Notorious Fries differential?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Manley00

Active Member
Messages
68
Reaction score
105
Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Kraton 6s
Man- maybe I’m not cut out for this RC thing ?. I’m breaking more than I’m fixing.

Had to get new bulkhead installed so did a swap from my Kraton to my Notorious. Until it arrives.

Now- power isn’t being distributed properly anywhere. It’s as if the mid diff is spinning too fast? Rears light up but fronts barely move. I moved diff from Kraton to Notorious and same issue.

Realized something was smoking and car sounded a little rough.

I took off the Diff cover and saw this. What in the world is causing this lol
 

Attachments

  • 84584350-5F0C-4AEA-8921-C0EDC4610EF6.jpeg
    84584350-5F0C-4AEA-8921-C0EDC4610EF6.jpeg
    335.7 KB · Views: 97
  • F7DC3774-45D0-455F-852C-12D5551B47BC.jpeg
    F7DC3774-45D0-455F-852C-12D5551B47BC.jpeg
    318.1 KB · Views: 72
The center diff is fried. :(
I've been through this. The Stock center diff fluid is too thin and usually underfilled in my opinion. Rebuild a new diff with 500K cst Fluid at the center diff. Stock fluid is 100K for reference. No one rebuilds with that. Just tooo thin and you end up diffing out and the Center diff shoots up to more than 200 deg. F. Diff case literally melts and the whole diff becomes junk, even the bearings. Been there. This is not out of the norm. Unless you change out the OE diff fluid to 500k when new out of the box, this will happen to all at some point. Some are using 200K or 300K. Most I think are using 500k with the best results overall. Others may chime in.
FYI, Im running 30kF, 500kcenter, and 60K R. don't go over 100K in the front and rear diffs.
How you setup the F/R diffs will affect on-throttle and off-throttle steering for the most part. Stock is 10K F and R. Also a bit too thin for me.
 
Last edited:
Thanks!!! Im buying all metal diff cases- noticed the front diff case right where the bearing sits had spun all the way off. I believe it was free spinning and caused the center diff to melt.
 
I know exactly what you are describing. I also used the Arrma Optional Metal diff case for my Center Diff. It runs cooler overall also. The Center Diff gets all the abuse for the most part, then the rear diff. follows.
I don't bother or need to use Metal Diff cases in the front or rear because I want less rotational weight at the axels. Plastic is fine, But the plastic ones do wear out, but are cheap to replace. Metal Center is more critical IMO.
 
You probably just saved me $40. Haha I’ll start with the center.
 
My temp gun was showing over 200 deg F when it exploded. It actually heated up the motor as well. Start with
20200222_183921.jpg
the center. (y)
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top