Gear change issue Granite 3s BLX

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

godfella691981

Active Member
Messages
219
Reaction score
46
Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
So tonight I changed the gear in my Granite 3s blx from 15t to 20t. I took the screw out of the bottom, removed the driveshaft, and then when I tried to remove the motor assembly it was REALLY hard to get out, once I got it out I changed the gear and cleaned up inside a little bit. I had a hell of a time putting the motor back in, I lined up the shafts and when I tired to slide it together I couldnt I had to end up smacking it with a screwdriver to get it to go in place. I ran the truck and within 2 minutes the ESC shut down the motor was REALLY hot. The wheels do not spin freely like the did before I don't know what I did but something is in a bind.

Has anyone else had this issue?
 
So tonight I changed the gear in my Granite 3s blx from 15t to 20t. I took the screw out of the bottom, removed the driveshaft, and then when I tried to remove the motor assembly it was REALLY hard to get out, once I got it out I changed the gear and cleaned up inside a little bit. I had a hell of a time putting the motor back in, I lined up the shafts and when I tired to slide it together I couldnt I had to end up smacking it with a screwdriver to get it to go in place. I ran the truck and within 2 minutes the ESC shut down the motor was REALLY hot. The wheels do not spin freely like the did before I don't know what I did but something is in a bind.

Has anyone else had this issue?

Getting the power module back in can be a pain. The splines have from the spur gear assembly have to match up with the rear input shaft. I usually roll the truck back and forth a little to find the right position. Forcing it on was probably a bad idea. I’m sure something is not meshed properly/broken/or bound. I would remove everything and inspect. Start by seeing if it rolls freely with the power module out. Then check the spur/pinion mesh before you put the power module back in. Roll the spur with your thumb and feel for binding.
 
Getting the power module back in can be a pain. The splines have from the spur gear assembly have to match up with the rear input shaft. I usually roll the truck back and forth a little to find the right position. Forcing it on was probably a bad idea. I’m sure something is not meshed properly/broken/or bound. I would remove everything and inspect. Start by seeing if it rolls freely with the power module out. Then check the spur/pinion mesh before you put the power module back in. Roll the spur with your thumb and feel for binding.

I figured it would be hard to disassemble the first time, but re assembly took about an hour just to get the motor back in, I lined the splines up and everything its like the power module would not slide in that little track. I ended up taking it apart again later last night and I put it back together and it went right in, it must have just been something I did the first time. Let me tell ya the truck didnt like it at ALL, it cogged BAD and the wheels would almost slide when you pushed it on carpet, it was bad.
 
I figured it would be hard to disassemble the first time, but re assembly took about an hour just to get the motor back in, I lined the splines up and everything its like the power module would not slide in that little track. I ended up taking it apart again later last night and I put it back together and it went right in, it must have just been something I did the first time. Let me tell ya the truck didnt like it at ALL, it cogged BAD and the wheels would almost slide when you pushed it on carpet, it was bad.

Is it fixed now?
 
Is it fixed now?

Yes. Something had to have been bound up when I removed it the first time, it was a royal B**** to get out. The second time it went right together easily so who knows at least its fixed. I test ran it after dark last night before I put in the driveshaft, its crazy in 2wd I wont do that again.
 
This is little off topic but I wanted to drop this someplace. A lot of people know how to change the 14mm hex on the Arrma 1/10 scale to 12mm then to 17mm by using the Hot Racing 12mm to 17mm hex extension hubs, I have seen on this forum previously. I was given a part number for them and they only have a 6mm offset.
I just found a set of the HR 12mm to 17mm extensions that are 10mm offset Part number WH17HT01
The original HR Part number for the 6mm ones is WH17HS01 (their only about .20 cents cheaper then the 10mm)
Oh and the 12mm Hexes to replace the stock 14mm ones are Duratrax 3596 (Around $10)
 
Yes. Something had to have been bound up when I removed it the first time, it was a royal B**** to get out. The second time it went right together easily so who knows at least its fixed. I test ran it after dark last night before I put in the driveshaft, its crazy in 2wd I wont do that again.


what do you mean by "it was crazy"?? I was kinda pondering seeing what it was like with 2wd
 
what do you mean by "it was crazy"?? I was kinda pondering seeing what it was like with 2wd

Pretty much all it was doing is figure 8's. Even giving it slow throttle the rear end would slide out. Maybe on a hot day it would be good on dirt but not at 35 degrees out
 
It's pretty undriveable with 2wd.
I agree. Even on a 2s 50c battery.

