Free money! Answer 1 question about 6s Arrma.....

[two0sicc]

Would the limitless v1 body be a direct fit onto felony 6s v2 chassis as it sits stock? Free gift card to anyone who can answer with proof. Thanks! Hmu

 

[Moirae]

It won't work without buying some extra parts

 

[SrC]

No.

 

[two0sicc]

What parts my friend? Your half way there!

No.

Close 2nd sorry bud.

It won't work without buying some extra parts

What parts and about how much $. Your bout 2 win

 

[SrC]

There are a slew of parts... need Lim Fr and Rear splitters and all. Lim Body posts are different etc.
Just that you will absolutley need to toss the Fel rear tires. And the rear accompanying Main and Input gear as well. The Fel rear wheels will hit the Lim body. I already tried fitting the 53/107 tires on the rear of my V1 Lim. No go.
53/107s don't fit at the front either. FWIW.

 

[two0sicc]

Fair enough. You win 10$ gift card to target. PM me for info. Your a legit boss

There are a slew of parts... need Fr and Rear splitters and all. Body posts are different etc.
Just that you will absolutley need to toss the Fel rear tires. And the rear accompanying Main and Input gear as well. The Fel wheels will hit the Lim body. I already tried fitting the 53/107 tires on the rear of my V1 Lim. No go.
53/107s don't fit at the front either.

How about infraction to felony straight swap right

 

[SrC]

Nope. Not a straight swap. But more easily done than a Lim body.
>>>The Large Fel rear wheels, again, will not allow the Infr. body to fit. The front and rear body posts/mounts, I believe are reversed to fit the Infr, body on. You will need a different set of splitters also.

 

[two0sicc]

What if I run 4 front felony wheels all around? Any issues with this? Performance or diff life expectancy wise? Thanks for sharing your knowledge

 

[Diem Turner]

What if I run 4 front felony wheels all around? Any issues with this? Performance or diff life expectancy wise? Thanks for sharing your knowledge

You'd still need to swap out either the front or rear diff so that the final drive ratio is the same. It shouldn't have any noticeable effect on the life of the diff (assuming maintenance is still performed at regular intervals). The Felony has two different diffs due to the different sized wheels/tires. If you want to run the same sized tires on all four corners, you'll need to have the same diffs front/rear.

 

[two0sicc]

Why is keeping final drive ratio so imperative? If I just ran it as it came and put whatever tires I wanted within reason, not king kongs obviously, what will suffer on my rc? What will fail? It's my understanding that these diffs are steel, and can take a significant amount of abuse. I'm not second guessing you, being condescending, or a smart ass. I'm legit trying to gain knowledge from one of the few people I've encountered on here that I genuinely believe knows a great deal and is worth talking to. Thank you for that.
No takers on gift card? I can honestly say I'm shocked. Next time I guess. Thanks to all for your input. Knowledge is power

 

[@9G]

I think the center diff would take the most punishment with the same size tires but two different gear ratios. The front already spins faster than the rear on the Felony due to the different ratio but the increased tire diameter at the rear compensates to keep the center diff gears moving in tune (and thus the entire drive train). If you put the same size tires all around the imbalance at the rear would damage the center diffs first (stripped teeth, broken pins, shattered drive cups, warped bearings, etc). Yes the gears are steel and can take a lot but ask anybody who has ever put real power beyond the stock motor/ESC combo and they'll tell you that these diffs can fail (at all positions...front, center, and rear) at any given moment. Even with the best preparation like shimming, greasing and heavier fluids diff failure can be quite common. It's just part of the game especially when you're trying to push for higher speeds and better performance.

 

[two0sicc]

Powerful words my friend. Straight droppin knowledge.
So if I put the same gear ratio in front as rear, then I can run same size tires in front as rear and vice versa, i would be ok? Would just swapping input gear accordingly accomplish this?

 

[Diem Turner]

Why is keeping final drive ratio so imperative? If I just ran it as it came and put whatever tires I wanted within reason, not king kongs obviously, what will suffer on my rc? What will fail? It's my understanding that these diffs are steel, and can take a significant amount of abuse. I'm not second guessing you, being condescending, or a smart ass. I'm legit trying to gain knowledge from one of the few people I've encountered on here that I genuinely believe knows a great deal and is worth talking to. Thank you for that.
No takers on gift card? I can honestly say I'm shocked. Next time I guess. Thanks to all for your input. Knowledge is power

No worries, I don't feel second guessed or that you're being condescending. You're just trying to understand something, that's all.

So let's see if I can make this understandable...

Your front tires have a diameter of 100mm (circumference 314mm). Your rear tires have a diameter of 107mm (circumference 336mm).

