Fury upgrades I've done

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Fury upgrades I've done

Skaxis

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Arrma RC's
  1. Fury
The Gmades are such a poor fit for my Fury that I've moved them over to my daughters Tamiya TT-02B Pink Special Neo Scorcher and they are great on it. I'll need to order up some new Integy's for the Fury. Until then, I'm reinstalling the stock shocks.

Thanks Mr. Belloso. I'll have to order them up. :)
 

OrangeDRAGON

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Arrma RC's
  1. Fury
  2. Raider
From my past experience, (which is probably wrong lol ) shocks with the weep holes in the cap are supposed to be only for 'over-pressure' relief, basically only to allow weeping if something internally fails, so oil would weep instead of blowing the top of a shock or bending the shaft. While that 'idea' may be perfectly acceptable for controlled course use, it wasn't viable for me (a backyard basher) it just meant that oil leaked out after every run, if not a little even at rest.

As long as I'm working with 2wd 1/10 or 'lightweight' trucks I stick with the traxxas big-bore sets and slash springs, I run 50wt up front and 40wt in the rear, a little stiff but no problems day-to-day. If I was going to run on a track or aim for some consistency I'd swap to 35wt front and 30wt in the rear. The problems start to occur on heavier trucks, either added weight from mods or using on a 4wd rig - when my stampede was built (nearly twice the original weight) I used them in combination with stiffer springs at 50wt I started to run into problems, usually bent shafts.

On the one hand I'm not a 'fan' of the big-bore set, but 100+ hours of use across 3 different 2wd 1/10 setups has proven them to be reliable and consistent (as long as the truck stays 'light'), so in a way they have 'earned' their keep on my rig
 
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Skaxis

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Arrma RC's
  1. Fury
Mu original Fury body has taken a bit of a beating over the last 15 months. I bought a replacement off eBay but I really don't care for the baby blue color. What's more, the stock 2013 style body, while it looks great (IMHO) it has horrible parachute effect. I've drilled out a number of holes along the base of the windshield and in the bed area to little effect. So I decided to get a "proper" race body. After looking over all the major options from Bitty Design, JConcepts and Pro-Line I settled on the Pro-Line Toyota Tundra body (Product ID : 3364-00).

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It took me about 30 minutes to trim up the body using my Duratrax Lexan scissors and an X-acto knife. I was really pleased with how well the body fit! The forward most pre-marked dimples on the hood were spot on for the Fury's body posts. The rear body posts lined up right in the middle of the forward most and the next forward most dimples in the back.
Note: I trimmed the rear area where the bumper fits at the higher of the two trim lines.

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A very light coat of Duratrax basic black polycarbonate paint to seal the window masks:

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I slowly built up a few coats then laid down a thick coat of Duratrax black backer paint. Viola!

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It's not staying basic black but I thought I'd throw the body onto the chassis and take a pic just in case anyone wanted to see what this body would look like with a one-color wonder paint bomb paint job. IMHO, it looks darn good!

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I could have very easily thrown the Pro-Line decal set on this and called it a day but that is not what I have in mind for this body. I read that the AMR vinyl wrap decal kits were not only good looking, but they added a layer of protection unparalleled even by fiberglass tapers tape and Shoe goo. This seems totally legit since AMR also makes vinyl wraps for motocross bikes and ATVs. So I picked up a Mad Hatter wrap kit in red.

Each piece of the decal kit is pre-cut from the backing.

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They are also wicked thick! Probably the thickest decals I've ever worked with.

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After a few hours of carefully placing each section the wrap was complete. It states very clearly in the instructions that you must heat it with a hair dryer otherwise the laminate will not adhere properly. So I did as instructed, rubbing each piece down with my finger to ensure the best possible adhesion. Here are the results:

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Even with applying heat to try and soften and mold the decals, some bits proved challenging to get to lay perfectly flat. The front-top of the fenders were the most difficult. No matter what I did I simply could not get either side to lay down totally flat. I continually got 2-3 small wrinkles. The only solution I could come up with was to slice the wrinkle with my X-acto knife and layer the wrinkle. This is an ok solution but I wish AMR would have taken the curvature of certain parts of the body into account and made allowance for more body curves than they did.

