Kraton Found some broken parts. What are your thoughts on replacements? Thx

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parcou

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Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock
  2. Felony
  3. Fireteam
  4. Granite
  5. Infraction
  6. Kraton EXB
  7. Talion EXB
  8. Typhon TLR
  9. Vorteks
I do a full breakdown and service after 20ish battery packs on my rigs...today the Kraton 6S EXB was up. After 43 runs, I found on the front:

  • The front lower hinge pins were bent...not bad can be hammered out but I rather not. That was not the case on the last service.
  • The safe-D input shaft cup is wobbling. It is bent somehow. I thought it was the GP4 spiral diff input gear but after replacing it the wobble was still there so it is the cup

I'm not sure how I did the damage, but after so many runs that seems good. I do not want to M2C the rig.

Question:
  1. M2C makes hinge pins for the KEXB their a little more than stock but not much. Any experience with M2C hinge durability over the stock? After so many runs I do not feel I need to go nutty and start M2C'ing the entire diff areas with their parts.
  2. M2C makes an input shaft cup and it is cheaper than the stock. How it bent I do not know....but the same question is the M2C more durable than the stock safe-D input shaft?

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Stock hinge pins are cheap, I just keep spares on hand for when they do eventually bend.

Every single Safe-D cup I have or have seen is machined poorly resulting in wobble. I have been replacing mine with the old Arrma diff outdrive cups AR310432.
 
Stock hinge pins are cheap, I just keep spares on hand for when they do eventually bend.

Every single Safe-D cup I have or have seen is machined poorly resulting in wobble. I have been replacing mine with the old Arrma diff outdrive cups AR310432.
That is nice great feedback...!!

Knowledge is half the battle. Thx for that part number (y)
 
I really like the m2c input cups, I've been replacing all of the stockers w/ them, because they all wobble & they seem to hold up well
M2C input cups....do you put that plastic sleeve back over the M2C version or leave it off?

I am not sure the purpose of the plastic sleeve anyway.
 
M2C input cups....do you put that plastic sleeve back over the M2C version or leave it off?

I am not sure the purpose of the plastic sleeve anyway.
Just leave it off, I don't think it'd fit anyway. I think that it was meant as some kind of redundant safety feature in case the grub screw came out
 
I do a full breakdown and service after 20ish battery packs on my rigs...today the Kraton 6S EXB was up. After 43 runs, I found on the front:

  • The front lower hinge pins were bent...not bad can be hammered out but I rather not. That was not the case on the last service.
  • The safe-D input shaft cup is wobbling. It is bent somehow. I thought it was the GP4 spiral diff input gear but after replacing it the wobble was still there so it is the cup

I'm not sure how I did the damage, but after so many runs that seems good. I do not want to M2C the rig.

Question:
  1. M2C makes hinge pins for the KEXB their a little more than stock but not much. Any experience with M2C hinge durability over the stock? After so many runs I do not feel I need to go nutty and start M2C'ing the entire diff areas with their parts.
  2. M2C makes an input shaft cup and it is cheaper than the stock. How it bent I do not know....but the same question is the M2C more durable than the stock safe-D input shaft?

View attachment 266789View attachment 266790
I find that the stocker hinge pins are cheap enough to have on hand. I sometimes just polish them up in a drill with metal polish if they are still good. If they are slightly tweaked, I'll try and hammer them a bit truer if possible. But hard to get them perfect.
Some have stated that the M2C hinge pins Snap first versus bending. Because they are hardened. Pick you poison. I stayed stock.
I really think M2C input/ output cups are way better. Hardened steel. They don't wear out as fast as the stockers from my experience. So I just buy them. QC is going to be better with M2c also. Spin truer. And even the stockers are fairly expensive IMHO. Your call there.
 
I find that the stocker hinge pins are cheap enough to have on hand. I sometimes just polish them up in a drill with metal polish if they are still good. If they are slightly tweaked, I'll try and hammer them a bit truer if possible. But hard to get them perfect.
Some have stated that the M2C hinge pins Snap first versus bending. Because they are hardened. Pick you poison. I stayed stock.
I really think M2C input/ output cups are way better. Hardened steel. They don't wear out as fast as the stockers from my experience. So I just buy them. QC is going to be better with M2c also. Spin truer. And even the stockers are fairly expensive IMHO. Your call there.
Yeah I just happened to have a bunch of the old stock cups on hand. I think I am down to my last one though.
 
I have had the m2c hinge pins and they just bent the same as the stock ones so stay with stock they are cheaper also got the output cups and they do last longer than stock but not really worth it I would say
 
I have had the m2c hinge pins and they just bent the same as the stock ones so stay with stock they are cheaper also got the output cups and they do last longer than stock but not really worth it I would say
I was just comparing some things.
The Arrma 310342 cups are $14.97 each. https://www.amazon.com/Arrma-AR310432-Input-Shaft-7x18mm/dp/B00NE0FJSQ
The M2C cups are $17.31 each plus shipping. https://m2cracing.net/shop/shop.php...-SHAFT-CUP-F-R/p/478044610/category=136154760
The Scorched Rc cups are $30.00 plus shipping for 2 cups https://scorchedparts.co.uk/collect...ive-cup-pair-5mm-output-to-8mm-shaft-ball-end
 
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I was just comparing some things.
The Arrma 310342 cups are $14.97 each. https://www.amazon.com/Arrma-AR310432-Input-Shaft-7x18mm/dp/B00NE0FJSQ
The M2C cups are $17.31 each plus shipping. https://m2cracing.net/shop/shop.php...-SHAFT-CUP-F-R/p/478044610/category=136154760
The Scorched Rc cups are $30.00 plus shipping for 2 cups https://scorchedparts.co.uk/collect...ive-cup-pair-5mm-output-to-8mm-shaft-ball-end
arrma cups probably worth it then been a while since I got any (y)
 
Stock hinge pins are cheap, I just keep spares on hand for when they do eventually bend.

Every single Safe-D cup I have or have seen is machined poorly resulting in wobble. I have been replacing mine with the old Arrma diff outdrive cups AR310432.
💯 agree on the second point. I ditched them before even running. Another good alternative would be hot racing I’ve had great success with them and techno input cuts. Techno has one grub screw. Hot racing has two. If you’rein a rush. But nothing will compare to scorched. That is what ever trust. I can’t vouch for M2c

But I will have to check, instead of buying stuff. I might have a extra pair of hot racing or OG arrma cups laying around that I would be willing to donate. Just got to look into my stash.
 
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💯 agree on the second point. I ditched them before even running. Another good alternative would be hot racing I’ve had great success with them and techno input cuts. Techno has one grub screw. Hot racing has two. If you’rein a rush. But nothing will compare to scorched. That is what ever trust. I can’t vouch for M2c

But I will have to check, instead of buying stuff. I might have an extra pair of hot racing or OG arrma cups laying around that I would be willing to donate. Just got to look into my stash.
Good call on Tekno. I replace defective stock cups with cups from the MT410. Surprisingly they’re the cheapest replacement I could find and they are high quality. Perfect fit.

https://www.horizonhobby.com/produc...r-front-rear-hardened-steel-eb48/TKR5075.html
 
+!!
I keep forgetting also. The ones on my Tekno MT are mint, yet well used, the original ones still, and also well machined. Only $10.00 (y) How can you beat that???:LOL:
 
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