This means that for every full rotation, your rear tires are travelling further than your front tires by 22mm.

Your front diff has a ratio of 2.8:1 - that means that for every 2.8 rotations of the input gear, the diff rotates once.

Your rear diff has a ratio of 3.21:1 - this means that for every 3.21 rotations of the input gear, the diff rotates once.

Since your center drive shafts are rotating in unison, the rear diff needs to spin slower so that your front and rear wheels cover the same distance for every rotation of the center drive shafts.

If you wanted to, you could run the same sized tires on all four corners. But this will create the following problem: Your front wheels will spin faster than your rear wheels because the diffs have different ratios (your final drive ratio is dependent on both your diff gear ratio and the diameter/circumference of your tires). While having front tires that spin faster than the rear tires can be useful in crawlers to help pull you up a boulder or steep incline without flipping over backwards, in road cars this will lead to a car with less than ideal handling characteristics as you're, essentially, dragging the slower moving rear tires with the faster moving front tires. The other problem will be the center diff which will constantly be fighting the two different wheel speeds front/rear.

I hope this makes sense.

Powerful words my friend. Straight droppin knowledge.
So if I put the same gear ratio in front as rear, then I can run same size tires in front as rear and vice versa, i would be ok? Would just swapping input gear accordingly accomplish this?

Unfortunately not. The Arrma diffs have paired input & ring gear which are identified by the designations GP4 (3.3:1), GP5 (2.8:1) and GP6 (3.21:1). They're not compatible amongst one another as the teeth are cut differently. You would need to change both input and ring gear.

 

[two0sicc]

Perfectly- flawlessly explained. Mind blown!
Can I pick your brain one more time?

No worries, I don't feel second guessed or that you're being condescending. You're just trying to understand something, that's all.

So let's see if I can make this understandable...

Your front tires have a diameter of 100mm (circumference 314mm). Your rear tires have a diameter of 107mm (circumference 336mm).

This means that for every full rotation, your rear tires are travelling further than your front tires by 22mm.

Your front diff has a ratio of 2.8:1 - that means that for every 2.8 rotations of the input gear, the diff rotates once.

Your rear diff has a ratio of 3.21:1 - this means that for every 3.21 rotations of the input gear, the diff rotates once.

Since your center drive shafts are rotating in unison, the rear diff needs to spin slower so that your front and rear wheels cover the same distance for every rotation of the center drive shafts.

If you wanted to, you could run the same sized tires on all four corners. But this will created the following problem: Your front wheels will spin faster than your rear wheels because the diffs have different ratios (your final drive ratio is dependent on both your diff gear ratio and the diameter/circumference of your tires). While having front tires that spin faster than the rear tires can be useful in crawlers to help pull you up a boulder or steep incline without flipping over backwards, in road cars this will lead to a car with less than ideal handling characteristics as you're, essentially, dragging the slower moving rear tires with the faster moving front tires. The other problem will be the center diff which will constantly be fighting the two different wheel speeds front/rear.

I hope this makes sense.

Unfortunately not. The Arrma diffs have paired input & ring gear which are identified by the designations GP4 (3.3:1), GP5 (2.8:1) and GP6 (3.21:1). They're not compatible amongst one another as the teeth are cut differently. You would need to change both input and ring gear.

Learned more in this exchange than all 4 years in high school. Seriously. Thanks to all for your valuable time and ideas. I appreciate you.
How would say 32mm I think they are hub extenders effect gears/drive train if at all? Brain picked thanks!

 

[Ron Burgandy]

These guys absolutely know what they are talking about….
In fact I think I’ve learned all I know RC from the above posters !!!
And they have helped me spend a small portion of my children’s college funds
Having said that I have run my felony with all 4 - 42/100 front tire size all the way around and actually prefer the way it handles like that . Keep in mind this is with the factory motor and esc .
But I’ve never had a diff fail from running the same size tires with factory felony gearing
YMMV !!!!

 

[Jeppyjep]

These guys absolutely know what they are talking about….
In fact I think I’ve learned all I know RC from the above posters !!!
And they have helped me spend a small portion of my children’s college funds
Having said that I have run my felony with all 4 - 42/100 front tire size all the way around and actually prefer the way it handles like that . Keep in mind this is with the factory motor and esc .
But I’ve never had a diff fail from running the same size tires with factory felony gearing
YMMV !!!!

True , you can learn a bunch in this forum .

 

[#ARRMArcfanboy4life]

How would say 32mm I think they are hub extenders effect gears/drive train if at all?

Hub extenders shouldn't make anything fail.

 

[Diem Turner]

Perfectly- flawlessly explained. Mind blown!
Can I pick your brain one more time?

