount of flex in the part then the nearly 2x cost is not worth it for the aerospace grade stuff. (often called high modulus or a high toray rating)

There are some YT videos showing carbon parts flexibility at 2 layers, 5 layers, 8 layers, 12 layers etc. The strength is nearly exponential and really ramps up as additional layers are added.

Having used chopped strand mat fiberglass for my mold making I can say that the "forged carbon" random orientation pattern would help strength quite a bit.

 

[N.Mango]

Yep I agree a good epoxy resin makes all the difference. I can recommend the total boat 5:1 epoxy resin with their crystal clear hardner (mixing with this harnder is not at 5:1)

I have only worked with standard weave and twill weaves, but the process should be the same.
There are different strengths of carbon fiber and quality levels. In general if you are ok with a small amount of flex in the part then the nearly 2x cost is not worth it for the aerospace grade stuff. (often called high modulus or a high toray rating)

There are some YT videos showing carbon parts flexibility at 2 layers, 5 layers, 8 layers, 12 layers etc. The strength is nearly exponential and really ramps up as additional layers are added.

Having used chopped strand mat fiberglass for my mold making I can say that the "forged carbon" random orientation pattern would help strength quite a bit.

Good point on the pattern of the fiber. Epoxy has no set measurements as atmosphere comes into play but recommendations are always a good starting point. Mixture is the hardest part to master as to cold wont do anything and too hot will be brittle. Tricky thing that epoxy!

With that said, the idea sounds amazing and if someone @rotauq makes it happen that someone @rotauq will be making some awesome game changing parts!

 

[rotauq]

My thought went to a custom diffuser or chassis.

A custom diffuser That's definately a point where the design can improve. Arrma's choice of it's angle is more marketing than effectivity IMHO.

As for a (whole) chassis, the proces is different from laminating and does require plenty of pressure i think thin big surfaces are gonna be difficult. To optimally make use of the choatic fiberpattern it does need volume and form.

Good point on the pattern of the fiber. Epoxy has no set measurements as atmosphere comes into play but recommendations are always a good starting point. Mixture is the hardest part to master as to cold wont do anything and too hot will be brittle. Tricky thing that epoxy!

With that said, the idea sounds amazing and if someone @rotauq makes it happen that someone @rotauq will be making some awesome game changing parts!

I do have experience with epoxy mixing. Just finished up laminating a new Hyper7 body with epoxy fiberglas. The body itself had real bad wall-thickness (<1mm). For that reason i won't recommened it to others. But because of it's from, epoxy/glasfiber has made it rock solid, with minimal added weight.
It being a little short for the limitless diffuser, making a custom one would be ideal as prototype. I will certainly mess up the mixture the first 2 times, we'll see.

This UK based Easy Composites Ltd does have a branch/warehouse in NL to distribute in the EU. I got an email from the sales guy they just sent a restock batch to NL, so i'd likely get it before Xmas. Time for CAD

 

[N.Mango]

A custom diffuser That's definately a point where the design can improve. Arrma's choice of it's angle is more marketing than effectivity IMHO.

As for a (whole) chassis, the proces is different from laminating and does require plenty of pressure i think thin big surfaces are gonna be difficult. To optimally make use of the choatic fiberpattern it does need volume and form.


I do have experience with epoxy mixing. Just finished up laminating a new Hyper7 body with epoxy fiberglas. The body itself had real bad wall-thickness (<1mm). For that reason i won't recommened it to others. But because of it's from, epoxy/glasfiber has made it rock solid, with minimal added weight.
It being a little short for the limitless diffuser, making a custom one would be ideal as prototype. I will certainly mess up the mixture the first 2 times, we'll see.

This UK based Easy Composites Ltd does have a branch/warehouse in NL to distribute in the EU. I got an email from the sales guy they just sent a restock batch to NL, so i'd likely get it before Xmas. Time for CAD

NICE!
Sounds like they got good cust. service.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

A custom diffuser That's definately a point where the design can improve. Arrma's choice of it's angle is more marketing than effectivity IMHO.

As for a (whole) chassis, the proces is different from laminating and does require plenty of pressure i think thin big surfaces are gonna be difficult. To optimally make use of the choatic fiberpattern it does need volume and form.


