Kraton Front diff problems
- Thread starter Travisf90
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Did you use the factory shim next to the bearing? Thats how you take up lateral play.
Also in your first photo of the diff: whats the line going around it,looks like a cracked diff housing.
Did you use the factory shim next to the bearing? Thats how you take up lateral play.
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- Thread starter
- #4
There's a factory shim? I sure don't have any factory shims in there I never have.. and it looks like where it's molded together definitely not a crack
My front and back diff had them as well as a spare i bought,but i can't find a part no. for them in my manual!
- Thread starter
- #8
i don't think i would be able to have enough room for a shim in there neither for or rear has them i tore them both apart a few times and def not in there unless its like a very thin shim im talking 2mm or thinner im not sure ill look at my manual its in the book how old is your kraton?
my book doesn't show them i guess ill give Arrma support a call tomorrow and see what they have to say cause im tired of spending 35 bucks every 3-4 weeks for it to do the same thing over and over this past time everything was new including the case and i still had problems
my book doesn't show them i guess ill give Arrma support a call tomorrow and see what they have to say cause im tired of spending 35 bucks every 3-4 weeks for it to do the same thing over and over this past time everything was new including the case and i still had problems
Its probably .15mm or less,very thin and my Kraton is a V2.doesn't show in the manual,might need to contact Arrma to get a number.There easy to loose as they stick to the bearing.
Stockstinks
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I too would like to know what part number .
Trickelitrick
Active Member
I used xray 5x15x0.3mm shim in the bottom of the diffcup...satisfied
Part nr XRA964050
In the centerdiff i put one in bottom and top of cup.....on front and rear its a bit too tight with two shims so either only in the bottom or two shims and don't tight the screws as much as you would like to
- Thread starter
- #12
Well I called support and they are going to send me an entire new front end to see how that goes he said there are two different gear cuts sprial and straight. the straight cut gears use shims and the sprial does not but he is sending some just incase so once I get them I'll post the part numbers as long as they have it on the package
The Kraton uses spiral gears and uses a shim,support might not know?Please post the pn if you can.
- Thread starter
- #14
The gentleman said it depends on the age of the kraton he said the new ones all use the sprial and shims. he said you shouldn't need them with the spiral cut gears at least that's what he's saying so I'll wait an see should have it by the end of the week
GT1
Member
Shims come in various thicknesses of usually .1 mm - up to .2.
They are 16mm OD x 13mm ID and again, various thickness.
I managed to get a .1mm tekno brand shim in my rear Typhon case(I have Associated, Team Durago, and Tekno, all same OD and ID size, just different thickness). The front case was tighter and I could not get one in there.
It all depends on manufacturing tolerances. One case might be loose enough to fit a couple shims, one tight without any.
You can find shims from most of the favorite online places and possibly your local hobby store.
They are 16mm OD x 13mm ID and again, various thickness.
I managed to get a .1mm tekno brand shim in my rear Typhon case(I have Associated, Team Durago, and Tekno, all same OD and ID size, just different thickness). The front case was tighter and I could not get one in there.
It all depends on manufacturing tolerances. One case might be loose enough to fit a couple shims, one tight without any.
You can find shims from most of the favorite online places and possibly your local hobby store.
- Thread starter
- #16
Well I wait and see I get an email about it shipping so in the email he said it is fully assembled and properly shimed already so I'll see what happens other wise I'm not sure what's going on im only running 4s with a MM2 everything is holding up fine just not those gears besides the motor sliding and eating a pinion gear
- Thread starter
- #17
your shimming next to the bearings correct i got everything today and checked it out and i still have side to side slope so im waiting till i get shims i believe i would need 6x18x whatever thickness i can fit to push the ring gear closer to the pinion then i think i will stop having problems
are those bearings 6x18? im trying to figure that out
RCpete
Member
I had lots of play in my Talion diffs and no shims came installed or in the box, luckily had some HPI shims from my Trophy that done the job nicely....you will end up eating gears if too much play is there thats for sure.
On another note i also shim the two bigger internal diff gears aswel as i had massive amounts of movement in the diff outdrives.
On another note i also shim the two bigger internal diff gears aswel as i had massive amounts of movement in the diff outdrives.
- Thread starter
- #19
would you happen to have a part number for the shims you used on the outside at the bearings are the bearings 18mm i found some shims that i think will work
http://www.team-durango.com/part-info.php?partNo=TD310475
they are 5x18x0.2mm
RCpete
Member
Those are shims for the internal diff gears which are also a must as there was huge play in the diff outdrives....(mind you newer v2 editions may have solved this)
The shims i used on the bearings to stop the entire diff moving are these https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-shim-13x16x0.2mm-10pcs-/rc-car-products/32237
forget about shimming the pinion gear, you take the diff out and pop these hpi shims on the bearings on the diff itself...take a bit of time, trial and error to find out what runs smooth and stops the diff moving from side to side...its this movement that is eating your diffs.
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