Learned more in this exchange than all 4 years in high school. Seriously. Thanks to all for your valuable time and ideas. I appreciate you.
How would say 32mm I think they are hub extenders effect gears/drive train if at all? Brain picked thanks!

I'm not 100% certain that you were asking this, but just to be complete, hub extenders have zero effect on gearing as they only make your car wider. They shouldn't affect your gears or drivetrain at all. One thing that might be worth pointing out is that, in the case of a crash where your wheels are hit from the front or rear, the hub extenders (which make your suspension arms longer overall) will increase the leverage and with that the force exerted on suspension arms, bulkheads, hinge pins and so on which could, potentially, increase the possibility of damage depending on the angle and severity of the impact.

It will surely affect the behavior of the car to an extent but, in theory, if you're extending all four hubs by the same amount, I'd think it stands to reason that the effect should be somewhat homogenous. Much will depend on how you drive or what you intend to do with the car. Depending on the use case it might be beneficial to widen the rear and leave the front stock, or vice versa. Generally speaking, I'd suggest to leave the car's track width stock and begin with swapping diffs and tires so that you're running the same size on all four corners, if that's the path you're going to go down. I'd suggest going with the standard sized 100mm diameter wheels as there's just a much bigger range of options in terms of manufacturers, compounds, colors, styles, etc.

This is just a suggestion of course, I'm not trying to tell you what to do with your car. I just of the opinion that the 6S street basher series runs best when you have four same sized wheels after talking with a lot of people on here. Will there be exceptions to this rule? Surely. But I'd argue that those running unconventional wheel configurations got there by an iterative process. But that's just my take. If you have a different vision, please don't let me interfere with it.

Try to resist the urge to change too many things at once so that, should the vehicle exhibit undesirable behavior, it will make it easier to track down which of the changes may have caused it. If you change 10 things on your car in one go and then it drives like a steaming turd, you're going to go crazy trying to figure out what happened. Make a change, maybe two and then drive the car and see how it runs. Rinse repeat.

It's true that the cars aren't setup identically from the factory and I've heard a range of experiences from people on here from "screws weren't tightened down and car wouldn't drive properly" to "thing drove great right out of the box". But generally speaking the cars drive pretty good as they come. That's why I say, go slow. If you want to buy a bunch of parts to try out, by all means. Just don't install them all at once is my point.

Sorry for the long ramble. I can get verbose at times.

 

[Velodromed]

Would the limitless v1 body be a direct fit onto felony 6s v2 chassis as it sits stock? Free gift card to anyone who can answer with proof. Thanks! Hmu

Folks here freely share information. You’d have gotten the same consideration without offering a gift card or reward. This forum is full of knowledgeable people that want to share and assist. Also, I noticed your watchdog post in For Sale and that only adds to my confusion (what’s the angle here?). Maybe you’re just having fun but still…

If you really want to ‘reward’ for the info you receive, purchase a forum premium membership. That benefits everyone by supporting this amazing forum. But being new and unknown, by asking for someone’s personal info to send a gift card/reward, that raises red flags. At least for me.

 

[Jon NC RC]

No worries, I don't feel second guessed or that you're being condescending. You're just trying to understand something, that's all.

So let's see if I can make this understandable...

Your front tires have a diameter of 100mm (circumference 314mm). Your rear tires have a diameter of 107mm (circumference 336mm).

This means that for every full rotation, your rear tires are travelling further than your front tires by 22mm.

Your front diff has a ratio of 2.8:1 - that means that for every 2.8 rotations of the input gear, the diff rotates once.

Your rear diff has a ratio of 3.21:1 - this means that for every 3.21 rotations of the input gear, the diff rotates once.

Since your center drive shafts are rotating in unison, the rear diff needs to spin slower so that your front and rear wheels cover the same distance for every rotation of the center drive shafts.

If you wanted to, you could run the same sized tires on all four corners. But this will created the following problem: Your front wheels will spin faster than your rear wheels because the diffs have different ratios (your final drive ratio is dependent on both your diff gear ratio and the diameter/circumference of your tires). While having front tires that spin faster than the rear tires can be useful in crawlers to help pull you up a boulder or steep incline without flipping over backwards, in road cars this will lead to a car with less than ideal handling characteristics as you're, essentially, dragging the slower moving rear tires with the faster moving front tires. The other problem will be the center diff which will constantly be fighting the two different wheel speeds front/rear.

I hope this makes sense.

Unfortunately not. The Arrma diffs have paired input & ring gear which are identified by the designations GP4 (3.3:1), GP5 (2.8:1) and GP6 (3.21:1). They're not compatible amongst one another as the teeth are cut differently. You would need to change both input and ring gear.

Now THAT...... Is an explanation even I can understand !!!

Well done!!