I ended up putting my stock 15t back in, the darn thing kept cogging with the 20t in it and I have the stock motor mount. I hate that delay before it moves.
 
I agree. Even on a 2s 50c battery.

I ended up putting my stock 15t back in, the darn thing kept cogging with the 20t in it and I have the stock motor mount. I hate that delay before it moves.

I have an 18t pinion coming today or tomorrow. I’m going to modify the stock fixed mount so I can run it.
 
I have an 18t pinion coming today or tomorrow. I’m going to modify the stock fixed mount so I can run it.
What are you planning on using to cut the aluminum? I was going to do the same thing, but I don't have a dremel. I thought about drilling a bunch of small holes and trying to connect the dots but I think that might hack it up pretty good... hmmm.. maybe just eye-f it and add some holes between the 15 and 20 holes.
 
What are you planning on using to cut the aluminum? I was going to do the same thing, but I don't have a dremel. I thought about drilling a bunch of small holes and trying to connect the dots but I think that might hack it up pretty good... hmmm.. maybe just eye-f it and add some holes between the 15 and 20 holes.

I’m going to try my dremel. If that doesn’t work I’ll use a drill. I have two spare fixed motor mount plates since I purchased 2 HR adjustable. Give yours a shot and if you botch it badly I’ll send you one of mine.
 
I’m going to try my dremel. If that doesn’t work I’ll use a drill. I have two spare fixed motor mount plates since I purchased 2 HR adjustable. Give yours a shot and if you botch it badly I’ll send you one of mine.
Awesome, thanks boss! I think my 18 is coming today, but I won't be home til late. It may be a few days before I get time. Work is busy and it's my daughter's birthday this weekend. If i get on it, I'll post up some pics. Meanwhile I've been watching for those adjustables waiting for more stock...
 
I have a 13 pinion coming tomorrow I'm going to try, I'm also going to order a Big Rock BLX rear bumper and put on my Granite 3s blx, I don't like the stock one.

When I put on the MX28 Badlands will I have to use th 13t pinion? Or could I still use the 15t?
 
I have a 13 pinion coming tomorrow I'm going to try, I'm also going to order a Big Rock BLX rear bumper and put on my Granite 3s blx, I don't like the stock one.

When I put on the MX28 Badlands will I have to use th 13t pinion? Or could I still use the 15t?

You don't have to change pinions with those tires. And why the Big Rock bumper? It's chrome and might look out of place on the Granite.
 
You don't have to change pinions with those tires. And why the Big Rock bumper? It's chrome and might look out of place on the Granite.

With the big rock bumper it would look more like a truck plus serve as a mounting point for my rear taillights. I know most people mount them on their bodies but my t-bone bumper has 4-3mm holes in it already for lights. And I would like to keep my lights no matter what body I use, plus my stock one isnt worth putting lights in anymore LOL.

You want to hear something odd? I got my 13t gear in today for my Granite 3s BLX , I went to mount it and realized there is no 13 on the stock motor mount, I tried the 15 holes on the motor mount but the gear was barely touching the spur I wont run it like that.
This is the odd part, the part number for the 13t is 310425, according to Arrma the 13t fits the Senton, Granite and Typhon 3s BLX I don't understand this unless I was provided an incorrect or unfinished motor mount for my granite from the factory (it had 3 leaky shocks and an ESC that has went bad so it wouldnt surprise me.).
And if you look up the Granite 3s BLX motor mount part number AR310874 it shows 13,15,20,26 on the motor mount in the picture. Should I contact them and ask them were my correct motor mount is? I bet they tell me to drill the holes myself, they wont send one.

Parts Compatibility List
20190115_231218.jpg MY MOTOR MOUNT

FACTORY MOTOR MOUNT
AR
0e6c58e37007d3458a7106791ed7bbd421bc8c2cf8341559ed01cfe11022bc93.jpgMY 3S BLX MOTOR MOUNT.jpg
 
Last edited:
Here are the motor mount plates for my Granite and my BRCC:

20190116_075411.jpg


I'm going to guess that the one without the 13t pinion hole is from my Granite since I bought it when it first came out. They must have updated the mounting plate with the release of the BRCC. So I don't think yours is unfinished.
 
Thats strange, I just bought my Granite 3 weeks ago. And if I go look up a replacement motor mount for my Granite on the Arrma website it shows the one with #13 hole. On the compatibility list at the bottom of the part page, it shows that same motor plate for the whole BLX series. Not just the Big Rock.
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top