General discussions - FAST RC boat

I need those battery trays.. anyway you could get me the width on those, you get them off the OSE website? 🤔

I got them on OSE, but I shaved them down as they were too wide to fit. I put them on the belt sander and it made quick work removing the material.
 
I went to the lake yesterday to shake down the genesis and the baby cat, only to discover one battery didn't charge for the genesis. So, I ran the cat for the first time. I just installed new tp motors in the morning. It was running great till I flipped it. I had put bubble wrap floatation but it wasn't enough. Luckly, the lifeguard was probably on his phone because it is a no water contact lake, and they love to use their loud speaker. I got the boat back, and I let it it overnight with a fan. This morning I put the batteries in, the esc made the normal power up beeps. When I went to hit the throttle one esc bubbled a little water it looked like, the motors moved a little bit but were very warm 140* and I only did a few pulls of the throttle. It sank to about 6' I would guess. Do you guys think I fried all my electronics?

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I went to the lake yesterday to shake down the genesis and the baby cat, only to discover one battery didn't charge for the genesis. So, I ran the cat for the first time. I just installed new tp motors in the morning. It was running great till I flipped it. I had put bubble wrap floatation but it wasn't enough. Luckly, the lifeguard was probably on his phone because it is a no water contact lake, and they love to use their loud speaker. I let the boat sit overnight with a fan. This morning I put the batteries in, the esc made the normal power up beeps. When I went to hit the throttle one esc bubbled a little water it looked like, the motors moved a little bit but were very warm 140* and I only did a few pulls of the throttle. It sank to about 6' I would guess. Do you guys think I fried all my electronics?

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Glad you were ok retrieving the boat, that can be dangerous...
I would start by swapping in a different RX and see what happens. Those are the most sensitive.
Next would be the servo and ESC.

The motors should be fine at least!
 
Glad you were ok retrieving the boat, that can be dangerous...
I would start by swapping in a different RX and see what happens. Those are the most sensitive.
Next would be the servo and ESC.

The motors should be fine at least!
The servo and receiver seem to be working. I hope you are right about the motors. They are such a pain to put in!
 
The servo and receiver seem to be working. I hope you are right about the motors. They are such a pain to put in!
Each winding of the motor is coated in enamel and you cant get that stuff off unless you scrape it off or use some harsh chemicals. I cant imagine those going bad
Can you turn the motors by hand? They are not locked up by rust or something?
 
Each winding of the motor is coated in enamel and you cant get that stuff off unless you scrape it off or use some harsh chemicals. I cant imagine those going bad
Can you turn the motors by hand? They are not locked up by rust or something?
The motors turn fine by hand. I'm just a little worried bc they got hot from me just bleeping the throttle. A little water/steam or maybe smoke came out of one where the bearing is. I guess I will order some new esc as those are probably cooked.
 
@BIG TUNA
Pull the motor and oil the bearings, else they will seize up in a couple days/weeks, ask me how I know.
I'd open every connection and check for water, put some corrosionX on all connections, incl. receiver.

Whenever mine had water in the hull,
- lost 1 receiver
- servos froze up after 1 week (Waterproof my a$$)
- motor bearings froze up
- motor inside started rusting and damaged/discolored rotor, this is bare metal that likes to rust
Never lost an ESC

Granted, I do run in slightly brackish water and oxidizes a lot faster, but you just have a little more time if it's fresh water. The damage is happening as you sit and wait.
Yes, motors are a pain to remove, I wish they'd all use the OSE special mount and not this standard crap.
I can typically get to it with a flex drive for the hex river but not in all my boats. Bit length and angle are an issue.

Example:
https://www.amazon.com/Maexus-Flexible-Drill-Bit-Extension/dp/B07Q2YPBZX
 
@BIG TUNA
Pull the motor and oil the bearings, else they will seize up in a couple days/weeks, ask me how I know.
I'd open every connection and check for water, put some corrosionX on all connections, incl. receiver.

Whenever mine had water in the hull,
- lost 1 receiver
- servos froze up after 1 week (Waterproof my a$$)
- motor bearings froze up
- motor inside started rusting and damaged/discolored rotor, this is bare metal that likes to rust
Never lost an ESC

Granted, I do run in slightly brackish water and oxidizes a lot faster, but you just have a little more time if it's fresh water. The damage is happening as you sit and wait.
Yes, motors are a pain to remove, I wish they'd all use the OSE special mount and not this standard crap.
I can typically get to it with a flex drive for the hex river but not in all my boats. Bit length and angle are an issue.

Example:
https://www.amazon.com/Maexus-Flexible-Drill-Bit-Extension/dp/B07Q2YPBZX
Cool, thanks for the link. I did spray the front visible motor bearings with wd40 last night. I don't think I can take the motor apart to get to any other bearings? I have the boat propped up so the water goes out towards the front motor bearing. I probably should have put the esc's in rice last night now thinking of it.
 