I still need to cut out the air vent holes in the body with my Dremel tool but I won't do that until I find a track within driving distance that has a MOD 2WD SCT class to run this in!

While I was wrenching on my Fury yesterday I finally installed the upgrade heatsink motor plate.

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Stock motor plate ready to be removed with all the screws, motor and spur gear gone.

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New heat sink motor plate installed. I also replaced the old red colored slipper pads with some "2014 spec" green jobbers.

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Pretty red bling with Arrma logo.

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This was probably just a a waste of money. The stock motor plate is solid aluminum. I highly doubt that the few channels machined into the motor plate are going to increase surface area or air flow enough to actually help cool the motor any more effectively than the perfectly flat stock jobber. But hey, it's red and pretty! ;)
 

Theonlylukas

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Arrma RC's
  1. Fury
Does the Tamiya Super Stock BZ work with the stock ESC? Thanks for this great post.
Also, will this motor be a better option than the stock motor?
 
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Skaxis

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Yep, the Mega ESC worked great with the Dirt Tuned and since the BZ is a 23T motor it'll work just as fine. Since upgrading my Mega to brushless via the Castle Sidewinder SCT combo I moved the Mega ESC to my Grasshopper and silver can 540. Works like a champ!
 

Theonlylukas

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  1. Fury
My friend said that the Tamiya Super Stock would significantly reduce the speed? Is this true? Are there any bigger tires I could get to increase it?
 

Skaxis

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  1. Fury
My friend said that the Tamiya Super Stock would significantly reduce the speed? Is this true? Are there any bigger tires I could get to increase it?

Speed comes from a number of things, not just the motor. Fewer turns = higher RPM which means higher top speed. More turns = lower RPM which means more torque. Very high speed means low torque, so running off road will be a fail. I personally prefer a well balanced rig. Good off the line acceleration and decent but controlled top end.
 
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Bri26

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Arrma RC's
  1. Fury
The Traxxas 12T Titan motor is a good inexpensive upgrade motor to use in place of the MEGA 15T motor.

Best regards,
Brian
 

Theonlylukas

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Arrma RC's
  1. Fury
Speed comes from a number of things, not just the motor. Fewer turns = higher RPM which means higher top speed. More turns = lower RPM which means more torque. Very high speed means low torque, so running off road will be a fail. I personally prefer a well balanced rig. Good off the line acceleration and decent buy controlled top end.
Thanks for explaining, i'm brand new to rc cars.
 

Skaxis

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  1. Fury
Thanks for explaining, i'm brand new to rc cars.
Sure thing, we all start somewhere. IMHO if you want to upgrade your Fury, get the Castle combo I did. It's inexpensive and virtually maintenance free. The combo won't cost much more than a Super Stock BZ.
 

Bri26

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  1. Fury
Would that fit since it's a 550?

The 550 size motor fits plus the ARRMA Mega esc is rated to a 12T motor. A 550 motor is 10mm longer than a 540, the extra room is available on the endbell side of the MEGA 15T motor in a Fury.

Best regards,
Brian
 

Theonlylukas

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Can you link me to the new arrma rims? I don't want to buy the wrong ones, and the old ones keep showing up in my cart.
 

Skaxis

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Theonlylukas

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  1. Fury
Here are the black-chrome ones I prefer: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=002896477&I=LXDZDL&P=K
Here are the chrome ones: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDZDK&P=7
Here are the black ones: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDZDH&P=7

Prices will vary over time. Two weeks ago the black-chrome ones were $3.99 a pair, this week it's the chrome ones. If you're patient the color you want will go on sale.
Thanks, do you remember where you bought the Super Stock BZ? I don't want to wait 1-2 months for it to come
 
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