I do have experience with epoxy mixing. Just finished up laminating a new Hyper7 body with epoxy fiberglas. The body itself had real bad wall-thickness (<1mm). For that reason i won't recommened it to others. But because of it's from, epoxy/glasfiber has made it rock solid, with minimal added weight.
It being a little short for the limitless diffuser, making a custom one would be ideal as prototype. I will certainly mess up the mixture the first 2 times, we'll see.

This UK based Easy Composites Ltd does have a branch/warehouse in NL to distribute in the EU. I got an email from the sales guy they just sent a restock batch to NL, so i'd likely get it before Xmas. Time for CAD

Sounds interesting. I have serious concerns about clamping down a 3d printed 2 part mold in a vice....
I may wait for you to spend tons of money figuring out the right way to do it

 

[N.Mango]

I've watched countless videos on 3d printing and that in itself seems to have a serious learning curve...?
If printed correctly, how strong is a printed part?
I think a mold could work with complete coverage of the surface of the mold in the press. (assuming 3d printed parts are as strong as they seem to be when done right) ????????

@rotauq Sounds like it could be a good hustle!

 

[rotauq]

I've watched countless videos on 3d printing and that in itself seems to have a serious learning curve...?
If printed correctly, how strong is a printed part?
I think a mold could work with complete coverage of the surface of the mold in the press. (assuming 3d printed parts are as strong as they seem to be when done right) ????????

@rotauq Sounds like it could be a good hustle!

Luckily that 3d printing learning curve is already behind me. Designing moulds will be a challenge though.

Strenght should be fine. With a high infill and enough volume petg/pla should be strong enough for this application. Weakest part of 3d print is the layer adhesion (vertical axis of the print), which also doesn't mind compression too much. 5 tons pressure will slice through it as it's butter though.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

My thought would be to do what I have always done.... Make the part 3d printed. Sand it down and apply primer/body filler to make it perfectly smooth. Then use his casting method to make the 2 part mold off that 3d printed piece.

It appears that this method would give you the vacuum bagged resin infusion carbon fiber weight and strength without all the headache of vacuum bagging.

Just has more initial effort up front making the 2 part mold. Probably wouldn't be ideal for really large parts like a 1/7 scale body.

 

[N.Mango]

My thought would be to do what I have always done.... Make the part 3d printed. Sand it down and apply primer/body filler to make it perfectly smooth. Then use his casting method to make the 2 part mold off that 3d printed piece.

It appears that this method would give you the vacuum bagged resin infusion carbon fiber weight and strength without all the headache of vacuum bagging.

Just has more initial effort up front making the 2 part mold. Probably wouldn't be ideal for really large parts like a 1/7 scale body.

I have to get me a 3d printer.
That is a great idea for making molds for a lot of different things. Using the print to make the actual mold design would be very useful in making trolling lures. Off subject but it popped in my mind when you mentioned that idea.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

I have to get me a 3d printer.
That is a great idea for making molds for a lot of different things. Using the print to make the actual mold design would be very useful in making trolling lures. Off subject but it popped in my mind when you mentioned that idea.

If you do the ender 3 seems to be the model to get after many threads and discussions on it.
Lots of upgrades you can do and can expand it to larger sizes.

My 1/7 scale bodies have always been 3d printed. If you know how to do sanding, primer, and body filler you can make a nice plug for creating a mold.

My latest one for the 200+ project:

 

[N.Mango]

If you do the ender 3 seems to be the model to get after many threads and discussions on it.
Lots of upgrades you can do and can expand it to larger sizes.

My 1/7 scale bodies have always been 3d printed. If you know how to do sanding, primer, and body filler you can make a nice plug for creating a mold.

My latest one for the 200+ project:
View attachment 186672

Thanks for the tip. I have come across that model a few times in my recent review searches.

Amazing! Is that what became the carbon body?

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Thanks for the tip. I have come across that model a few times in my recent review searches.

Amazing! Is that what became the carbon body?

Pre-bodywork pics so you can see the prints

I had started the sanding in this picture and gluing the pieces together.