ARGHHH! WD40 is a bearing destroyer, now you have to clean them thoroughly or replace them, I'd replace them. Throw that stuff (WD40) away, no place in RC world.
It attacks epoxy (destroys ESC) and leaves a film on bearings that will destroy them. No good for wire insulation either but that depends on the type.

Only use CorrosionX on anything electric/electronic. It smells funny but solves many issues, and it's ok on electronics.
 
ARGHHH! WD40 is a bearing destroyer, now you have to clean them thoroughly or replace them, I'd replace them. Throw that stuff (WD40) away, no place in RC world.
It attacks epoxy (destroys ESC) and leaves a film on bearings that will destroy them. No good for wire insulation either but that depends on the type.

Only use CorrosionX on anything electric/electronic. It smells funny but solves many issues, and it's ok on electronics.
DAM! Ok, I had no clue. CorrosionX will be at my doorstep Saturday. Once I get home, I will clean what I can and lube up with some bearing oil till X comes.
 
If you submerged your boat and the inside is completely flooded, you will have to take the motors apart. No way around it other than buying new ones.

Get yourself some pool noodles from the Dollar store and fill up your hull. Cheap and it works.
 
If you submerged your boat and the inside is completely flooded, you will have to take the motors apart. No way around it other than buying new ones.

Get yourself some pool noodles from the Dollar store and fill up your hull. Cheap and it works.
I am not sure how the motors come apart as I don't see any visible screws? I have the two original motors that are also TP's that the bearings are bad on. I guess I can practice trying to take those apart first.
 
I am not sure how the motors come apart as I don't see any visible screws? I have the two original motors that are also TP's that the bearings are bad on. I guess I can practice trying to take those apart first.
The first picture is the 2.5 mm Allen head screws shaft end of motor. The second is the rear end of the can 1.5 mm grub screws .
 
Yes, practice on what is not working.
TP motor screws are clearly visible though?
4 in the front for the front plate. Remove those and wiggle the front loose, 3 little ones in the back (side) that hold in the rear lid, that's how my motor is. By all means, we have tons of experts on this forum and ask in a new section, take pictures and post.

Front bearing should come out by pushing with a screwdriver, rear one (closed lid?) use the bread trick.

Motor bearings can be found on Jim's bearings. Cheap, make sure they are motor bearings though.
Not sure on size, but should be easy to find out. Printed on bearings, or just ask.

https://jimsbearings.com/

I bet I just saved you a couple of hundred $$
 
I am not sure how the motors come apart as I don't see any visible screws? I have the two original motors that are also TP's that the bearings are bad on. I guess I can practice trying to take those apart first.
The first picture is the 2.5 mm Allen head screws shaft end of motor. The second is the rear end of the can 1.5 mm grub screws .
The first picture is the 2.5 mm Allen head screws shaft end of motor. The second is the rear end of the can 1.5 mm grub screws .
The first picture is the 2.5 mm Allen head screws shaft end of motor. The second is the rear end of the can 1.5 mm grub screws .
wont let me upload pictures
 
Yes, practice on what is not working.
TP motor screws are clearly visible though?
4 in the front for the front plate. Remove those and wiggle the front loose, 3 little ones in the back (side) that hold in the rear lid, that's how my motor is. By all means, we have tons of experts on this forum and ask in a new section, take pictures and post.

Front bearing should come out by pushing with a screwdriver, rear one (closed lid?) use the bread trick.

Motor bearings can be found on Jim's bearings. Cheap, make sure they are motor bearings though.
Not sure on size, but should be easy to find out. Printed on bearings, or just ask.

https://jimsbearings.com/

I bet I just saved you a couple of hundred $$
I hope so, I love saving money! Especially since I just bought the motors. Hopefully they are still savable. The boat was 6-8' deep. When I get home, I will check them again. I don't remember seeing any screws, but they had to be assembled somehow.
 
What motor is it? TP ?? number? Should be easy to find pictures and figure it out. Someone has put them together, must be able to get it apart.

You have to get them out anyway, lube the bearings or whatever is visible.
 
What motor is it? TP ?? number? Should be easy to find pictures and figure it out. Someone has put them together, must be able to get it apart.

You have to get them out anyway, lube the bearings or whatever is visible.
They are TP 2040's.
 
This is what I've found.
4 screws from the front, can't tell on the back. Maybe under the sticker?
Use a good set of hex drivers, MIP is preferred. If you strip a screw, you are done.


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Mystery solved, the end bell is screwed on. Love the videos from this guy, but the first minute is truly a WTF moment :ROFLMAO:

Go to about 5:30 min into the video, and he is taking apart a 2030, identical to yours, just shorter.
You owe me a beer 🍻


 
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